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Update:
I have the new oil pressure sender sensor, I have changed the Crankcase and PVC valves and the new sensor is located behind the throttle body on top right next to the firewall and Distributor cap. any suggestions for removal without braking it of the wiring harness clip?
Thank,
Is there any user in the San Bernardino, CA area that has one I could? I have Fuel Pressure tester but I don’t know if it would be compatible.
Thank You,
David L
Quick Update, I unplugged and re-plugged in the Knock Sensor and now the check engine light has turned off. Could this have just been a loose connection?
Quick Update, I unplugged and re-plugged in the Knock Sensor and now the check engine light has turned off. Could this have just been a loose connection?
I found the sensor and the wiring harness plug, don’t know what size socket I’m going to need but there is a lot of congestion in the location.
I found the sensor and the wiring harness plug, don’t know what size socket I’m going to need but there is a lot of congestion in the location.
No rattling or out of the ordinary noise that I can detect however, I do have a new freeze frame. The P/S Belt has been squealing recently however that could be an unrelated issue.
P0325: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) (Powertrain, Generic)
Permanent Trouble Codes
-noneFreeze Frame
P0325: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) (Powertrain, Generic)
Fuel system status: Fuel system 1: Closed loop (1)
Fuel system status: Fuel system 2: NA
Calculated engine load: 50.2 %
Engine Coolant Temperature: 186 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1: -0.8 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1: -3.9 %
Engine RPM: 3397 RPM
Vehicle Speed Sensor: 75 mph
Ignition Timing Advance for #1 Cylinder: 30.0
Intake Air Temperature: 71 °F
Air Flow Rate from Mass Flow Sensor: 4.8 lb/min
Absolute Throttle Position: 22.0 %
Time Since Engine Start: 445 s
Commanded Evaporative Purge: 0.0 %
Fuel Level Input: 0.0 %
Barometric Pressure: 29.0 inHg
Control module voltage: 14.07 V
Absolute Load Value: 92.9 %
Fuel/Air Commanded Equivalence Ratio: 1.000
Relative Throttle Position: 20.8 %
Ambient Air Temperature: 50 °FNo rattling or out of the ordinary noise that I can detect however, I do have a new freeze frame. The P/S Belt has been squealing recently however that could be an unrelated issue.
P0325: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) (Powertrain, Generic)
Permanent Trouble Codes
-noneFreeze Frame
P0325: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) (Powertrain, Generic)
Fuel system status: Fuel system 1: Closed loop (1)
Fuel system status: Fuel system 2: NA
Calculated engine load: 50.2 %
Engine Coolant Temperature: 186 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1: -0.8 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1: -3.9 %
Engine RPM: 3397 RPM
Vehicle Speed Sensor: 75 mph
Ignition Timing Advance for #1 Cylinder: 30.0
Intake Air Temperature: 71 °F
Air Flow Rate from Mass Flow Sensor: 4.8 lb/min
Absolute Throttle Position: 22.0 %
Time Since Engine Start: 445 s
Commanded Evaporative Purge: 0.0 %
Fuel Level Input: 0.0 %
Barometric Pressure: 29.0 inHg
Control module voltage: 14.07 V
Absolute Load Value: 92.9 %
Fuel/Air Commanded Equivalence Ratio: 1.000
Relative Throttle Position: 20.8 %
Ambient Air Temperature: 50 °FIf it seemed I was not listening to the advise, I was and my uncomfortably came not from the job that needs to be done but the fact that I am limit to what I can do based on wearing I am currently living on Campus at Cal State and have limited space available to me.
I would definitely have used ramps if I had the space to store them when not in use. As for the tools, the 17mm socket fits perfectly snug over the drain plug with no play to it. Before starting the job I had watched Eric’s Oil Change video, verified the tools that I needed. I am confident that if I had been able to remove the drain plug the rest of the project would have gone smoothly.
There are times I don’t know my own strength and am thus cautious about applying too much or too little. As one can see from the images in this thread the two jack stands are in place but that is the highest I can get them. For my car I use Mobil 1 High Mileage and thus pay more to take the car to a shop.
I do appreciate all the advice and thank anyone who can help me out. As I am still a beginner at this, I hope to one day be answering other peoples questions based on my personal experience however for the time being I will be asking questions when I need help and reach an impass in projects I am working on.
-Dave
Cal State, San BernardinoIf it seemed I was not listening to the advise, I was and my uncomfortably came not from the job that needs to be done but the fact that I am limit to what I can do based on wearing I am currently living on Campus at Cal State and have limited space available to me.
I would definitely have used ramps if I had the space to store them when not in use. As for the tools, the 17mm socket fits perfectly snug over the drain plug with no play to it. Before starting the job I had watched Eric’s Oil Change video, verified the tools that I needed. I am confident that if I had been able to remove the drain plug the rest of the project would have gone smoothly.
There are times I don’t know my own strength and am thus cautious about applying too much or too little. As one can see from the images in this thread the two jack stands are in place but that is the highest I can get them. For my car I use Mobil 1 High Mileage and thus pay more to take the car to a shop.
I do appreciate all the advice and thank anyone who can help me out. As I am still a beginner at this, I hope to one day be answering other peoples questions based on my personal experience however for the time being I will be asking questions when I need help and reach an impass in projects I am working on.
-Dave
Cal State, San BernardinoKarl,
I’m going to take it to a shop to get the plug loosened and I’m looking to a Drain Plug Valve for future changes. I have tried the suggestions, but I’m also trying to be careful to as mention not strip the bolt head or threads.
I have done Oil changes in the past and this is the first car in which the Drain Plug has given me trouble. A healthy conversation on even easy things can be used a learning tool to help others who might have the same issue. I personally believe I would have more luck getting it loose if I could lift the car high enough to attach a breaker bar or a use the double wrench technique, which I attempted using my ratchet and wrench. I also remember last time I tried this at this height seeing my engine move slight when trying to get the plug loose at this low height. I do not want my engine falling on me because I used too much force.
I simply asked a question looking for help.