[Dan]

UPDATE 2: I checked the strut and motor mounts and they all check out. If I’m not mistaken I think that the lower ball joints have to be the culprit. I have checked everything else, but I haven’t jacked up the control arms to test. By deduction all that is left has to be the LBJ.

When all other possibilities have been eliminated, what your left with, however unlikely must be the truth.

[Dan]

UPDATE:
I went to the car and started shaking and kicking, got my hands on everything under the car. I couldn’t find anything. I tightened the strut fork bolt and nut a little more but everything appears snug. I got the wife in the car and found a rough road. She finally heard my popping sound, but she said it’s coming from the dash. I hear it on both sides, but don’t feel it anymore. She felt around and said that she can feel a knock around the edge of the dash. I couldn’t feel it on my side though. After I left her at work I took the car for an extended driving it like I stole it session.
Same thing couldn’t feel it but it does kind of sound like it’s behind the dash on both sides.
I doubt something would be hitting the dashboard on both sides, only when running over cracks in the road. That sounds a little farfetched.

I got a hold of the struts and they aren’t loose or anything, at least not by hand. I’m wondering if I’m hearing the mounts though.
I drove around my apartment parking lot because it is really torn up and recorded the sound again.
I have the camera pointed at where it sounds like it’s coming from and this time you can clearly hear it.
https://youtu.be/gNZSpUhDPYc

Could there be a problem with the strut mounts that isn’t showing through the struts?
Other than that my only other idea is maybe my axles are bad.
Any other ideas?

[Dan]

Thanks nightflyr, I’ll check the entire front end, bolts, bushings, axles, struts and links. I’ll get some muscle under there and try to find something loose.
If anybody has any other advice or anything, please let me know. At this point I will check everything.

If there is no other advice I will go off what I have and post back with an update.

[Dan]

That’s why I disregarded the axles the first time. The click only happens while I’m goings straight down the road, quiet while turning. I even ripped through a corner trying to find out if the turns would make it happen. The old axles didn’t make sounds while turning either but the click was around the inner joint area before I replaced them.

The sounds are by the tires now, I’m thinking the lower ball joints are bad, but not showing any play.

The wheel bearings don’t feel bad when spinning the wheels by hand, and still no play. Could be wrong about that too.

I will check the axles after work, struts as well.
I am hoping that if I grab the knuckle I can reproduce the sound.

Anything else I should check, could it be the sway bar or something not connected to the steering knuckle?

[Dan]

I don’t think the axle took any damage, we pulled it off and looked at the joints, they didn’t make any sounds, and didn’t have any play in the joint. I’m not saying that it is good, I just don’t think they are the cause. The clicking is out by the wheels though.

The struts are clearly old, but they handle the old school push test and pass.
Is there another way to test the struts?

I am also going to try and tighten the bills that have been removed, in all the upper control arm anchor bolts, and the strut fork bolt and see if they are my issue as well.

Other than that I’m lost, when the suspension gets compressed the sound doesn’t happen, but when it’s just holding the car there is a popping sound.

I’m not disregarding the axles yet either, the sound I am hearing now is different from the one on the old axles.
Is the a way to see if the axles are at fault?
Last time I couldn’t figure out out until one broke.

[Dan]

I would check your exhaust flow first.
I assume there is no CEL on you said there were no codes.

[Dan]

Have you checked the cat?
Restricted exhaust will prevent cars from acting right.

Also is your car an auto or manual?
I may have missed that part

[Dan]

A Google search on p1298 came up with a few answers I think

Possible causes

– Faulty Electronic Load Detector Unit
– Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
– Electronic Load Detector Unit harness is open or shorted
– Electronic Load Detector Unit circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: http://www.autocodes.com/p1298_honda.html#ixzz44uZMRrgG

This will tell you about it
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/21-i-c-e-electrical/159859-meet-your-eld-electrical-load-detector.html

I would stay by checking the wiring, that seems like the easy first thing to check.

Hope I helped

[Dan]

No advice on how to proceed?

I am trying to get all possibilities, but I don’t know what would cause the engine to run poorly after a warm startup, then be perfectly fine 2 minutes later.

Any advice would be great.

[Dan]

That was my first thought too. TB is clean, IAC is working. the car does start and run and hold a steady idle it’s throwing me off. Almost feels like the engine floods. I almost wonder if the car is stuck in open loop, but I don’t really know since it’s a 95.

How can I determine if that is the case?

[Dan]

Check the maf, it may be dirty or out of range.
Looking at your fuel trim it screams for fuel, however your data doesn’t show throttle position. Without that I can’t say for sure, but in my experience if the car goes lean under load then the air isn’t being measured accurately.

[Dan]

If there is no crank, and no click, but the car runs then it sounds like power is not getting to the starter.
The cable may show 12 volts to the starter at rest but when the key is turned, only part of that voltage actually reaches the starter.

I may be overlooking something but since the car runs and starts with a jump, then all aspects of starting are there.

[Dan]

Do a voltage drop test on the battery cables. There maybe enough current to keep the car going, but not enough to turn the starter.

[Dan]

Also check voltage drop in the cables. It the cable is taking too much voltage, it will make the starter spin slow, if at all.

[Dan]

The warranty is lifetime on dralast (autozone) and master pro (O’Reilly). They have the cheapest, I just don’t want another axle to break of they are cheaply made.
I have heard good and bad things about Napa Max Drive products as well, but are quite a bit more than the other two.
O’Reilly also sells import direct for around the same price as napa, I have never used any import direct parts. Are they decent?

I know that I’m probably going to get crap either way, just curious on what crap smells less lol.

I’m willing to spend a little more of it means getting a decent part, but honda wants way to much.

[Author]

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