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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=74338]If the gauge moved when you unplugged the sensor, it’s not the gauge. It sounds like you’ve either got a bad gauge or a wiring problem.
Forget about the white wire under the dash. I’m sure it isn’t related.[/quote]
My obd2 reader shows the coolant temperature! so.. im just down to the gauge now being faulty.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=74338]If the gauge moved when you unplugged the sensor, it’s not the gauge. It sounds like you’ve either got a bad gauge or a wiring problem.
Forget about the white wire under the dash. I’m sure it isn’t related.[/quote]
My obd2 reader shows the coolant temperature! so.. im just down to the gauge now being faulty.
[quote=”Tomh” post=73934]Don’t worry too much about that white wire right now, it looks like something left over from a stereo, alarm, or maybe remote starter install. I don’t believe that is any part of your original wiring, nor do I believe it has anything to do with your temp gauge issue.
First question, did you replace the temp sensor originally because of this exact problem, or did this problem occur after you put the new temp sensor it?
Now then, really, it isn’t possible to completely trouble shoot this without getting a multimeter. They aren’t terribly expensive. Here in New York, I can get one from Harbor Freight tools for around $6 or so that will do the job.
Ground is the Negative terminal of your battery (black side) and also, it is any bare piece of metal such as the engine block, cylinder head, or bolts that go into the body of the car. All of those are ground.
The sensor that controls your temp gauge is a single wire sensor, so to test it for resistance, you set your multimeter to resistance (Ohms), connect the black wire from the multimeter to a good clean ground connection (if there is rust / dirt / corrosion it will affect your reading, so scrape it clean if needed) and hold the red lead to the contact on the sensor (obviously, remove the wiring harness from the sensor first). Do this once with the engine fully cold, and once with it warmed up.
If the numbers are within the range specified in the shop manual, then the sensor is good, and since the gauge drops to cold when you remove the wiring from the sensor, I am going to say that the wiring is good too, so that would lead me to believe that the issue would be in the guage.
If the resistance is NOT within the range specified in the shop manual, then obviously, your new temp sending unit is bad, get the store to swap it out for you.[/quote]
sorry i just can’t do that, i’ll replace the sending unit again, if that doesn’t work it’s definitely my gauge…
which is unusual because it can go from cold to hot normally? so why can’t it just work.
[quote=”Tomh” post=73934]Don’t worry too much about that white wire right now, it looks like something left over from a stereo, alarm, or maybe remote starter install. I don’t believe that is any part of your original wiring, nor do I believe it has anything to do with your temp gauge issue.
First question, did you replace the temp sensor originally because of this exact problem, or did this problem occur after you put the new temp sensor it?
Now then, really, it isn’t possible to completely trouble shoot this without getting a multimeter. They aren’t terribly expensive. Here in New York, I can get one from Harbor Freight tools for around $6 or so that will do the job.
Ground is the Negative terminal of your battery (black side) and also, it is any bare piece of metal such as the engine block, cylinder head, or bolts that go into the body of the car. All of those are ground.
The sensor that controls your temp gauge is a single wire sensor, so to test it for resistance, you set your multimeter to resistance (Ohms), connect the black wire from the multimeter to a good clean ground connection (if there is rust / dirt / corrosion it will affect your reading, so scrape it clean if needed) and hold the red lead to the contact on the sensor (obviously, remove the wiring harness from the sensor first). Do this once with the engine fully cold, and once with it warmed up.
If the numbers are within the range specified in the shop manual, then the sensor is good, and since the gauge drops to cold when you remove the wiring from the sensor, I am going to say that the wiring is good too, so that would lead me to believe that the issue would be in the guage.
If the resistance is NOT within the range specified in the shop manual, then obviously, your new temp sending unit is bad, get the store to swap it out for you.[/quote]
sorry i just can’t do that, i’ll replace the sending unit again, if that doesn’t work it’s definitely my gauge…
which is unusual because it can go from cold to hot normally? so why can’t it just work.
[quote=”Tomh” post=73941]A good rule of thumb: When ever a new problem pops up right after you have fixed something, a good place to look is at what you just fixed.
If all of the hose connections / clamps are positioned properly, and tightened as they should be, then I would be very suspicious of the water pump. How many miles on the water pump / timing belt? I’m not exactly sure about the 1999, but my 1994 suggests changing the belt every 90k, and it is a good practice to go ahead and change the water pump at the same time.[/quote]
what’s weird is it’s been more than a day now and i drove it several times and it magically stopped leaking?
also the timing belt and water pump were replaced at 67k, i have 127k right now. so not even 60k on them.
[quote=”Tomh” post=73941]A good rule of thumb: When ever a new problem pops up right after you have fixed something, a good place to look is at what you just fixed.
