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Hmmmm, what state do you live in? Most allow for so many monitors to be incomplete depending upon she of vehicle. I believe, but may be wrong, that prior to 2005 you are allowed 3. You may not have driven enough for all to pass.
I would maybe clean MAF from those readings. How long have you driven since resetting ecm? You’re just trying to get monitors to clear? You’ll need to take a little drive probably just a run up interstate and back may do it. You have to let ecm see that certain parameters have been met for monitors to clear.
I would maybe clean MAF from those readings. How long have you driven since resetting ecm? You’re just trying to get monitors to clear? You’ll need to take a little drive probably just a run up interstate and back may do it. You have to let ecm see that certain parameters have been met for monitors to clear.
Can you post same info @2500rpm?
Can you post same info @2500rpm?
February 15, 2014 at 4:19 am in reply to: 2004 Chrysler Sebring slight misfire and vibration #574880Do you have a smoke machine? If so smoke away. Have you checked fuel delivery? I’ve had injectors act like a misfire. What do fuel trims look like?
February 15, 2014 at 4:19 am in reply to: 2004 Chrysler Sebring slight misfire and vibration #581543Do you have a smoke machine? If so smoke away. Have you checked fuel delivery? I’ve had injectors act like a misfire. What do fuel trims look like?
As bad as I hate to second the vote it may be the rack. Since you have a second pump coming, go for it and hope. I went through 3 reman pumps on a grand prix gt once to get a good one. I’ve also seen Pontiac gt cars with same issue that ended up being the control valve inside the rack for variable assist being bad and causing the same symptoms you describe. I hope you got a bad pump though. I’ve been experiencing a terrible time as of late with reman components. I’ll keep my fingers crossed that you are too.
As bad as I hate to second the vote it may be the rack. Since you have a second pump coming, go for it and hope. I went through 3 reman pumps on a grand prix gt once to get a good one. I’ve also seen Pontiac gt cars with same issue that ended up being the control valve inside the rack for variable assist being bad and causing the same symptoms you describe. I hope you got a bad pump though. I’ve been experiencing a terrible time as of late with reman components. I’ll keep my fingers crossed that you are too.
Now back to the meter deal. You’re hoping to find a draw that is less than 1A that being equal to 1000mA, of course. So the spec you stated on your meter seems to more than meet standards. Good news! Good buy! lol This also goes back to why I like the test I mentioned its quicker (once you’re used to it), its less intrusive and its safer for your meter. I’d be pretty upset frying a meter or having to buy a $10+ fuse for one of mine or even possibly injuring myself or someone else by overloading a cheap meter. Sounds like you got a good one though. In my opinion.
Now back to the meter deal. You’re hoping to find a draw that is less than 1A that being equal to 1000mA, of course. So the spec you stated on your meter seems to more than meet standards. Good news! Good buy! lol This also goes back to why I like the test I mentioned its quicker (once you’re used to it), its less intrusive and its safer for your meter. I’d be pretty upset frying a meter or having to buy a $10+ fuse for one of mine or even possibly injuring myself or someone else by overloading a cheap meter. Sounds like you got a good one though. In my opinion.
Not really I think my Fluke 87 will only do 20A for 30 seconds. If your meter will read millivolts try this instead. Do a voltage drop test on tabs on back of fuses instead of putting your meter inline. You will still need wiring diagram but you will easily be able to jump to each leg of circuit and or component to see where the draw is. I will attach a link with a chart that converts millivolts to milliamps for particular fuses.
Here it is http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/lberger/Vd_Fuse_Chart.pdf
Not really I think my Fluke 87 will only do 20A for 30 seconds. If your meter will read millivolts try this instead. Do a voltage drop test on tabs on back of fuses instead of putting your meter inline. You will still need wiring diagram but you will easily be able to jump to each leg of circuit and or component to see where the draw is. I will attach a link with a chart that converts millivolts to milliamps for particular fuses.
Here it is http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/lberger/Vd_Fuse_Chart.pdf
Almost forgot check power at bulb with and without pedal depressed. Just to make sure you’re switch is not bad our out of adjustment if you have an adjustable type (screw in switch).
Almost forgot check power at bulb with and without pedal depressed. Just to make sure you’re switch is not bad our out of adjustment if you have an adjustable type (screw in switch).
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