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think they just don’t want a valve spring and keeper to accidentally come off in the process. i know that GM wants you to have the cylinder in the top dead position for installation. probably for nut torque but i never have. think you’ll b ok
think they just don’t want a valve spring and keeper to accidentally come off in the process. i know that GM wants you to have the cylinder in the top dead position for installation. probably for nut torque but i never have. think you’ll b ok
ANYTHING THATS FREE!! hate when the customer says “oh could you also ajust my hood latch while ur changing my door speaker”. COME ON!
ANYTHING THATS FREE!! hate when the customer says “oh could you also ajust my hood latch while ur changing my door speaker”. COME ON!
Just did an intake gasket on one of these the other day. Look around were the belt tensioner is. Is there wetness or orange crust? That is a sign of a intake leak or those plastic elbows broken. As for checking the coolant, make sure u open the radiator cap and look at the coolant level in there too. The resivour is only an expansion tank for the excess coolant when the car is warm. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions .
Just did an intake gasket on one of these the other day. Look around were the belt tensioner is. Is there wetness or orange crust? That is a sign of a intake leak or those plastic elbows broken. As for checking the coolant, make sure u open the radiator cap and look at the coolant level in there too. The resivour is only an expansion tank for the excess coolant when the car is warm. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions .
In my part of the word we have very low standards for fuel. I have seen carbon effect an engine with as little as 11,000miles. A carbon cleaning in my dealership consists of running the car and injecting the cleaner into the intake. It cleans the throttle body, intake, valves, combustion chambers, and catalytic converter. Its not necessary if you are not experiencing a problem but it wont hurt. Yes 30k is a good interval for this service. As for fluid flush, it is early still so i wouldn’t recommend that, but a good idea is to check ur owners manual. Also you can fight carbon by using a quality fuel. Hope this helps and let me know if you need anything else.
In my part of the word we have very low standards for fuel. I have seen carbon effect an engine with as little as 11,000miles. A carbon cleaning in my dealership consists of running the car and injecting the cleaner into the intake. It cleans the throttle body, intake, valves, combustion chambers, and catalytic converter. Its not necessary if you are not experiencing a problem but it wont hurt. Yes 30k is a good interval for this service. As for fluid flush, it is early still so i wouldn’t recommend that, but a good idea is to check ur owners manual. Also you can fight carbon by using a quality fuel. Hope this helps and let me know if you need anything else.
You have to micromitor the rotors. If they are within the factory specs for discard thickness then they are good. You have to look at the quality of the surface too. If there are deep rust ridges, heavy rust , or deep grooves then you need a new rotor. A quality parts store should be able to measure them for you. In the last shop I worked for we replaced every rotor that came in for a brake Job, but this one I’m at now we try to turn everything. Maybe has to do with the flat rate system. We get paid more to turn um. So what I’m trying to say is you have to make a judgement . Rotors are cheep so I usually just replace on my personal cars. Let me know if this helps.
You have to micromitor the rotors. If they are within the factory specs for discard thickness then they are good. You have to look at the quality of the surface too. If there are deep rust ridges, heavy rust , or deep grooves then you need a new rotor. A quality parts store should be able to measure them for you. In the last shop I worked for we replaced every rotor that came in for a brake Job, but this one I’m at now we try to turn everything. Maybe has to do with the flat rate system. We get paid more to turn um. So what I’m trying to say is you have to make a judgement . Rotors are cheep so I usually just replace on my personal cars. Let me know if this helps.
oh man a ’95 villager this topic hits home for me. my dad has a ’93 so i like we are family lol. we had a problem once with the gear selector cable. there is a hold down under the dash for the cable by the steering column. it had pulled away and the van wasn’t going into park. the van wound start in reverse. i did some quick fixes to secure it i.e. zip ties and it works ok to this day. the gear selector for the trans is very easy to get to and see. its right in front of the vehicle on the transmission. looks kinda half moonish with a cable going to it. make sure this lever is all the way up( i think or all the way down) before trying to start the van. a good test is to simply try to push the van, if it won’t budge its in park. we also had problem with the starter. it would give you that notorious nothing when you turned the key. a easy test for this is to have an assistant turn the key in the start position and hold. you’ll need a long pry bar because the starter is kinda buried under wires. hold the pry bar against the starter (biggest round part) and smack the bar with a hammer. if the van starts its the starter failing. these starters can be pricey (especially if you don’t want to put any more money into an 17 year old car) so what you can do is clean around the are where the starter goes into (yes you need to remove the starter) pay special attention to around the bolt holes. this will buy you some time but not always a fix. being also that the starter is a little hard to remove you might want to just replace anyway. up to you. hope this helps, let me know if ya need more info. i wanna know too what fixed it
oh man a ’95 villager this topic hits home for me. my dad has a ’93 so i like we are family lol. we had a problem once with the gear selector cable. there is a hold down under the dash for the cable by the steering column. it had pulled away and the van wasn’t going into park. the van wound start in reverse. i did some quick fixes to secure it i.e. zip ties and it works ok to this day. the gear selector for the trans is very easy to get to and see. its right in front of the vehicle on the transmission. looks kinda half moonish with a cable going to it. make sure this lever is all the way up( i think or all the way down) before trying to start the van. a good test is to simply try to push the van, if it won’t budge its in park. we also had problem with the starter. it would give you that notorious nothing when you turned the key. a easy test for this is to have an assistant turn the key in the start position and hold. you’ll need a long pry bar because the starter is kinda buried under wires. hold the pry bar against the starter (biggest round part) and smack the bar with a hammer. if the van starts its the starter failing. these starters can be pricey (especially if you don’t want to put any more money into an 17 year old car) so what you can do is clean around the are where the starter goes into (yes you need to remove the starter) pay special attention to around the bolt holes. this will buy you some time but not always a fix. being also that the starter is a little hard to remove you might want to just replace anyway. up to you. hope this helps, let me know if ya need more info. i wanna know too what fixed it