If all of the hose connections / clamps are positioned properly, and tightened as they should be, then I would be very suspicious of the water pump. How many miles on the water pump / timing belt? I’m not exactly sure about the 1999, but my 1994 suggests changing the belt every 90k, and it is a good practice to go ahead and change the water pump at the same time.[/quote]
what’s weird is it’s been more than a day now and i drove it several times and it magically stopped leaking?
also the timing belt and water pump were replaced at 67k, i have 127k right now. so not even 60k on them.
[quote=”Avender” post=73925]Yes i realize you replaced the sensor already.
[/quote]ok heres an update: there is no fuse#15 on driver door jamb, passengers #15 is for power windows.
next off, i opened driver fuse box and noticed a white wire, not attached to anything, seems to be cut off…
looking at the wiring diagram, the sending unit wire is yellow, but branches into a yellow/white wire inside the cluster?
here’s a picture, no idea where it leads to and where it’s coming from.
[URL=http://s570.photobucket.com/user/davidgirgis/media/IMG_20130927_011318_999_zps129c3479.jpg.html][IMG]http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss141/davidgirgis/IMG_20130927_011318_999_zps129c3479.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[quote=”Avender” post=73925]Yes i realize you replaced the sensor already.
[/quote]ok heres an update: there is no fuse#15 on driver door jamb, passengers #15 is for power windows.
next off, i opened driver fuse box and noticed a white wire, not attached to anything, seems to be cut off…
looking at the wiring diagram, the sending unit wire is yellow, but branches into a yellow/white wire inside the cluster?
here’s a picture, no idea where it leads to and where it’s coming from.
[URL=http://s570.photobucket.com/user/davidgirgis/media/IMG_20130927_011318_999_zps129c3479.jpg.html][IMG]http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss141/davidgirgis/IMG_20130927_011318_999_zps129c3479.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[quote=”Avender” post=73923]Well… It’s either the gauge or the sensor. Make sure the cooling system has no air pockets in it. This one wire sensor is direct to the gauge.
I’m gonna try to find the test image.[/quote]
with it plugged in, gauge goes straight up to hot…
with it unplugged, it stays down on cold(like the car is off)
the temperature sensor is new aswell.. no air pockets, just got a new radiator and it was bled
[quote=”Avender” post=73923]Well… It’s either the gauge or the sensor. Make sure the cooling system has no air pockets in it. This one wire sensor is direct to the gauge.
I’m gonna try to find the test image.[/quote]
with it plugged in, gauge goes straight up to hot…
with it unplugged, it stays down on cold(like the car is off)
the temperature sensor is new aswell.. no air pockets, just got a new radiator and it was bled
[quote=”Avender” post=73921]With it disconnected, check your resistance of the sensor to ground. When cold, how many Ohms? Warm the car up. What are the Ohms when warm?
Is this a one wire sensor circuit? Haven’t got my wiring diagram readily available right now to see if this reading is relayed to the IC from another module or if it’s a direct circuit to the IC.[/quote]
sorry i’m not that technical, don’t have any ohm reader or whatever it’s called and wouldn’t know how to use one…
i don’t know where the grounds are either.
[quote=”Avender” post=73921]With it disconnected, check your resistance of the sensor to ground. When cold, how many Ohms? Warm the car up. What are the Ohms when warm?
Is this a one wire sensor circuit? Haven’t got my wiring diagram readily available right now to see if this reading is relayed to the IC from another module or if it’s a direct circuit to the IC.[/quote]
sorry i’m not that technical, don’t have any ohm reader or whatever it’s called and wouldn’t know how to use one…
i don’t know where the grounds are either.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=73760]In my experience that’s not a common problem. Since you already replaced the sensor, perhaps your issue is in the dash. You might unplug the sensor and observe the gauge to see if there is a change. If there isn’t, then perhaps the issue is in the cluster and not a problem with the sending uint. Also, it would be a good idea to check all the wiring and connections.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Ok so i removed the sending unit connection and the gauge dropped! So does that mean my new sending unit is faulty?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=73760]In my experience that’s not a common problem. Since you already replaced the sensor, perhaps your issue is in the dash. You might unplug the sensor and observe the gauge to see if there is a change. If there isn’t, then perhaps the issue is in the cluster and not a problem with the sending uint. Also, it would be a good idea to check all the wiring and connections.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Ok so i removed the sending unit connection and the gauge dropped! So does that mean my new sending unit is faulty?
[quote=”Ccagno15″ post=73701]What makes you think your cooling system isn’t holding pressure?[/quote]
my radiator cracked(i just suspected it was common Honda rad problem)
so i filled it with water and drove another 15 miles like that to the shop..it wasn’t leaking excessive coolant, just spraying out some every once in a while…