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If I remember correctly, you can short fan sensor to turn on fan the whole time. There is a two pins plug near radiator. Unplug it and short two pins (a paper clip would work). Then, the fan will turn on whenever you have fan turn on.
If I remember correctly, you can short fan sensor to turn on fan the whole time. There is a two pins plug near radiator. Unplug it and short two pins (a paper clip would work). Then, the fan will turn on whenever you have fan turn on.
I drove this morning and didn’t see any problem. I think the problem is fixed and it is ignition switch contacts. Hope this will help others.
I drove this morning and didn’t see any problem. I think the problem is fixed and it is ignition switch contacts. Hope this will help others.
Yesterday on the way home. It stalled again on the street. I cranked and it started and stalled immediately. I started and hold key at crank position, engine keeps running. This is similar problem like I had with ignition switch failure before. Then, I used right hand to hold key in crank position to drive home. This morning I took off ignition switch and take it apart. There isn’t anything obviously bad, but I know it must be contacts problem. I soldered all flat contacts and put everything back. Car can be started right up and running like normal. I will drive it for a few days and post back if it still stalls.
Yesterday on the way home. It stalled again on the street. I cranked and it started and stalled immediately. I started and hold key at crank position, engine keeps running. This is similar problem like I had with ignition switch failure before. Then, I used right hand to hold key in crank position to drive home. This morning I took off ignition switch and take it apart. There isn’t anything obviously bad, but I know it must be contacts problem. I soldered all flat contacts and put everything back. Car can be started right up and running like normal. I will drive it for a few days and post back if it still stalls.
The 1st thing comes to my mind is ignition switch. I had this part changed 5 years 10 months ago using after market part. It had 59K miles on it. The previous ignition switch was from original and used it for ~19 years with 191K miles on it. The symptom of original switch failure was that I can start engine right away, but stall immediately if I let key go. If I start engine and hold key in II position (starter keeps engage), engine won’t stall. This after market ignition switch acts a little differences. Although it stalled for the first few times, other times works like normal. Is it about to go bad with contacts inside switch? Want to get opinions from other experts who have this type of experiences.
The 1st thing comes to my mind is ignition switch. I had this part changed 5 years 10 months ago using after market part. It had 59K miles on it. The previous ignition switch was from original and used it for ~19 years with 191K miles on it. The symptom of original switch failure was that I can start engine right away, but stall immediately if I let key go. If I start engine and hold key in II position (starter keeps engage), engine won’t stall. This after market ignition switch acts a little differences. Although it stalled for the first few times, other times works like normal. Is it about to go bad with contacts inside switch? Want to get opinions from other experts who have this type of experiences.
You may go to this dealer web site https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/PartsSearch.jsp to check your car part number and description.
You may go to this dealer web site https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/PartsSearch.jsp to check your car part number and description.
Checked oil leak again carefully this past weekend. Found there are several places leaking engine oil and most of them from oil pan gasket. Re-done oil pan gasket. This time I put thin layer of RTV every where between gasket/pan and gasket/engine block. Then, hand tie all screws, wait 24 hours to let RTV dry, finally tie all screws for another half turn without using torque wrench. The manufacture specification is 120 in-lb, I tested it and they weren’t even 10 in-lb after installation. However, they don’t seem leak engine oil after test driving.
There is still at least a place is leaking oil around oil filter. I changed oil filter and hand tie it. I still saw oil drip right under oil filter. I traced oil path back. I also saw dripping oil under a hanging electric wire cable on top of oil filter about 1″ away from engine block. I can’t find any place that could make oil drip on to this cable. There isn’t sign of leaking valve cover and I cleaned PCV valve. Are there any other places around oil filter could cause engine oil leaking that I should pay attention to?
Checked oil leak again carefully this past weekend. Found there are several places leaking engine oil and most of them from oil pan gasket. Re-done oil pan gasket. This time I put thin layer of RTV every where between gasket/pan and gasket/engine block. Then, hand tie all screws, wait 24 hours to let RTV dry, finally tie all screws for another half turn without using torque wrench. The manufacture specification is 120 in-lb, I tested it and they weren’t even 10 in-lb after installation. However, they don’t seem leak engine oil after test driving.
There is still at least a place is leaking oil around oil filter. I changed oil filter and hand tie it. I still saw oil drip right under oil filter. I traced oil path back. I also saw dripping oil under a hanging electric wire cable on top of oil filter about 1″ away from engine block. I can’t find any place that could make oil drip on to this cable. There isn’t sign of leaking valve cover and I cleaned PCV valve. Are there any other places around oil filter could cause engine oil leaking that I should pay attention to?
Replaced oil pan gasket twice for the last two weekend and still has oil leak. I followed repair manual use one piece rubber gasket, put a little bead on corners and curve line, and tighten nuts crisscross pattern. The only difference is torque. The torque required for my car is 120 in-lb (equivalent to 10 ft-lb). The first gasket is ITM #09-90923. Tighten to 120 in-lb, filled oil right after, and test drive. It causes oil leak. Therefore, I tighten it more to 127 in-lb (saw rubber gasket was squeezed out on edge). It still had leak, but got a little bit better. The second gasket is FEL-PRO PermaDry #OS30632R. This gasket looks a little bit thicker than original gasket from Honda. Tighten to only 95 in-lb and still see a little bit of gasket is squeezed out, leave car for 24 hours to let RTV dry, filled oil and test drive. It is still leaking oil. The oil pan has flat surface and two bumps next to each screw hole to maintain a minimum space between engine block and pan. What did I do wrong and what is the proper torque and procedures to install oil pan gasket without leak?
Replaced oil pan gasket twice for the last two weekend and still has oil leak. I followed repair manual use one piece rubber gasket, put a little bead on corners and curve line, and tighten nuts crisscross pattern. The only difference is torque. The torque required for my car is 120 in-lb (equivalent to 10 ft-lb). The first gasket is ITM #09-90923. Tighten to 120 in-lb, filled oil right after, and test drive. It causes oil leak. Therefore, I tighten it more to 127 in-lb (saw rubber gasket was squeezed out on edge). It still had leak, but got a little bit better. The second gasket is FEL-PRO PermaDry #OS30632R. This gasket looks a little bit thicker than original gasket from Honda. Tighten to only 95 in-lb and still see a little bit of gasket is squeezed out, leave car for 24 hours to let RTV dry, filled oil and test drive. It is still leaking oil. The oil pan has flat surface and two bumps next to each screw hole to maintain a minimum space between engine block and pan. What did I do wrong and what is the proper torque and procedures to install oil pan gasket without leak?