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Permatex makes an epoxy that’s specifically for plastic radiator and gas tanks. Most part stores carry it in the same section as their sealers and adhesives. I’ve used it, it does work just follow the directions to a T.
Permatex makes an epoxy that’s specifically for plastic radiator and gas tanks. Most part stores carry it in the same section as their sealers and adhesives. I’ve used it, it does work just follow the directions to a T.
Honestly, and I’m ready for the flaming to begin, gas is gas. If you’ve ever been to a distribution center you see all the tankers there at one time filling from the same source. Exxon, Sunoco, BP, etc. then they dump their proprietary additive package in and that’s that. Pretty fascinating to see. I second the using a busy station and that poorly maintained and old in ground tanks are usually to blame. I had a family member in the industry who let me see those secrets firsthand.
Honestly, and I’m ready for the flaming to begin, gas is gas. If you’ve ever been to a distribution center you see all the tankers there at one time filling from the same source. Exxon, Sunoco, BP, etc. then they dump their proprietary additive package in and that’s that. Pretty fascinating to see. I second the using a busy station and that poorly maintained and old in ground tanks are usually to blame. I had a family member in the industry who let me see those secrets firsthand.
The only recommendation I have made on switches from conventional to synthetic is to short change maybe the first couple of oil changes. The reasoning here is not the fact that synthetic cleans better (it does btw). Its that the contaminates from conventional are what is going to be cleaning out. After that I’m more than comfortable to tell someone to go their full interval that is recommended or go by the oil life counter. The engineers have billions at their disposal to research when and how stuff needs to be done. I go along with them, anything else would make me appear arrogant thinking I know more than the guy who designed it.
The only recommendation I have made on switches from conventional to synthetic is to short change maybe the first couple of oil changes. The reasoning here is not the fact that synthetic cleans better (it does btw). Its that the contaminates from conventional are what is going to be cleaning out. After that I’m more than comfortable to tell someone to go their full interval that is recommended or go by the oil life counter. The engineers have billions at their disposal to research when and how stuff needs to be done. I go along with them, anything else would make me appear arrogant thinking I know more than the guy who designed it.
The only vehicles I’ve seen that recommend prefill are turbos.
The only vehicles I’ve seen that recommend prefill are turbos.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=84265]Oh and my all time favorite
“drumroll”
“Customers that claim that they are mechanics, even though they have never worked in a shop, had formal mechanical schooling and are only “letting” me do the work because they do not have the time”
:angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:[/quote]
I had two Emmy award winners get mad at me for not letting them use one of my bays to do God knows what to their car. “Well, we’re licensed mechanics.” I asked “How did you pull that off I’m only certified.” (TN does not have state licensing)Love the ohming a light bulb deal. That’s hilarious!
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=84265]Oh and my all time favorite
“drumroll”
“Customers that claim that they are mechanics, even though they have never worked in a shop, had formal mechanical schooling and are only “letting” me do the work because they do not have the time”
:angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:[/quote]
I had two Emmy award winners get mad at me for not letting them use one of my bays to do God knows what to their car. “Well, we’re licensed mechanics.” I asked “How did you pull that off I’m only certified.” (TN does not have state licensing)Love the ohming a light bulb deal. That’s hilarious!
Good deal! I had a rather odd “friend” at a salvage yard the would launch stuff after planting an airbag in the ground. Gives you a new respect of their power. You haven’t lived till you’ve seem one launch a 55 gal sized barrel into the air. lol I just wouldn’t want to see anyone get hurt. I’m glad you’re smarter than the average bear. lol
Good deal! I had a rather odd “friend” at a salvage yard the would launch stuff after planting an airbag in the ground. Gives you a new respect of their power. You haven’t lived till you’ve seem one launch a 55 gal sized barrel into the air. lol I just wouldn’t want to see anyone get hurt. I’m glad you’re smarter than the average bear. lol
Honestly, if that is indeed where the problem lies (and I mean absolutely no disrespect) I would stop the diy diagnosis. The airbag system is definitely an area I would recommend not messing with. The danger of an accidental airbag deployment could really screw with your day. 🙂 I would recommend checking other circuits with the test method I suggested earlier just in case pulling this fuse caused another system to power down after it could not communicate with the airbag system. After you have verified that it its truly airbag related I would send your vehicle to a repair shop. Just being safety conscience. 🙂 No disrespect intended.
Honestly, if that is indeed where the problem lies (and I mean absolutely no disrespect) I would stop the diy diagnosis. The airbag system is definitely an area I would recommend not messing with. The danger of an accidental airbag deployment could really screw with your day. 🙂 I would recommend checking other circuits with the test method I suggested earlier just in case pulling this fuse caused another system to power down after it could not communicate with the airbag system. After you have verified that it its truly airbag related I would send your vehicle to a repair shop. Just being safety conscience. 🙂 No disrespect intended.
You know maybe a quick health check with a vacuum gauge may help possibly point to an area we haven’t thought of. You can generally pick one up for $20 and up. Take a look at this link may help you decide whether you have an internal issue http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=457 . Maybe a power balance test may help as well. The vacuum test would point to whether it would be a good idea to pursue a power balance test.
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