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Factory spec for the 2.0L FS engine is 171psi and for a 15 year old car I can’t imagine why you are getting above that on every cylinder. Maybe I’m reading the specs wrong? You’re probably running higher than the 9:1 compression ratio which the engine can handle (FS turbo’s usually shoot for 10:1) but it’s not factory spec. Unless you’re running high comp pistons and turbo setup. The only time I’ve seen those kind of results is from a KL (V6) but you have the 2.0L (I4). Normal results should be around 160-165 for 93-97’s. I think that’s really odd. It’s an anomaly that you might want to look into. I have no idea what it could mean.
Did you install new rods, pistons and/or rings? Only thing I can think of is the piston is traveling too far… for whatever reason. Everyone please keep in mind that I’m only focusing on the compression because it’s out of place. Might not even be connected to his high idle surges. I don’t want to make a big deal out of the compression if it’s a non-issue (and I obviously don’t know either way).
Cylinder 1: Dry 180, Wet 185 psi
Cylinder 2: Dry 175, Wet 180 psi
Cylinder 3: Dry 170, Wet 185 psi
Cylinder 4: Dry 175, Wet 180 psiMazda 626 FS 2.0L General Engine Specs
Quoted From Bad_Mechanic:
I don’t believe I have coil packs. I have wires hooked to an electric distributor.That’s a coilpack.
93-97 FS-DE has a distributor. 98-02 FS-DE has a coilpack (singular). You might be confusing the term “coil on plug” with “coilpack”. No 626 came with coil on plugs, only a distributor or coilpack. A distributor controls the firing mechanically. A coilpack does it electronically via PCM and ECU. Since you have a 98-02 it’s going to be a coilpack… unless you swapped out the engine with an older 93-97 or it’s a GLXi European variant of some sort. Since you’re in FL that’s very unlikely. You have a coilpack.
Breaker bar is a must have for that. I found out the hard way a ratchet won’t provide enough torque. PB Blaster works great. Eric does have a video on exhaust system removal. He was working on his brother’s Integra. I know that video by heart because I watched it 10 times before attempting it.
+1 agreed. The more information for others to help you the better. It’s best to provide too much information than too little because then time is wasted asking questions and you won’t get a quick answer. I find it most helpful when peopl
Change out the valve cover gasket to address the oil leaking onto the plugs. The plug seals are included on the gasket. If that’s not sealing correctly you will get a bit of oil slipping down into the plug hole. Check your PCV valve and as others have mentioned make sure you get that fuel pressure tested. If your injectors can keep up with the load due to decreased pressure it could cause issues as higher speeds. Still haven’t ruled out a coilpack issue so keep that in mind.
I wouldn’t recommend removing the injectors as the grommets tend to get brittle and getting new ones would be a whole new hassle. The injector clips also have a tendency to snap as demonstrated in one of my videos.
Does this condition only happen at speed or also while at idle? There are a couple things it could be but start with the basics like a potential misfire. Check the plugs and wires for signs of spark loss (arc’ing). A vacuum leak could cause that but you’d probably also have serious lack of power and would feel like lag (latency between acceleration and when you actually start to accelerate). If the car misses shift points or changes gear erratically that could simply be low ATF. Our cars fool quite a lot of mechanics when they get low on ATF they exhibit the same exact symptoms of a failing transmission so keep an eye out for that. Pulling codes would be a smart thing to do even if there is no check engine light on (free at any AutoZone).
You can drive without overdrive as long as you don’t plan on going faster than 55 mph. It does put more stress on the transmission as the engine braking is harder (acts more like a standard transmission). With the symptoms you are getting I wouldn’t recommend turning off overdrive right now. You’ll want to baby it until you can get this issue diagnosed.
Just FYI everyone, the Mazda 626 uses the same transmission as the Ford CD4E except it’s renamed to Mazda’s designation of LA4A-EL. Same exact transmission. The 626 and MX-6 use a lot of Ford parts because… it was built by Ford in Michigan. 😉
Check the spark plugs for signs of wear. If it’s a voltage leak it could happen anywhere from the plugs to the coil.
Wiring diagrams have the primer to them in the front of the booklet. At least they do for the 626 wiring diagram booklets (which is a separate booklet from the service manual). If you are beginning to learn wiring diagrams it’s best to have that primer you can flip to. Definitely cuts down on the learning curve.
In case anyone wants to check out the factory manual… the heater section is from pages 15-126 to 15-138
http://www.pmx626.info/index.php?dir=Ma … 988+WSM%2FYeah guys the 626, MX-6, Probe (all related) don’t have bleeder valves just as a heads up.
Sounds like you’ve got quite the gaggle of issues going on there TheArete. You’re right no sense in trying to narrow it down when there are so many issues you’re finding. Just knock ’em out one by one and eventually you’ll get closer to the culprit. RockAuto is a really good resource for 626 parts by the way. If you need any pages from the factory manual for the diagnostic processes just let me know.
I really LOVE this idea. It will allow the guys that aren’t so great with diagnostics to have an interactive learning session. That’s one of my favorite things about the Real Fixes Real Fast channel on youtube. I don’t even pay attention to the comments until I’m done watching all the videos in the series because I don’t want to spoil what I’d really do in that situation. They should make a CLUE board game for mechanics.
Those are all awesome suggestions. Only other thing I can think of is the accelerator arm rubbing through a wire.
Welcome to the ETCG forums. Your topic sounds very familiar from one posted over at Mazda626.net. If we couldn’t help you over there then the guys here are definitely the next step. They helped me after all. 🙂
All Mazda 626/MX-6/Ford Probe 2.0L (FS engine) have a non-interference engine. Mechanics love to try and tell FS owners they have an interference engine. The only 626 ever made that had an interference design were 2.2L European versions (to my knowledge) but those weren’t FS they were F2. From my experience they do it as an attempt to sell new timing belts even when they aren’t needed so take that advice with a grain of salt when you hear it. It’s either ignorance or purposeful dishonesty. Either way it sucks to hear a mechanic try to convince you that you’ve got an interference engine when you know you don’t. It’s not confidence builder in their abilities I can attest to that. Sounds like you know what kind of shape your belt is in so I’ll assume you know when is a good time to change that out.
Fluctuating idle could be attributed to an air leak, PCV valve, throttle position sensor, IAC, or worst case a PCM. 99% of the time it’s not the PCM on the 626 just FYI. We have really good PCM’s. Running rich and other symptoms you are getting after the car is warmed up might be an O2 sensor. You can pull some readings from that. It should be switching as most O2 sensors do between 0 and 1 volt. You said you have a CEL but did you check the codes? You have a 97 so that’s OBD-II you can get them checked at any AutoZone for free. Have you tried cleaning your MAF?
As for the rest of the symptoms I’ll let someone else take a gander at that stuff. That’s about the best I can help on that. I have the factory manual if anyone needs specs.