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My brother and I have been working together since we were kids; cars, trucks, motorcycles, boat building. One of his favorite tools is his “thinking stool.” When things start going ugly he pours himself a cup of coffee, sits on the stool, and practices the “thousand yard stare” until he gets a good idea.
If you get a Chilton or Haynes manual that will probably tell you what you need to know. Here is a listing for the Haynes manual:
They also have online manuals for sale. I prefer paper. Since both of you have the same car this book may be extra useful.
For replacement radiators I have always done well with Modine. If those are the original hoses they should also be replaced, finances permitting.
If you get a Chilton or Haynes manual that will probably tell you what you need to know. Here is a listing for the Haynes manual:
They also have online manuals for sale. I prefer paper. Since both of you have the same car this book may be extra useful.
For replacement radiators I have always done well with Modine. If those are the original hoses they should also be replaced, finances permitting.
Some time about 20 – 30 years ago the World Federation of People who Design Automobiles had a contest. The HVAC guys won. They get to design the HVAC and everybody else has to design/build the car around it.
Some time about 20 – 30 years ago the World Federation of People who Design Automobiles had a contest. The HVAC guys won. They get to design the HVAC and everybody else has to design/build the car around it.
Here is one place: http://www.branders.com/product/6-bit-metal-pen-style-toolkit-with-lighted-tip-and-clip-prdid-133265/
Minimum order 100, I think. Company my brother worked for ordered a bunch, then went under a week or so later. Everybody he knows got at least one.
Here is one place: http://www.branders.com/product/6-bit-metal-pen-style-toolkit-with-lighted-tip-and-clip-prdid-133265/
Minimum order 100, I think. Company my brother worked for ordered a bunch, then went under a week or so later. Everybody he knows got at least one.
Big advantage to DIY is it gives you a chance to check out other stuff – water pump weep hole, hoses, leaks, CVs or U joints, all that. The shop guy on flat rate doesn’t have time for that, he’s on the clock.
Big advantage to DIY is it gives you a chance to check out other stuff – water pump weep hole, hoses, leaks, CVs or U joints, all that. The shop guy on flat rate doesn’t have time for that, he’s on the clock.
Is the filter properly seated? If it is sucking air could cause a variety of problems.
Is the filter properly seated? If it is sucking air could cause a variety of problems.
The Silverado with oil pressure issue – Didn’t catch the year. If it turns out to be an instrument cluster issue, this is very common. The gauges are driven by stepper motors. Replacement cluster is about $600. Mine is an ’04 I bought almost new. I replace the stepper motors when they fail; about $4 each on eBay. So far I have replaced oil pressure, volt meter, temperature indicator, speedometer. Now tach is going out; it is next. Lots of stuff posted on the internet on how to do this. Soldering skills are needed.
After he checks the pressure with a mechanical test gauge like you said, suggest he consider this if it turns out the actual oil pressure is good.
The Silverado with oil pressure issue – Didn’t catch the year. If it turns out to be an instrument cluster issue, this is very common. The gauges are driven by stepper motors. Replacement cluster is about $600. Mine is an ’04 I bought almost new. I replace the stepper motors when they fail; about $4 each on eBay. So far I have replaced oil pressure, volt meter, temperature indicator, speedometer. Now tach is going out; it is next. Lots of stuff posted on the internet on how to do this. Soldering skills are needed.
After he checks the pressure with a mechanical test gauge like you said, suggest he consider this if it turns out the actual oil pressure is good.
You say there is a lip on the rotor. That might keep the pad from proper contact. You can take the rotors to a machine shop; the machinist can mike them to see if there is enough thickness. When my rotors are in good shape, no runout or damage, I work them over with sand paper to break the glaze. Local NAPA store usually has two or three grades of rotors at different prices. I avoid the cheapest ones, usually from China. I have found that they tend to develop runout. My understanding is that on the cheap ones they tend to not leave the casting in the mold long enough to cool properly. This results in locked in stresses. Under use, rotor heats, stress relief causes warping.
I’m not a pro at this; I’m one of those f’n engineers; so if somebody else disagrees with me they probably know better.
You say there is a lip on the rotor. That might keep the pad from proper contact. You can take the rotors to a machine shop; the machinist can mike them to see if there is enough thickness. When my rotors are in good shape, no runout or damage, I work them over with sand paper to break the glaze. Local NAPA store usually has two or three grades of rotors at different prices. I avoid the cheapest ones, usually from China. I have found that they tend to develop runout. My understanding is that on the cheap ones they tend to not leave the casting in the mold long enough to cool properly. This results in locked in stresses. Under use, rotor heats, stress relief causes warping.
I’m not a pro at this; I’m one of those f’n engineers; so if somebody else disagrees with me they probably know better.
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