Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
You know maybe a quick health check with a vacuum gauge may help possibly point to an area we haven’t thought of. You can generally pick one up for $20 and up. Take a look at this link may help you decide whether you have an internal issue http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=457 . Maybe a power balance test may help as well. The vacuum test would point to whether it would be a good idea to pursue a power balance test.
Check this out… http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-read-obd1-trouble-codes-for-1993-1995-j-s-t217489.html 93 won’t be OBD II, that wasn’t mandatory till 1996. Hope the link helps.
Check this out… http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-read-obd1-trouble-codes-for-1993-1995-j-s-t217489.html 93 won’t be OBD II, that wasn’t mandatory till 1996. Hope the link helps.
Actually something as simple as wiring harness repair would warrant a relearn. A far as just removing the balancer I honestly can’t say. The need for a relearn can also not even set a code on these vehicles. To be cautious I would perform a relearn anytime you move anything or replace anything as you could change the air gap to the sensor causing inaccurate readings. I would also go ahead and change the sensor prior to relearn. If your luck is anything like mine it would go out as soon as I had the relearn performed lol
Actually something as simple as wiring harness repair would warrant a relearn. A far as just removing the balancer I honestly can’t say. The need for a relearn can also not even set a code on these vehicles. To be cautious I would perform a relearn anytime you move anything or replace anything as you could change the air gap to the sensor causing inaccurate readings. I would also go ahead and change the sensor prior to relearn. If your luck is anything like mine it would go out as soon as I had the relearn performed lol
I’ve always found that its better to have an arsenal of different types. I have fluted, rigid, spline and left hand drill bits. The drill bits are usually my go to.
I’ve always found that its better to have an arsenal of different types. I have fluted, rigid, spline and left hand drill bits. The drill bits are usually my go to.
Yes sir! If you replaced the harmonic balancer you will have to do the relearn. The only way to do it is with a scan tool capable of doing it. I know mine gives the option with a list of steps that it checks off as the pcm detects each action.
Yes sir! If you replaced the harmonic balancer you will have to do the relearn. The only way to do it is with a scan tool capable of doing it. I know mine gives the option with a list of steps that it checks off as the pcm detects each action.
Jack up the front end and secure it with jackstands (you can do one side at a time) grab tire at 12 and 6 o’clock positions and rock top of tire toward and away from vehicle. If you have any play it will be quickly apparent. Word of caution though you can misdiagnose a wheel bearing for a ball joint with this method if you have play move your grip to 2 and 7 o’clock and repeat if it moves again its more than likely a wheel bearing instead. Repeat for other side.
Jack up the front end and secure it with jackstands (you can do one side at a time) grab tire at 12 and 6 o’clock positions and rock top of tire toward and away from vehicle. If you have any play it will be quickly apparent. Word of caution though you can misdiagnose a wheel bearing for a ball joint with this method if you have play move your grip to 2 and 7 o’clock and repeat if it moves again its more than likely a wheel bearing instead. Repeat for other side.
IP fuse panel = instrument panel (fuse box connected to instrument panel). Sounds like you’re on right track with the cluster. The IP fuse you pulled outside has nothing to do with that its like a master for the fuse box inside in a way if that makes sense. Now you need to go down stream unplug the cluster see if draw drops. Do you have the dome light blocked or disconnected? Just wondering because you probably have something from door switch that will also run into the cluster especially if there is a “door ajar” feature sometimes even if there’s not you may have something “awake” with door open.
IP fuse panel = instrument panel (fuse box connected to instrument panel). Sounds like you’re on right track with the cluster. The IP fuse you pulled outside has nothing to do with that its like a master for the fuse box inside in a way if that makes sense. Now you need to go down stream unplug the cluster see if draw drops. Do you have the dome light blocked or disconnected? Just wondering because you probably have something from door switch that will also run into the cluster especially if there is a “door ajar” feature sometimes even if there’s not you may have something “awake” with door open.