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Lived in submarines for 8 years; worked in a shipyard for 18 years. Submarines have a zillion crimped connectors (more or less).
First rule of crimp club: Make sure the connector is the right size for your wire. They are commonly available in yellow, blue, red. Yellow is 10-12 ga. Blue is 14-16 ga. Red is 18-20 ga. There are others, but they are not commonly seen.
Second rule of crimp club: The cheap crimpers commonly available for a few dollars do not make good crimps. The ratchet type that won’t release until the crimp is right is used for all shipboard use; the brand names are expensive but even Harbor Fright $13 dollar ones work well.
After you crimp a connector, tug on it. If it comes off it wasn’t right.
As somebody above pointed out you can get ones with heat shrink seals that protect the joint.
Brand name terminals seem to work better than cheap ones. They aren’t that expensive in bulk.That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
When I have seen the type of corrosion you describe it has been from failure of the seal between the battery post and the battery case. I have never found an effective way to fix this other than to replace the battery. In one case I know it was from me being brutal installing the cable.
There are several ways to determine if the battery going dead is due to parasitic draw or a battery fault. I would disconnect the battery, make sure it is fully charged with a battery charger, and let it set disconnected. If it is a serviceable battery you can check the individual cells with a hyrometer. After it sits overnight, use a voltmeter to see if it is still charged. If not, it’s the battery.
When I have seen the type of corrosion you describe it has been from failure of the seal between the battery post and the battery case. I have never found an effective way to fix this other than to replace the battery. In one case I know it was from me being brutal installing the cable.
There are several ways to determine if the battery going dead is due to parasitic draw or a battery fault. I would disconnect the battery, make sure it is fully charged with a battery charger, and let it set disconnected. If it is a serviceable battery you can check the individual cells with a hyrometer. After it sits overnight, use a voltmeter to see if it is still charged. If not, it’s the battery.
Inverted flare vs. bubble flare question…
These are two different types of flares, done with different flaring tools, and are not interchangeable. As an “old guy” I grew up familiar with double flares in brake lines. This is a cone shaped flare on the end of the line, with the outer edge folded back to form a lip. It looks like a “single flare” used in plumbing but is not. The fitting seals on the folded back cone shape lip.
A bubble flare (I think also known as an ISO flare) is a bubble formed back from the tip of the tube. It is made with a different tool. The fitting seals on the front edge and back edge of the bubble.
I don’t know how to tell which one you have unless you remove it. You are taking the chance of the master cyl draining down, so keep an eye on the fluid level. You don’t want to make bleeding any harder than you have to.
Inverted flare vs. bubble flare question…
These are two different types of flares, done with different flaring tools, and are not interchangeable. As an “old guy” I grew up familiar with double flares in brake lines. This is a cone shaped flare on the end of the line, with the outer edge folded back to form a lip. It looks like a “single flare” used in plumbing but is not. The fitting seals on the folded back cone shape lip.
A bubble flare (I think also known as an ISO flare) is a bubble formed back from the tip of the tube. It is made with a different tool. The fitting seals on the front edge and back edge of the bubble.
I don’t know how to tell which one you have unless you remove it. You are taking the chance of the master cyl draining down, so keep an eye on the fluid level. You don’t want to make bleeding any harder than you have to.
When running my AC I usually shut it off a mile or so before my destination. My reason is that I hope to blow condensate off the evaporator and reduce chance of mildew. May be bogus; but it helps me feel good.
When running my AC I usually shut it off a mile or so before my destination. My reason is that I hope to blow condensate off the evaporator and reduce chance of mildew. May be bogus; but it helps me feel good.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=107720][quote=”DBFSubs21!” post=107588]I suggest anti-seize on the threads, particularly if it is an aluminum head.
The order doesn’t matter.
Take the opportunity to examine the tips for signs of problems; I expect you can find on-line info on “reading” plugs.[/quote]Actually, this is not recommended for some plugs.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
As for tightening them, bottom them out and then give them another 1/4 turn usually does it. Up to a 1/2 turn with plugs using a metal washer.
You don’t need to replace them in any particular order.
Good luck and keep us posted if you run into any problems.[/quote]
Thank you. Something else I learned today.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=107720][quote=”DBFSubs21!” post=107588]I suggest anti-seize on the threads, particularly if it is an aluminum head.
The order doesn’t matter.
Take the opportunity to examine the tips for signs of problems; I expect you can find on-line info on “reading” plugs.[/quote]Actually, this is not recommended for some plugs.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
As for tightening them, bottom them out and then give them another 1/4 turn usually does it. Up to a 1/2 turn with plugs using a metal washer.
You don’t need to replace them in any particular order.
Good luck and keep us posted if you run into any problems.[/quote]
Thank you. Something else I learned today.
Not in the business, but in High School worked as a “porter” in a dealership – the kid you send out chasing parts and sweeps the shop at the end of the day.
I got the idea that the tool trucks weren’t so much making money from selling tools as they were selling credit. Some of the younger guys were paying off huge debts on more tools than they needed for the job they were doing.
Not in the business, but in High School worked as a “porter” in a dealership – the kid you send out chasing parts and sweeps the shop at the end of the day.
I got the idea that the tool trucks weren’t so much making money from selling tools as they were selling credit. Some of the younger guys were paying off huge debts on more tools than they needed for the job they were doing.
One of the many reasons I lost confidence with my local dealer was attempting to upsell things not needed or did not exist:
Wanted to sell me a brake job because “pads were worn.” Still had 70% on front pads, 50% on rear.
Tried to sell me cabin filter job. My truck does not have them.
Tried to sell me fuel filter replacement. My truck does not have a serviceable filter. It is a sock in the fuel tank.
Tried to sell me tie rod inners and outers. Jacked it up; they had no play and were like new.One of the many reasons I lost confidence with my local dealer was attempting to upsell things not needed or did not exist:
Wanted to sell me a brake job because “pads were worn.” Still had 70% on front pads, 50% on rear.
Tried to sell me cabin filter job. My truck does not have them.
Tried to sell me fuel filter replacement. My truck does not have a serviceable filter. It is a sock in the fuel tank.
Tried to sell me tie rod inners and outers. Jacked it up; they had no play and were like new.I suggest anti-seize on the threads, particularly if it is an aluminum head.
The order doesn’t matter.
Take the opportunity to examine the tips for signs of problems; I expect you can find on-line info on “reading” plugs.