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I’m reasonably certain that it’s lined up. In fact, I saw the flywheel move when I spun the harmonica balancer with my other hand.
I decided I was perhaps being too cautious & conservative and got behind the passenger side portion of the transmission and wrestled the thing forward. I rocked, shook and shoved the transmission until I heard the “tink” of metal joining together & that’s when I measured the gap with my digital calipers.
Upon the first measurement, the gap measured out at 0.32 inches between the top of the engine & transmission and toward the dowel pin at the front of the engine, the gap measured out at 0.25 inches.
I then rocked, shoved and shook the transmission some more and measured the gap for a second time. At this point, the gap between the transmission & the top of the engine measured out at 0.14 inches. Towards the dowel pin in front, the gap now measures out at 0.11 inches. I clearly reduced the amount of space.
The last thing I’d notice was that whenever I put pressure on the rear portion of the transmission, the gap towards the rear dowel pin closes off completely.
In short, would you say that it’s safe to use the transmission mounting bolts to close the gap the rest of the way?
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=128468]Ensure you do it right the first time…
I.E. Replace or re-surface the Flywheel….
Replace pressure plate and clutch…
Ensure clutch is lined up correctly (a plastic tool should come with the kit that helps on this)
Replace pilot bearing (grease technique)..
Torque everything inside to spec…(flywheel, pressure plate)
Replace throwout bearing and retainer clip….
PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER PROPERLY….
In the age of digital photos, take many photos….
Go Slowly if this is your first…
Take more photos…
Look at them when putting things back together…
Chances are the transaxle will not mate properly the first time you line it up…
Jiggle, shift, jiggle, shift and jiggle and shift till everything pops in and lines up….
If the trans case does not line up and/or go into position without a space between the engine, keep trying to line everything up…
DO NOT USE TRANS to engine bolts to PULL the trans to the engine…. SOMETHING IS WRONG…. The transaxle and engine should be flush with each other when torquing the engine to trans bolts to spec…
Overall it is an easy job, but the first time without anyone over your shoulder leaves room for errors…..
Good luck…
-Karl[/quote]
Hello Karl:
I was able to get started a month early and up to this point, I’ve gotten as far removing the transmission, replacing the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disk, along with test fitting everything to the input shaft and torquing everything down to specs. For everyone’s piece of mind, I used the alignment tool that came with the clutch kit and made certain that the part of the clutch disk that reads, “Transmission side” is facing the transmission.
The problem now is that although the dowel pins are lined up, I can’t seem to get the transmission to mate with the engine. In fact, I keep ending with a half inch gap. Is this to be expected? Should I attempt to rock & shake the transmission back into place, or is it supposed to slide in easily?
Also, what I failed to mentioned earlier was that the new flywheel came with a pilot bearing already installed. I’m now starting to think that the pilot bearing that came installed from Exedy might be the wrong size. Could that be possible?
In closing, your input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the quick response.
Yeah, I’ve got to say that this will be my first clutch replacement, which makes wonder how long this project should take.
I will have a little time in April to get started before my schedule get’s crazy again (i.e. College Student). So what are some preparatory things that I can do to get started? For example, would there be any problems with removing the transmission while letting it sit until May, or would I risk having the internals rust out and get seized?
Oh that one particular video was most certainly my inspiration for wanting to do this; but what I’m attempting to do is learn how to perform this procedure safely to fuel injected engines, while eliminating all of the confusion from the internet.
Oh that one particular video was most certainly my inspiration for wanting to do this; but what I’m attempting to do is learn how to perform this procedure safely to fuel injected engines, while eliminating all of the confusion from the internet.
Respectfully, I am not too interested in Seafoam given a lot the horror stories that I’ve read. Water just seems like a safer bet, provided that I can understand the procedure correctly.
I guess what I am really hoping for is a decent write up for decarbonization with water from the questions listed above. I am certain that this will eventually help more people down the road.
Respectfully, I am not too interested in Seafoam given a lot the horror stories that I’ve read. Water just seems like a safer bet, provided that I can understand the procedure correctly.
I guess what I am really hoping for is a decent write up for decarbonization with water from the questions listed above. I am certain that this will eventually help more people down the road.