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[quote=”no_common_sense” post=111146]The head bolts are definitely TTY bolts. Pay extra attention to your specs & sequence and work slowly. I can’t remember precisely, but most of the longer bolts are final torqued to 75ft lbs while the lowers are torqued to 55 ft lbs and then they all get turned so many degrees to stretch the bolts to yield. It’s really easy to get so far into the sequence and then forget you’ve got to back off at those shorter bolts. The rear lower bolt is an obnoxious pain to torque to the angle spec because the brake booster sits just close enough to the head back there to be obtrusive. At least it was for the angle gauge I was using.[/quote]
I have a bottle of white nail polish in my tool box… I mark the “short ones” as a reminder. I also use it to highlight timing marks on cam/crank sprockets. I had some explaining to do the first time my wife saw it in my tool box.[quote=”no_common_sense” post=111146]The head bolts are definitely TTY bolts. Pay extra attention to your specs & sequence and work slowly. I can’t remember precisely, but most of the longer bolts are final torqued to 75ft lbs while the lowers are torqued to 55 ft lbs and then they all get turned so many degrees to stretch the bolts to yield. It’s really easy to get so far into the sequence and then forget you’ve got to back off at those shorter bolts. The rear lower bolt is an obnoxious pain to torque to the angle spec because the brake booster sits just close enough to the head back there to be obtrusive. At least it was for the angle gauge I was using.[/quote]
I have a bottle of white nail polish in my tool box… I mark the “short ones” as a reminder. I also use it to highlight timing marks on cam/crank sprockets. I had some explaining to do the first time my wife saw it in my tool box.The negative side: Once you have fixed something for a Muggle, they will want you to fix all their broken stuff FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE.
The negative side: Once you have fixed something for a Muggle, they will want you to fix all their broken stuff FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE.
First motor vehicle I drove was my uncle’s D6 Cat. My cousin said it would be O.K. He was wrong. I had to repair about 30 feet of board fence.
First motor vehicle I drove was my uncle’s D6 Cat. My cousin said it would be O.K. He was wrong. I had to repair about 30 feet of board fence.
I use dielctric grease on lamp bases to reduce corrosion and make them easier to change later. I hate fishing out parts of broken light bulbs. I used to use Vaseline on boat trailer lamps but went to the silicone stuff because I got tired of my (adult) kids making jokes about the jar of Vaseline in my tool box.
I have not had a problem with the grease screwing up contact between the socket and the lamp.
I use dielctric grease on lamp bases to reduce corrosion and make them easier to change later. I hate fishing out parts of broken light bulbs. I used to use Vaseline on boat trailer lamps but went to the silicone stuff because I got tired of my (adult) kids making jokes about the jar of Vaseline in my tool box.
I have not had a problem with the grease screwing up contact between the socket and the lamp.
DIY alignment – Long, long ago I was involved with “wrenching” for some SCCA race cars. We did the alignments because no shop would let us within a block of the shop with a race car. DIY alignment requires a REALLY FLAT LEVEL surface to do the work. We had a good place to pour an “alignment pad” where we worked.
DIY alignment – Long, long ago I was involved with “wrenching” for some SCCA race cars. We did the alignments because no shop would let us within a block of the shop with a race car. DIY alignment requires a REALLY FLAT LEVEL surface to do the work. We had a good place to pour an “alignment pad” where we worked.
I think the only problem that will result is to frighten the next guy who looks at the coolant and thinks there is a head gasket leak.
I think the only problem that will result is to frighten the next guy who looks at the coolant and thinks there is a head gasket leak.
Also a #@$*ing engineer, retired. I agree. Once you have helped somebody with something on their car, somehow you are married to it. I make an exception with my now-adult kids. I help them; they help me.
The Electrical Engineer’s curse: Used to be “Can you fix my TV?” Now it’s “Can you fix my computer?” Probably. I just don’t want to.
BTW: Also worked in space launch; mostly range safety. If your stuff goes bad my stuff blows it up.
Also a #@$*ing engineer, retired. I agree. Once you have helped somebody with something on their car, somehow you are married to it. I make an exception with my now-adult kids. I help them; they help me.
The Electrical Engineer’s curse: Used to be “Can you fix my TV?” Now it’s “Can you fix my computer?” Probably. I just don’t want to.
BTW: Also worked in space launch; mostly range safety. If your stuff goes bad my stuff blows it up.
Lived in submarines for 8 years; worked in a shipyard for 18 years. Submarines have a zillion crimped connectors (more or less).
First rule of crimp club: Make sure the connector is the right size for your wire. They are commonly available in yellow, blue, red. Yellow is 10-12 ga. Blue is 14-16 ga. Red is 18-20 ga. There are others, but they are not commonly seen.
Second rule of crimp club: The cheap crimpers commonly available for a few dollars do not make good crimps. The ratchet type that won’t release until the crimp is right is used for all shipboard use; the brand names are expensive but even Harbor Fright $13 dollar ones work well.
After you crimp a connector, tug on it. If it comes off it wasn’t right.
As somebody above pointed out you can get ones with heat shrink seals that protect the joint.
Brand name terminals seem to work better than cheap ones. They aren’t that expensive in bulk.That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.