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I’m having this issue when turning right and accelerating on a slow speed, e.g. about 10-25 mph on our 2005 Toyota Avalon XL. I checked both CV axles and the passenger’s side was loose (slop). I replaced that but while pulling out the old (stock OEM), the shafted pulled at the cv joint grease was liquid and poured out. Replaced with an Autozone Duralast CV axle and everything went back smoothly. It still vibrates on right turns. Checked engine mounts with the gas, transmission in D and holding the breaks but it doesn’t move. while under there to repalce the CV shaft, checked ball joints and all were good (no broken grease seals, no slop). Checked wheel bearings on both sides and no noise, no play at 6-12 o’clock, 3-9 o’clock or any direction. Any I missed or tips? Thanks very much.
It was a 1996 or 1998 with over 156,000 miles. I told him what may be wrong and he purchased the parts. I just did the diagnosis and labor. He bought it from NAPA and I was going to order it from Rock Auto or an online Nissan parts dealer. He didn’t want to take it to the dealer so we did the repairs ourselves plus his cousin owned the NAPA franchise so he got the parts cheap. Thanks for the tip and I read somewhere it was a lifetime warranty on exhaust parts namely the cat converter but not sure.
I have the BlueDriver by Lemur. At $100 from Amazon.com it’s not one of the lowest priced versions but is is an excellent scan tool. My co-worker’s Nissan Xterra died and had to tow it to a shop. The shop told him what was wrong and gave him a price of $2200 to fix it. I went over scanned it and it listed repair suggestions. It was his cat converters were clogged and the O2 sensors were failing. I replaced those with aftermarket parts and costed him $600 and now it runs fine.
When I was and got out of vocational school back in 1984, I started with a Craftsman set and tool box then worked my way for a rollaway chest. When I left the profession back in 1990 I kept the tools but sold the chest (stupid mistake now the Craftsman chest are made in china). When I worked and got father along I bought Snap Ons. The company I worked for supplied all the air tools and we my boss bought Snap Ons. We even had a 80 gallon Snap On compressor because he didn’t like Sears at that time. Good luck in your career!
Aircat 1150 = $160 at amazon.com, light, powerfull, cheap for starting out
IR 2235TiMAXQ = $250 at amazon. Powerful, <$ Snap OnMost impact wrenches need at least 5 SCFM. At 6 gallons you’re just going to be waiting for the tank to fill up. You need at least 30 gallons at 5-6 SCFM @ 90 PSI. I have a Husky 30 gallon at 5.3 SCFM @ 90 psi and so far it’s been working great. I remove 4 wheels @ 6 lug nuts each before it refills the tank. I’m using a IR 2235TiMAX and sometimes a Snap On MG725 impact wrench.
Disconnecting the battery may reset the window auto feature. CHeck your owner’s manual on how to reset it. Or the detailing fluid may have disabled the switch. Don’t detail anymore and let the switch dry out. seat removal does not affect the windows and the unit inside the door that raises and lowers the window is a window regulator which seems to work fine.
[quote=”Summer_Night” post=160019]This might sound silly but are you sure there is plenty of oil in the engine?
Corollas of a lot of years are horrible about burning oil. I know this, I have a 95 corolla. Don’t rely on the oil light alone.
One quart per 1,000 miles is not unheard of. Has something to do with the oil drain holes in the pistons being too small and clogging or something.From my research, the 1.6 and 1.8 with belts are both non-interference engines.
So basically, if the timing belt or tensioner is the problem, replacing those should be all that is really necessary.Corollas did switch over to timing chains at some point but 94 has a belt so that is all that matters here.[/quote]
Thanks, that’s nice to know about the oil burning and oil drain holes if I ever come across one.
According to this list, you have a timing belt.
BTW Eric did a video where the tensioner was improperly installed and it was grinding the timing belt.
You should use what your manufacturer recommends from your owner’s manual or you can go to Amsoil.com and enter your make, model, year and engine size. You’ll get the correct type and weight of fluid to use.
Google “Grease and Rubber” and you’ll get a wealth of information. Here’s an excerpt from Wikipedia on Silicone Grease:
“Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts, such as O-rings. Additionally, silicone grease does not swell or soften the rubber, which can be a problem with hydrocarbon based greases. It functions well as a corrosion-inhibitor and lubricant for purposes that require a thicker lubricant.”
I use them sometimes when I’m being lazy. Most times I just go with the lowest torque on the impact then use a torque wrench to get them correct. This is the way Costco tire shop does it and torque sticks are prohibited so I’m told by my cousin who works there.
I was in the same boat as you plus my home workshop/garage is so small, I have to move a car out to do any auto repair/maintenance let alone just to do laundry both wash and dry. However I found a compressor was more versatile as I use it to fill our vehicle’s tires, our bicycle tires, blowing stuff hence I bought air tools to go with it. Plus I love the sound air impact tools make when being used.