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For front end parts I have done well with Moog. They often are provided with grease fittings when the OEM ones were not. I like Modine radiators; fit & function have always been perfect. For belts & hoses I usually buy Gates. I seldom buy OEM parts because they seem to cost twice as much as name brand aftermarket. I avoid things like Chinese aftermarket brake rotors; they often seem to warp.
I buy my parts at the local NAPA store; their quality and fit have given me no problems; I have had problems with the other chain parts houses. The parts people at NAPA are really good. They seem to know the business better than the other store counter people.
For front end parts I have done well with Moog. They often are provided with grease fittings when the OEM ones were not. I like Modine radiators; fit & function have always been perfect. For belts & hoses I usually buy Gates. I seldom buy OEM parts because they seem to cost twice as much as name brand aftermarket. I avoid things like Chinese aftermarket brake rotors; they often seem to warp.
I buy my parts at the local NAPA store; their quality and fit have given me no problems; I have had problems with the other chain parts houses. The parts people at NAPA are really good. They seem to know the business better than the other store counter people.
I have had many a reliable POS as a daily driver throughout my life. No payments, liability insurance only, if the transmission goes it’s off to the wrecking yard. Both my now adult kids started out with cars far older than they were. That was some valuable education. We would start off with the stuff that could kill folks… brakes, tires, front end. Then we would go through ignition tune ups, belts, hoses. Actually, first step was usually to clean out under the hood so problems were easy to spot.
Bought each his own basic tools, each tool etched with initials. Break or lose one, kid earns replacement.
Since they had more time than money taught ’em things like rebuilding an alternator. Brushes and bearings are usually only a few bucks.
The payback for spending that time with them: I’m now old (70) and feeble (arthritis). My most used tool is the claw pickup thing for tools and parts I drop Either kid is willing and able to help me out with wrenching.
I have had many a reliable POS as a daily driver throughout my life. No payments, liability insurance only, if the transmission goes it’s off to the wrecking yard. Both my now adult kids started out with cars far older than they were. That was some valuable education. We would start off with the stuff that could kill folks… brakes, tires, front end. Then we would go through ignition tune ups, belts, hoses. Actually, first step was usually to clean out under the hood so problems were easy to spot.
Bought each his own basic tools, each tool etched with initials. Break or lose one, kid earns replacement.
Since they had more time than money taught ’em things like rebuilding an alternator. Brushes and bearings are usually only a few bucks.
The payback for spending that time with them: I’m now old (70) and feeble (arthritis). My most used tool is the claw pickup thing for tools and parts I drop Either kid is willing and able to help me out with wrenching.
HIC valve = “Hot Idle Control” valve. Just say’n.
Tx for a great pair of videos. Almost makes me long for the days as carbs were going out and F.I. was coming in and manufacturers were doing weird stuff to carbs to make the emissions numbers.
HIC valve = “Hot Idle Control” valve. Just say’n.
Tx for a great pair of videos. Almost makes me long for the days as carbs were going out and F.I. was coming in and manufacturers were doing weird stuff to carbs to make the emissions numbers.
Agree with the left hand drill bits. Also, sometimes have cut a short piece of steel tubing that fits down inside the hole but allows the drill bit to pass to protect the threads. This was in a shipyard on a part that would have been hella expensive to replace.
Agree with the left hand drill bits. Also, sometimes have cut a short piece of steel tubing that fits down inside the hole but allows the drill bit to pass to protect the threads. This was in a shipyard on a part that would have been hella expensive to replace.
The bottom drawer of my tool chest has odd random stuff I have made over my life to use on a specific problem. Example: Jig to center the drill bit to use an easy out in a bad location. Another example: was trying to rebuild an alternator out of a Taurus. Shaft was sized on bearing. Made a little wrench that would reach through the ventilation slots on the front housing to unscrew the bearing retainer. What amuses me: after my kids inherit my tools they are gonna have to try to figure out the “bottom drawer” stuff.
The bottom drawer of my tool chest has odd random stuff I have made over my life to use on a specific problem. Example: Jig to center the drill bit to use an easy out in a bad location. Another example: was trying to rebuild an alternator out of a Taurus. Shaft was sized on bearing. Made a little wrench that would reach through the ventilation slots on the front housing to unscrew the bearing retainer. What amuses me: after my kids inherit my tools they are gonna have to try to figure out the “bottom drawer” stuff.
70 y.o. new guy here. For rust repair on a beater, in a complex area like a p.u. cab corner, after cutting out the rust sometimes I epoxy in some aluminum window screen. That can easily be hand formed to shape. Then fiberglass, grind down, bondo, fill & sand.
I’m gonna be up late watching your videos. Very down to earth approach.
70 y.o. new guy here. For rust repair on a beater, in a complex area like a p.u. cab corner, after cutting out the rust sometimes I epoxy in some aluminum window screen. That can easily be hand formed to shape. Then fiberglass, grind down, bondo, fill & sand.
I’m gonna be up late watching your videos. Very down to earth approach.