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Hey thanks for the reply.
I have a vacuum pump, how much vacuum should I apply to it? Assume I should observe that it doesn’t drop? Do I need to press the brake pedal,
I’ve emailed them to find out!
If they say it is not suitable then I will be having some strong words with the parts store!
That’s interesting stuff… I’ve had no problem using Ceratec on a few other cars. (not to mention the other 3 calipers).
It seems to be the go-to in the UK… the average mechanic seems to leave the slide pins alone during a brake job. (as witnessed after inspecting my friend’s car who had his pads and discs replaced at an independent garage). Other than that, a few people have said they use red rubber grease for caliper pins.
I’m not convinced the issue is Ceratec. My new caliper was sliding freely and I haven’t removed the pins to see what grease is being used in that, but it is definitely not seized.
So… time to revive this thread.
The noise came back soon after I posted on here that it was fixed.
I ended up replacing the caliper, once again, it was fine for a week – then the noise came back.
So far I’ve replaced every brake component in the front left apart from the brake hose.
I’ve swapped and changed various combinations of pad, disc, hardware, etc. to no avail.
I’m tempted to condemn the the hub/bearing/spindle assembly and find a used one of those to swap in.
Unless anyone has a better idea?
I got the stuff. Its branded as Mintex / Textar / Pagid Ceratec and claims to be metal-free.
Instructions:
Clean slide bushes, holder and all caliper to pad contact points and lubricate.It looks like regular grease to me but I’ll find out once I get it out of the tube. As said, I’m prepared to replace anything that is damaged in the process.
I’m not convinced on silicone paste, I know ETCG has had success with it but I can’t get brand he uses at reasonable time/cost. I can get Millers Oils Silicone grease but it says its for lubricating plastic and polythene water pipes and O ring assembly etc. There is nothing to suggest it is suitable for use with brake systems.
Yeah it has been standard practice… just using the wrong grease. I’ve bought some brake lubricant that says its suitable for slide pins, its a ceramic lube and a respected OEM brand (in Europe anyway) so I’ll see how it goes. I will clean them out with brake clean. If the rubber goes bad its fine I’ll replace that too. But till then, the CV grease is doing a good enough job of lubricating it.
Thanks for the help guys, if anyone was wondering…
I took the slide pins off and found them to have no grease!! I used some silicone lube last time I did the pads but I think the product I used wasn’t thick enough, it was really more of a liquid grease in a tube rather than a grease or paste. I put CV Lithium moly grease for now, (I figure CVs get hot and the CV boot is rubber so its similar enough) and went for a hard drive, the sound is gone!!! I have also ordered a specific ceramic brake grease which should be better suited for this use.
@Bonnieman
Neither do I, just running out of ideas… the shims are in good condition but I never replaced them (they are about half the cost of the pads). Maybe I should do that first. When I put the caliper back on I always spin the wheel and make sure nothing is making contact. There are spring clips on the rear calipers, all present and look good but not brand new. The fronts don’t have them.No signs of anything making contact with the wheels.
Thanks for the replies.
@Bonnieman I will try to isolate it further next time I have a buddy with me. I’m fairly certain its coming from the front left.I’m ruling out the pads because the noise happened since I bought the car. I’ve changed the pads twice since then thinking it could be because aftermarket pads (a brand I was unfamiliar with) were fitted. First I replaced just pads, then when the noise persisted, I replaced the discs (rotors) as well.
The original pads had even wear on them, I also lubed the slide pins and cleaned the calipers with a wire brush. I didn’t replace the shims but cleaned under them and put a light coat of copper grease where the shim touches the caliper and where the pad touches the shim.
@451Mopar good ear, the exhaust is blowing slightly, I have new full exhaust replacement sitting in my garage but I’m prioritising my time with the braking noise as the exhaust is structurally secure for now. The noise is definitely rotational, the number of grinds decreases as I slow down. Its quite rhythmic in that sense.
@Nodak81 The first thing I did to try to eliminate the noise was service the brakes, including removing the front/rear discs (rotors) and clean everything and adjust the handbrake shoes. (It has a handbrake drum/shoe inside the rear discs.)Thanks for the replies once again, I’m tempted to get replacement calipers from the junkyard and rebuild them and fit those but as you can see I also need to address the exhaust (which started leaking a week after owning the car lol).
I just replaced the discs there is no pulsating. No movement in the wheel or ARB, the end links are new.
Yes, I’m in the UK. The requirements are dependent on the vehicle and its age.
The blue coolant light only goes out when the coolant is up to temp, it takes much longer for the oil and other parts of the engine to get up to operating temp. Normally it goes out after a few minutes of starting the engine, unless its really cold.
It is an OBD2 car, the spark plugs look healthy, I replaced them around 10,000 miles ago with OEM Densos. I’m not sure what to make of the OBD2 scan data though, they must be within tolerance because the check engine light isn’t on. Shell V-power may be a gimmick but I figure it can’t do any harm.
Why would clamping the rear lines make any difference? I would need to fashion something to clamp them with as I’ve never felt the need to do things that way, also if they are actually damaged, clamping them might just finish them off. Having said that the hoses do look fine, I’ve seen enough old cars to know when the hoses need replacing, most of the time you can hear them expanding if you brake hard whilst stopped.
As I said, its the “performance” model with disc brakes all around so no drums to adjust.
I put steel braided lines on my other car and it didn’t make that much difference under normal driving conditions so I’m reluctant as they are expensive and hard to find for the rear disc models.
I might consider replacing the lines with new OEM ones but I don’t know if I should try the MC first.
“Rode hard, put away wet” <— LOL
I don't blame you for not treating that car with the best ETCG service. (not that I would be in any position to blame) The owner is flipping it so enough said.
This is interesting for me because I rarely have someone else work on my car but when I take it for its yearly inspection I wash it, vacuum and clean the interior so that it's absolutely the best it can be and presentable for the person who has to sit in it and work on it. Obviously, I keep on top of servicing and maintaining the car so that extra thing might make the inspection guy look at my car in a better way.
I want to make everything as easy as possible as far as putting the seat all the way back for when they have to get in. I feel like this applies to any industry, if you make things pleasant for whoever is working for you they are likely to do a better job.I wonder how the owner of that TL feels when they see the videos though. Are they on the forum?
Eric, back when you were working at a shop or even now, if someone were to bring their car to you for a particular service and ask you do torque everything to spec when you do the work and do everything "by the book" (and they offered to pay extra for the time it takes) would you have done it? Question open to all professionals.