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The EML does come on occasionally, but it just says “N/A” on my scanner, and unfortunately i dont have a scanner capable of live data.
Also, this vehicle doesnt have a mass air flow sensor fitted.
The 4th plug was normal, if not a slight bit whiter then the rest and as i say the exhuast system cat onwards is brand new so i would have thought not, however it is going back to where the exhaust was fitted next week.I dont have access to one right now, but im trying to see if a friend of my dads will let me borrow hes one for 10 minuites or so. Failing that, is there a way i can check the resistance of the sensor to make sure its not had it? Or backprobe the wiring to get a voltage out of it?
I dont have access to one right now, but im trying to see if a friend of my dads will let me borrow hes one for 10 minuites or so. Failing that, is there a way i can check the resistance of the sensor to make sure its not had it? Or backprobe the wiring to get a voltage out of it?
Going upon my experience with fords (at least European fords!) a rough idle will be down to one of the following;
Spark plugs
HT Leads
Coilpack
Idle air control valve
MAP sensor (if applicable)
MAF sensor (if applicable (also known to cause a “popping” sound in the air box when faulty))
Or an air leak.There is one other thing i would suggest but this is whether or not it applies on your vehicle or not, but the power steering pressure switch causes a “up and down” idle usually because the wires frey.
I know i’ve mentioned a few things you have already tried, but i thought mentioning everything would help anyone else who has the same problem and finds this thread.
I hope one of the above solves your problems!
Going upon my experience with fords (at least European fords!) a rough idle will be down to one of the following;
Spark plugs
HT Leads
Coilpack
Idle air control valve
MAP sensor (if applicable)
MAF sensor (if applicable (also known to cause a “popping” sound in the air box when faulty))
Or an air leak.There is one other thing i would suggest but this is whether or not it applies on your vehicle or not, but the power steering pressure switch causes a “up and down” idle usually because the wires frey.
I know i’ve mentioned a few things you have already tried, but i thought mentioning everything would help anyone else who has the same problem and finds this thread.
I hope one of the above solves your problems!
Wow, thanks for all the replies!
A new battery from my local parts store is around 59$ (£38) so it’s hardly going to break the bank. I’m glad you all have verified my beliefs, as i didnt want to jump the gun and find it was another problem.
Once i have replaced, i shall update!
Thanks again guys 🙂
Wow, thanks for all the replies!
A new battery from my local parts store is around 59$ (£38) so it’s hardly going to break the bank. I’m glad you all have verified my beliefs, as i didnt want to jump the gun and find it was another problem.
Once i have replaced, i shall update!
Thanks again guys 🙂
Sorry i forgot to add:
The catalytic converter itself is (must be) fine, as it passed the emissions test of the MOT which was recently done and all the numbers seemed to fit right within the middle of the limit.
Heres a screenshot, if anyone can make better sense out of it then me 🙂
[IMG]http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac224/_davey/20130130_210313.jpg[/IMG]Sorry i forgot to add:
The catalytic converter itself is (must be) fine, as it passed the emissions test of the MOT which was recently done and all the numbers seemed to fit right within the middle of the limit.
Heres a screenshot, if anyone can make better sense out of it then me 🙂
[IMG]http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac224/_davey/20130130_210313.jpg[/IMG]I strongly believe the code was only bought up, because of the breather hose problem i had only recently repaired. My crank case breather was split and actually loose on the manifold end too, resulting in the engine revving up to almost maximum which made me decide to strip apart the manifold and find it, at the time not knowing what was wrong.
It has since been replaced, but my knowledge of this area (mostly related to ETCG videos i might add!) leads me to believe that the code was bought up because of the extra air (where the breather pipe was not connected) was making the engine rev itself upto 2000rpm like it did, but that extra air wasn’t accounted for and the ECU couldn’t make sense of the extra air being drawn in and the o2 sensor saying “hey, what the hell man!”
As said i have replaced the breather, and made sure it is secure both ends. Would i be right in saying it’s okay to go ahead and forget that code now? I mean obviously if it comes back, yes, it means something else needs looking into.
This code has flashed up twice since i have owned the car (and above being my explanation (and fix!!) of why) but i have found a peice of paper in within the service book which had the code written down which tells me the previous owner got it too, but never bothered to fix it.
Anyhoo, thanks for all the responses guys.
I will also apologize now if i seem to ask alot of silly questions/ask for reassurance, as im currently studying motor vehicle service and repair at college.(p.s I did try to do what you did in the video Eric, of getting the two o2 sensor readings and checking if either one was way out but my friends machine was having a bit of a hissy fit so we gave it a miss)
I strongly believe the code was only bought up, because of the breather hose problem i had only recently repaired. My crank case breather was split and actually loose on the manifold end too, resulting in the engine revving up to almost maximum which made me decide to strip apart the manifold and find it, at the time not knowing what was wrong.
It has since been replaced, but my knowledge of this area (mostly related to ETCG videos i might add!) leads me to believe that the code was bought up because of the extra air (where the breather pipe was not connected) was making the engine rev itself upto 2000rpm like it did, but that extra air wasn’t accounted for and the ECU couldn’t make sense of the extra air being drawn in and the o2 sensor saying “hey, what the hell man!”
As said i have replaced the breather, and made sure it is secure both ends. Would i be right in saying it’s okay to go ahead and forget that code now? I mean obviously if it comes back, yes, it means something else needs looking into.
This code has flashed up twice since i have owned the car (and above being my explanation (and fix!!) of why) but i have found a peice of paper in within the service book which had the code written down which tells me the previous owner got it too, but never bothered to fix it.
Anyhoo, thanks for all the responses guys.
I will also apologize now if i seem to ask alot of silly questions/ask for reassurance, as im currently studying motor vehicle service and repair at college.(p.s I did try to do what you did in the video Eric, of getting the two o2 sensor readings and checking if either one was way out but my friends machine was having a bit of a hissy fit so we gave it a miss)
Oops – already cleared the codes.
I have looked around and there is no obvious a/c wiring (im fammilier with it as i used to own another fiesta before that had a/c) i have removed and tested the cooling fan and it deffinatly works!
Apparently if i unplug my coolant temperature sensor, and start the engine, it will bring the fan on automatically as a safety feature so i will give that a go when i next see my friend (incase it brings the darn light back on!)
Oops – already cleared the codes.
I have looked around and there is no obvious a/c wiring (im fammilier with it as i used to own another fiesta before that had a/c) i have removed and tested the cooling fan and it deffinatly works!
Apparently if i unplug my coolant temperature sensor, and start the engine, it will bring the fan on automatically as a safety feature so i will give that a go when i next see my friend (incase it brings the darn light back on!)
thank you for all the replies, i have now gone ahead and got myself some oil and a filter to change within the next day or so. i recently replaced the passenger side driveshaft oil seal as the gearbox was leaking from there and i have since changed the entire gearbox fluid and she straight away changes gear much easier 🙂
thank you for all the replies, i have now gone ahead and got myself some oil and a filter to change within the next day or so. i recently replaced the passenger side driveshaft oil seal as the gearbox was leaking from there and i have since changed the entire gearbox fluid and she straight away changes gear much easier 🙂