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Also, I contacted a Nissan dealer with the VIN and all recalls were completed…
So this car was towed to another mechanic before I could work on it again, and he said the timing chain is messed up. That’s all the info I got. Now, if the chain had jumped a notch or two, wouldn’t the car have consistent starting issues, whether it’s hot or cold? The thing is is that the starting issues with this car are COMPLETELY random. This mechanic is also recommending total engine replacement. If the chain had broke and the valves kissed the pistons I could see it. But I know that’s not the issue as the last time I worked on it it ALMOST started.
So would a problem such as a small evap leak cause these major starting issues?
I did get a code, something along the lines of a very minor leak in the evap system, but as I said, attempting startup with the cap off made no difference. And I’ve never known an evap system to cause problems like this…
Sorry for taking so long to reply.
The cars run perfectly once started, and the issue seems to be pretty random. And the Chevy is MUCH less of a problem than the Grand Am. So I’m thinking the 3400’s must have had a common issue all along to cause this and it just got progressively worse with each model year. I’m just wondering if anyone knew what this issue might be, if its any one thing or if there’s a million different things it could be in each case. And neither vehicle has a CEL nor any DTCs in memory.
Hey I was wondering is there a drain plug on the block that I should pull to help get all the junk out? If so where is it?
Also for the reverse flush kit it says install in the heater inlet hose. Which one is that?
Thanks everyone!
I am getting the reverse flush kit. So it would be wise to run a flush before starting repairs?
Thanks again for all the help everyone!
In the interest of planning, couple more questions for ya.
Would it be of any advantage to flush the system out without starting the engine before I take things apart and then flush again after job? Or should I just wait till after? My thinking was if I don’t flush before tear down that it’ll be a totally disgusting mess taking things apart.
Also, after all this oil has gone through the cooling system, is it likely that it had any effect on the radiator hoses? Just wondering how much I should really replace after all this trauma to the engine.
I have had to drive this car this way half an hour each way on the highway every day of this week till the parts arrive and I have the time to repair it. What’s the worst that could’ve happened to it? I’m hoping just a really messy cooling system that has to be flushed multiple times?
Thanks ALOT for that info! Makes me feel much better! And no, there is no evidence of coolant in the oil, just a LOT of oil in the coolant! Like I said, I’ll figure it out when I get it apart but everything I’ve read says the same as you: a cracked anything on these engines is very unlikely. Probably just wanted to charge me for the short block and engine replacement…
Thanks to everyone for their input!
I have a few more questions. I have never had a cam in block engine before. So does that mean that if I have to pull the heads, there is no timing belt/chain to mess with?
Also, lets say I decide not to do the head gaskets right now and they go in 20,000 miles. Would the new intake gaskets that I’m going to install be re-usable? Or am I looking at buying everything all over again?
The guy I had look at it to help me confirm that it is oil in the coolant said that it is likely a cracked block or head because of the fact that it would be hard to be pushing oil into the coolant when the cooling system is under pressure. I know that’s something I’ll have to figure out once I take it apart this weekend, but what’s everyone’s general opinion on that school of thought?
So the transmission on these cars uses the engine sensors to determine when to shift? Which ones does it rely on?
Thanks for the reply!
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