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Thanks nightflyr
I read online that some mfgs say it’s normal. I don’t buy it either. I used to have a 400,000 mile accord that didn’t burn any oil, and my current car doesn’t burn any either.
I was thinking compression test to rule out the rings. My thought is if the car isn’t burning it at startup, and it has good compression then the PCV has to be failing, although I may be over simplifying it.
So pull the valve and see if it rattles?
I’m just trying to confirm if the engine is bad or not.
Cool man thanks for the advice. I’m probably going to pull an engine from the junkyard before I buy the car to make sure I can pull it.
Ya I was just curious if it would work, since it’s coming out and the pick and pull around me had 8 accords and 4 civics.
One last question, since the cars a stick, how much work would it be to use an auto engine?
Is it just swap the flex plate for the flywheel?
Also any advice, tips or tricks would be appreciated.
I haven’t bought the car yet, but if I can land it for 300 bucks or so and f’ it up, the junkyard will give me most of my money back.I know it’s “possible”, I was just wondering if it would fit somewhat easily and work. Some Honda’s are, just a curiosity question really.
Thanks
Thanks for the advice, i havent checked pressure, but considering some 14 months of being open it’s probably flat.
Kia checked it then saying that the compressor was fine, but i couldn’t afford the work, in fact i can barely afford the consenser alone.
Since i already know what went bad, it doesn’t make sense to give kia almost 800 dollars to fix it.
Unfortunately, i don’t trust any shops around here, i had one tell me my brakes were bad the day after i replaced them, and another refused to touch it because it has hail damage. I could take it to Kia, but the diagnosis would wipe out my repair funds.
Final question for this issue
I know hondas have a vss problem, I can’t afford a new one (70 bucks aftermarket)
What are the odds that one from the junkyard will work?
At 5 bucks it’s affordable, but not if I have to buy 15 of them hoping one works.Darn I was hoping I found my rich condition.
Would the VSS cause my speedo and odometer problem?
It’s a standard so shifting is unaffected.I haven’t yet. I was hoping after replacing the parts I have it would fix it, not completely but it did help.
I thought the alignment guy. Could tell me but he couldn’t see anything either.
I’m guessing a collision shop could tell me why, or honda.
How much should I expect to pay at a collision shop, if you know.I had that problem in my 95 Accord. Turned out the upper control arms were swapped.
I don’t know about your car thoughHow exactly do I check the sensors, just a standard continuity test?
I don’t want to mess something up and blow the airbags that are in the car.I changed the inner tie rods, I was really sad to see that the rack was leaking. I think somebody here suggested that too. I think the inner rods were bad anyways.
Car drives like $#!+ now, need an alignment bad. I drove it from my moms where I worked on it and you can hear the tires scrubbing, but I think my sound is gone.
Thanks everybody for the help, I’m going to have to find a rack now.I have a question.
If I only jack up the passenger side of my car and leave the driver side down, key in my pocket, there should be no steering movement, correct?I did just that and this is what I recorded.
https://youtu.be/yM7rvIQXq7sBad tie rod, or rack?
Steering doesn’t bind or anything.
[quote=”ellesmere” post=163333]Hi, firstly I’m not a mechanic but I love looking after my cars and I do what ever work I can on them.
So be gentle with me if my suggestion seems silly.
I’m in Australia and I have a 2005 Mitsubishi 380 with 340000 kilometers (Galant in the U.S. and both cars are almost identical).About a year back I had some front end work done. New camber pins, new struts, new bushes where required, new brakes and rotors.
After all this work I started getting a tapping in the front and strangely not over heavy bumps but only on the slight minor bumps.
I took it back to the people that did the work and they couldn’t find anything wrong but replaced the stabilizer bar bushes because they seemed
somewhat dry.
Still made the noise but though I suspected maybe drive shafts I was assured by everyone the shafts were fine.
I was also assured the car was safe though no one could figure out where the tapping was coming from.A couple of weeks ago I mentioned this to a mechanic friend who I did a favor for and he offered to chuck it up on the hoist for a look.
He found the tapping noise in less than a minute.
He pointed me to both sets of front brake pads just floating loose in the calipers just floating around tapping the mechanism as I drove along.
Apparently my pads not only need clips but need to be glued with a special brake pad adhesive. He took the pads out, applied the glue and the clips and, voila, the noise was gone.
It was driving me nuts for over a year, many mechanics had inspected everything under-car and found nothing then this guy found the problem in ten seconds and fixed it in five minutes.
Like I said I’m no mechanic so I’m just offering a suggestion but sometimes it’s some small silly thing that causes the most trouble.[/quote]Thanks for the info I will have to check that out if I can’t find it.
I have another update.
I saw Eric’s video about diagnosing suspension noises, and noticed that I didn’t jack up by the control arms to properly check the lower ball joints, well I did just that a moment ago.
Jacked at the lower arm until the tire lifted off of the ground enough to get my hands under the tire. There was still no play, but I did hear a clunk!
I looked underneath as best as I could while making the clunk, but couldn’t see anything.What could cause a clunk when jacked by the control arms, but not clunk when only jacked at the pinch welds?
[quote=”ellesmere” post=163333]Hi, firstly I’m not a mechanic but I love looking after my cars and I do what ever work I can on them.
So be gentle with me if my suggestion seems silly.
I’m in Australia and I have a 2005 Mitsubishi 380 with 340000 kilometers (Galant in the U.S. and both cars are almost identical).About a year back I had some front end work done. New camber pins, new struts, new bushes where required, new brakes and rotors.
After all this work I started getting a tapping in the front and strangely not over heavy bumps but only on the slight minor bumps.
I took it back to the people that did the work and they couldn’t find anything wrong but replaced the stabilizer bar bushes because they seemed
somewhat dry.
Still made the noise but though I suspected maybe drive shafts I was assured by everyone the shafts were fine.
I was also assured the car was safe though no one could figure out where the tapping was coming from.A couple of weeks ago I mentioned this to a mechanic friend who I did a favor for and he offered to chuck it up on the hoist for a look.
He found the tapping noise in less than a minute.
He pointed me to both sets of front brake pads just floating loose in the calipers just floating around tapping the mechanism as I drove along.
Apparently my pads not only need clips but need to be glued with a special brake pad adhesive. He took the pads out, applied the glue and the clips and, voila, the noise was gone.
It was driving me nuts for over a year, many mechanics had inspected everything under-car and found nothing then this guy found the problem in ten seconds and fixed it in five minutes.
Like I said I’m no mechanic so I’m just offering a suggestion but sometimes it’s some small silly thing that causes the most trouble.[/quote]Thanks for the info I will have to check that out if I can’t find it.
I have another update.
I saw Eric’s video about diagnosing suspension noises, and noticed that I didn’t jack up by the control arms to properly check the lower ball joints, well I did just that a moment ago.
Jacked at the lower arm until the tire lifted off of the ground enough to get my hands under the tire. There was still no play, but I did hear a clunk!
I looked underneath as best as I could while making the clunk, but couldn’t see anything.What could cause a clunk when jacked by the control arms, but not clunk when jacked at the pinch welds?