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IMO I wouldn’t go back to that shop. If you do I would specify to them not to touch it except for plugging the cable in and the brake/tire check.
I borrowed one of my friends code readers and drove around while monitoring the RPMs. The idle seemed really low, even after the battery change. So I opened up the throttle body and cleaned it, also replaced the air filter, now it seems to be idling a lot better but haven’t had a chance to test it again against cold weather. If throttle body cleaning happens to be to no avail fuel filter will be next.
The new battery did fix one thing though, when it stalled shortly after it started right back up. Been three days since throttle body cleaning and no stalling since then.
I borrowed one of my friends code readers and drove around while monitoring the RPMs. The idle seemed really low, even after the battery change. So I opened up the throttle body and cleaned it, also replaced the air filter, now it seems to be idling a lot better but haven’t had a chance to test it again against cold weather. If throttle body cleaning happens to be to no avail fuel filter will be next.
The new battery did fix one thing though, when it stalled shortly after it started right back up. Been three days since throttle body cleaning and no stalling since then.
Also alternator seems to be working great and puts out between 14-15v steady, depending on engine rpm.
Also alternator seems to be working great and puts out between 14-15v steady, depending on engine rpm.
Was able to get it back to the house but had to jump start it. On the way up it really struggled. I had the pedal mashed and it was just cutting in and out as if I was intermittently punching the throttle. My dad thinks it could be the battery, and wants to replace it anyway since it’s still on the factory original battery. I don’t think that’s the issue but it could be that simple.
Tomorrow I may play around with it since I’m stuck home with a possible MRSA infection. I looked tonight and it looks like the fuel rail doesn’t have a stem on it to diagnose the fuel part like my older Jeep has. It has new spark plugs, and the wires come directly from what looks to be some sort of computer controller, wires look fine and don’t seem to be rotted or broken. No check engine light and no codes either. I bet the thing will nag though if one tiny problem with the emissions happens.
Don’t know if it could cause something like this but the ABS light has been on for a while, could that screw with the engine electronics and cause this sort of stuff?
Was able to get it back to the house but had to jump start it. On the way up it really struggled. I had the pedal mashed and it was just cutting in and out as if I was intermittently punching the throttle. My dad thinks it could be the battery, and wants to replace it anyway since it’s still on the factory original battery. I don’t think that’s the issue but it could be that simple.
Tomorrow I may play around with it since I’m stuck home with a possible MRSA infection. I looked tonight and it looks like the fuel rail doesn’t have a stem on it to diagnose the fuel part like my older Jeep has. It has new spark plugs, and the wires come directly from what looks to be some sort of computer controller, wires look fine and don’t seem to be rotted or broken. No check engine light and no codes either. I bet the thing will nag though if one tiny problem with the emissions happens.
Don’t know if it could cause something like this but the ABS light has been on for a while, could that screw with the engine electronics and cause this sort of stuff?
The vehicle I’m driving now has been in a collision. The issue is that the tires wear unevenly, and have to be rotated more often. Also I’ve noticed that it pulls to the right a little, and I do have it aligned occasionally.