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OK.
First, if you’re going to replace parts and drive to the mechanic there’s no problem.
BUT –
Your mechanic will need to flush the system and it’s better that the condenser isn’t on it.
Why?
While flushing the system, if the condenser is on there, debris may get flushed into it and clog it. Modern condensers are nothing like the old days.
If I were you, I’d just rebuild the whole thing.
Mail order parts. Google shopping and check Amazon. I’ve gotten great deals on Amazon on occasion – NEW A/C Compressor $145 compared to $350+ locally and $212 for a re-man.
BUT ALWAYS SHOP! Amazon plays with their prices more than airlines do!!
Are those OEM brake pads?
Did this just start?
Is it only backing up?
Are those OEM brake pads?
Did this just start?
Is it only backing up?
Exedy tech support got back to me – fast! Those guys are great when it comes to questions.
They said everything sounds like it’s working fine. Many times, new clutches will feel a lot easier because of diaphragm spring curve and not having debris in the pivot ring area.
I still may have to bleed it again.
My OEM release bearing lasted almost 183,000 miles (the clutch was starting to show that copper looking “base” – I don’t know what to call it – so I think it was on its way out too.) So my point is; I think this will be the last clutch ever in this car.
On another note, my wife diagnosed me with poisoning (she’s a nurse practitioner). I was going crazy with the brake cleaner to get all that grease and dirt cleaned up and I was experiencing visual distortions. No other symptoms.
She’s real insistent that I use gloves when working on the cars because skin absorbs chemicals. Just think, a nicotine patch works because the skin absorbs the drug. And there’s also the fumes. I was outside but there wasn’t any breeze and I was sticking my head in the compartment ….
We need to be careful when using all these chemicals. Auto maintenance and well, cars in general, have a lot of toxic chemicals. I’m trying to find the cite, but auto techs have a really high incidence of cancer.
Exedy tech support got back to me – fast! Those guys are great when it comes to questions.
They said everything sounds like it’s working fine. Many times, new clutches will feel a lot easier because of diaphragm spring curve and not having debris in the pivot ring area.
I still may have to bleed it again.
My OEM release bearing lasted almost 183,000 miles (the clutch was starting to show that copper looking “base” – I don’t know what to call it – so I think it was on its way out too.) So my point is; I think this will be the last clutch ever in this car.
On another note, my wife diagnosed me with poisoning (she’s a nurse practitioner). I was going crazy with the brake cleaner to get all that grease and dirt cleaned up and I was experiencing visual distortions. No other symptoms.
She’s real insistent that I use gloves when working on the cars because skin absorbs chemicals. Just think, a nicotine patch works because the skin absorbs the drug. And there’s also the fumes. I was outside but there wasn’t any breeze and I was sticking my head in the compartment ….
We need to be careful when using all these chemicals. Auto maintenance and well, cars in general, have a lot of toxic chemicals. I’m trying to find the cite, but auto techs have a really high incidence of cancer.
Got it in. Boy my arms and chest are tired and sore from fighting to get the transmission back in!
The car is driving fine and everything.
It’s just that the clutch pedal is so easy to push now! I bled the system 3 times thinking there’s still air in it and it’s still really easy.
Got it in. Boy my arms and chest are tired and sore from fighting to get the transmission back in!
The car is driving fine and everything.
It’s just that the clutch pedal is so easy to push now! I bled the system 3 times thinking there’s still air in it and it’s still really easy.
I got it. I took the EGR/Thermostat housing off and the shift cable holder.
I got it. I took the EGR/Thermostat housing off and the shift cable holder.
That one &^%*&% fastener that I couldn’t get to – it’s labeled ‘1’ in View A. I know it looks wide open in the diagram, but it’s really tight – the thermostat housing is above it, the harness goes by it and the shift cable bracket is right next to it so getting a socket in there is impossible and there’s no room for a wrench.
I don’t know what to do. The car 183,000 miles on it and I’m tempted to give up.
That one &^%*&% fastener that I couldn’t get to – it’s labeled ‘1’ in View A. I know it looks wide open in the diagram, but it’s really tight – the thermostat housing is above it, the harness goes by it and the shift cable bracket is right next to it so getting a socket in there is impossible and there’s no room for a wrench.
I don’t know what to do. The car 183,000 miles on it and I’m tempted to give up.
Mine is slightly different. The directions in my Haynes manual and in the GM Service manual say nothing about getting to the fastener.
Mine is slightly different. The directions in my Haynes manual and in the GM Service manual say nothing about getting to the fastener.
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