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One more piece of info: The remaining wall thickness is .105 to .110″
I’m not sure how little is too little for the sake of drilling and tapping.
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=179343]I am going to say that what you are hearing is the differential gearing in the trans and that amount of play rationally is normal as long as its not up and down or side to side.[/quote]
My rationale for making this post is I don’t recall the clank, or the rotation of the axle, prior to this latest incident. I’m not saying it didn’t exist, I just don’t remember it and I think I normally would.
I think I will remove the opposite wheel and compare sides.
Other than that, I welcome any additional input.
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=179311]I can’t really tell by your video but is the axle moving back forth with the rotor or is the axle stationary?[/quote]
The axle is moving with the rotor. I haven’t put a stethoscope to it yet, but the clanking noise sounds pretty deep in the axle, at the transmission end.
[quote=”knookle89″ post=179306]What type of car is it? Front wheel drive or rear? :)[/quote]
FWD Toyota RAV4
Bump…
I haven’t had time to deal with the car yet. Could someone have a look at the YouTube link in the original post, and tell me what you think?
It has nothing to do with the tires because they are brand new. Watch the video. There are two problems, really.
I’m far more concerned about the rotational slop and clank in the axle. I don’t recall it being that “loose” before.
[quote=”ArmedsouthernEr” post=177080]This Engine has the GM CPI fuel system and it needs 60-66 PSI of fuel pressure to start. Sometimes one of the symptoms of this system is exactly what you are describing. I would get a fuel pressure tester and see what the actual fuel pressure is when it wont start.[/quote]
KOEO: ~50 psi. Stays at 50 psi no matter how times I cycle the key.
Cranking: Sinks steadily from 50 to 43 psi the longer I crank (and maybe further, I didn’t try), then returns to 50 psi once the cranking stopsYou know what, the last time I put gas in this vehicle (a couple weeks ago), I added a full bottle of Techron and only enough fuel to reach 1/4 tank. I wonder if that loosened some crud in the tank or fuel lines?
FWIW, I’m aware of the O-ring going bad on the inlet side (where said hose attaches to pump) on other Honda/Acura models. I couldn’t find anybody reporting this problem with an Element or CR-V, hence my question here.
[quote=”ArmedsouthernEr” post=177080]This Engine has the GM CPI fuel system and it needs 60-66 PSI of fuel pressure to start. Sometimes one of the symptoms of this system is exactly what you are describing. I would get a fuel pressure tester and see what the actual fuel pressure is when it wont start.[/quote]
Interesting. Yeah, I’m not familiar with this CPI system at all. I looked on Rock Auto though, is this the potentially problematic assembly you’re talking about?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1053753&cc=1361506&jsn=10
[quote=”cap269″ post=170889][quote=”desertdude” post=170453]Which scan tools are necessary to read Enhanced OBDII codes on Asian vehicles, mainly Toyota and Honda?
I have a ScanGauge II but the live data is limited with Asian vehicles (it’s worse with Honda) so I presume it’s not capable of reading anything other than P0xxx codes?[/quote]
Something like this maybe? https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3120-Diagnostic-Reader-Vehicles/dp/B000KID2ZC%5B/quote%5D
If you look closer at the specs, there’s no mention of it being able to read ABS, Transmission, Airbag codes on Hondas. That’s what I’m looking for, something that does all that plus other Enhanced OBDII codes on both Toyota and Honda cars.
Replacing the truck will be it. The estimate to fix the rear differential is another $1150. Not worth sinking more money into this thing.
Unless I can find a local charity to help out, the budget is going to be around $3,000 for a different car. I think the best bet is one of the following. Which would you choose and why? How high in mileage would you go? Should we avoid any particular years?
Honda Civic
Honda Accord
Toyota Corolla
Toyota Camry[quote=”Rattman1″ post=150580]I’ve seen 2 strut mounts fail really close to each other. With in 1000 miles.[/quote]
So if I remove the strut assemblies from the car…how can I verify it is indeed the strut mounts? Will it be obvious (visually or audibly), or will I need to compress the coil springs first and remove the mounts for closer examination?
I was able to wedge the microphone between the inner fender and the front bumper area and did some road tests. Couldn’t hear the rattling at all. Same for anywhere I placed the mic toward the front of the vehicle.
Strut mounts came to mind, but do both sides really fail at the exact same time?
I did replace the rear and driver’s side engine mounts soon after purchasing the vehicle. They were Honda OEM replacements and everything looks perfectly fine — nothing loose or broken like it was before.
Yes, it’s in there somewhere but not moving around. Probably stuck to some residual oil at the moment.
As for the oil on top of the engine, this is what I encountered the other night. That’s not gravity seepage or being sloppy when filling the oil. Two months ago when changing the alternator I figured it was exactly that, so I cleaned up every drop of oil. But the oil “leak” returned as you can see below. There have been no oil fills since then.
That plug and the bolt holding the coil pack were loose. The No. 4 plug was also loose. I already picked up a new valve cover gasket and will change it out soon.
Did those plugs back out on their own? I’m so obsessive compulsive about torquing plugs properly that I’m really stumped by this…
