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I believe it is the front bearings that are bad. Unfortunately those are not easy to replace. You need a special tool to separate the hub and a press to install the bearing. Most diy will remove the whole steering knuckle and take it to a shop to save some money. Unless you have a hub tamer or hub shark you’ll be heading to the shop with your steering knuckles.
I believe it is the front bearings that are bad. Unfortunately those are not easy to replace. You need a special tool to separate the hub and a press to install the bearing. Most diy will remove the whole steering knuckle and take it to a shop to save some money. Unless you have a hub tamer or hub shark you’ll be heading to the shop with your steering knuckles.
Search online for a rebuilt head for your engine.
Call an auto machine shop in the area for a specific quote to save the hassle and expense of shipping. If you don’t know a good place in your area visit a parts store and ask the counter guys for a recommendation.Based on my experience in MN a good shop will clean, inspect and deck the surface for $200 – 300. About 2x that if they do a valve job. You still have to buy a gasket set if you are going to remove and replace it yourself. Also the gasket set will probably come with valve guide seals that the machine shop will use if they grind the valves.
Search online for a rebuilt head for your engine.
Call an auto machine shop in the area for a specific quote to save the hassle and expense of shipping. If you don’t know a good place in your area visit a parts store and ask the counter guys for a recommendation.Based on my experience in MN a good shop will clean, inspect and deck the surface for $200 – 300. About 2x that if they do a valve job. You still have to buy a gasket set if you are going to remove and replace it yourself. Also the gasket set will probably come with valve guide seals that the machine shop will use if they grind the valves.
Do not throw parts at this hoping they will solve the problem. Troubleshoot until you are nearly certain you have found the source. The best thing to do now is to figure out how to repeat the problem so that you can tell a mechanic what to do to experience the problem. That is where the troubleshooting begins.
A reputable shop should be able to figure this out and tell you what is wrong. The only barrier is if they cannot repeat the problem you are experiencing.
Do not throw parts at this hoping they will solve the problem. Troubleshoot until you are nearly certain you have found the source. The best thing to do now is to figure out how to repeat the problem so that you can tell a mechanic what to do to experience the problem. That is where the troubleshooting begins.
A reputable shop should be able to figure this out and tell you what is wrong. The only barrier is if they cannot repeat the problem you are experiencing.
What are you doing exactly that you need torque specs?
2 suggestions for sources with torque specs:
– Your local public library probably has a subscription to AllData. You’ll have to go to the library, but you can sit at one of their computers and connect to the alldata site. Ask a reference librarian if you are unsure.– Every car made seems to have a forum, why not one for Cavaliers? Search for a forum and you might find they have factory repair manuals online or someone who can answer your question
What are you doing exactly that you need torque specs?
2 suggestions for sources with torque specs:
– Your local public library probably has a subscription to AllData. You’ll have to go to the library, but you can sit at one of their computers and connect to the alldata site. Ask a reference librarian if you are unsure.– Every car made seems to have a forum, why not one for Cavaliers? Search for a forum and you might find they have factory repair manuals online or someone who can answer your question
It seems you are aware that this car will be gutless – though I agree it should rev past 3000rpm in drive. I’m afraid you can’t rule out transmission issue, but obviously check things out before jumping to that ugly possibility.
A grinding noise while turning certainly sounds like a potential bad wheel bearing. But a wheel bearing that is ready to seize up would certainly be noticeable by a mechanic in a test drive.
The only other problem that comes to mind is a brake issue. Check the parking brake cable and the brake lines at the wheels. Is it possible that you are engaging one or more brake especially while turning?
Good luck.It seems you are aware that this car will be gutless – though I agree it should rev past 3000rpm in drive. I’m afraid you can’t rule out transmission issue, but obviously check things out before jumping to that ugly possibility.
A grinding noise while turning certainly sounds like a potential bad wheel bearing. But a wheel bearing that is ready to seize up would certainly be noticeable by a mechanic in a test drive.
The only other problem that comes to mind is a brake issue. Check the parking brake cable and the brake lines at the wheels. Is it possible that you are engaging one or more brake especially while turning?
Good luck.Sounds like you’ve narrowed it down to the alternator or AC compressor. My guess is AC compressor.
Alternator pulley should spin easily by hand. So should the AC compressor pulley unless there is a problem with the clutch. The AC compressor pulley uses an electrically operated clutch to engage. If the compressor is not engaged then the pulley spins easily by hand. If the clutch is engaged then that pulley would be hard to turn – as it is when the AC compressor is running. From the HVAC control panel on your dash make sure you have not selected defrost. Defrost will sometimes engage AC compressor even if AC is not explicitly chosen. Make sure AC is off. Also check connectors to the AC compressor. There is usually a connector for a pressure switch and the compressor clutch. Maybe something got disconnected during the recent repair.Sounds like you’ve narrowed it down to the alternator or AC compressor. My guess is AC compressor.
Alternator pulley should spin easily by hand. So should the AC compressor pulley unless there is a problem with the clutch. The AC compressor pulley uses an electrically operated clutch to engage. If the compressor is not engaged then the pulley spins easily by hand. If the clutch is engaged then that pulley would be hard to turn – as it is when the AC compressor is running. From the HVAC control panel on your dash make sure you have not selected defrost. Defrost will sometimes engage AC compressor even if AC is not explicitly chosen. Make sure AC is off. Also check connectors to the AC compressor. There is usually a connector for a pressure switch and the compressor clutch. Maybe something got disconnected during the recent repair.The only thing that makes sense is that the belts or the puleys they are driving are creating a lot of resistance 2 starting the car. Make sure all of your pulleys spin freely and the belts are not too tight. Let us know what you find. Good luck
The only thing that makes sense is that the belts or the puleys they are driving are creating a lot of resistance 2 starting the car. Make sure all of your pulleys spin freely and the belts are not too tight. Let us know what you find. Good luck