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I’m convinced the EGR passages are clogged,….
Why?[i]
…while im driving, happens after the car reaches 55mph going down the highway at a steady cruise. [/i]
I am assuming that the car behaves itself at idle and slower driving speeds.If it is that erratic (surges and stumbles), I am inclined to think it is a PCM/ECU (Computer) problem or sensors. I don’t see MAP sensor mentioned in your post. Perhaps have that tested.
I would think a bad timing belt and bad valve adjustment would cause problems at all driving speeds, especially at idle – although I am not a Honda Tech.
The Mustang came out in 1964 for the price of $2,320.
In today’s dollars that would be $17, 683.
As far as houses are concerned, don’t forget that real estate is a very local business. Meaning, a house that went for $30,000 in 1964 could possibly be the same amount in blighted areas (or even worthless like in some parts of Detroit) and that same house in San Francisco could be worth millions. And even more in Hong Kong.
Oh yeah, the Volt.
I would suggest Consumer Report’s Annual auto edition – go to your local library if in the US. Other than that, have a look here.The Mustang came out in 1964 for the price of $2,320.
In today’s dollars that would be $17, 683.
As far as houses are concerned, don’t forget that real estate is a very local business. Meaning, a house that went for $30,000 in 1964 could possibly be the same amount in blighted areas (or even worthless like in some parts of Detroit) and that same house in San Francisco could be worth millions. And even more in Hong Kong.
Oh yeah, the Volt.
I would suggest Consumer Report’s Annual auto edition – go to your local library if in the US. Other than that, have a look here.Replace the compressor, ‘O’-rings, Accumulator, etc ..
You will need a vacuum pump and gauges.
Recharge to specs, and proper PAG for the oil, and be on your way.
I’m thinking …. $400 to fix your own problem. Maybe less … maybe more.
Will it last? Don’t know.
Get the factory service manual to know more.
Replace the compressor, ‘O’-rings, Accumulator, etc ..
You will need a vacuum pump and gauges.
Recharge to specs, and proper PAG for the oil, and be on your way.
I’m thinking …. $400 to fix your own problem. Maybe less … maybe more.
Will it last? Don’t know.
Get the factory service manual to know more.
See here: http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/resources/pages/InterchangeGuideResults.aspx?partnr=1040&page=1 – that’s NAPA Gold – at least for my car.
Purolator also makes the Silver lines.
I haven’t found out who makes NAPA’s “Platinum” lines yet.
So – my point – “Gold”, Platinum”, “Diamond”, “Dung” could be made by anyone with ANY quality. And considering WalMart’s reputation, I would think any filter made for them – they DO get special manufacturing lines set up just for them – that their filters are made out of cotton balls and old Chinese men’s scrotums.
See here: http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/resources/pages/InterchangeGuideResults.aspx?partnr=1040&page=1 – that’s NAPA Gold – at least for my car.
Purolator also makes the Silver lines.
I haven’t found out who makes NAPA’s “Platinum” lines yet.
So – my point – “Gold”, Platinum”, “Diamond”, “Dung” could be made by anyone with ANY quality. And considering WalMart’s reputation, I would think any filter made for them – they DO get special manufacturing lines set up just for them – that their filters are made out of cotton balls and old Chinese men’s scrotums.
ETCG –Just curious as to why this procedure would be necessary.
The Honda service manual for the ’01 – ’04 Civic says so.
It is done if you don’t have a scantool with bi-directional – REAL bi directional capabilities. I don’t have $$$$$$ for the Bosch and consumer versions do not have REAL OBD2 mode 08.
Never the less, it was a purge solenoid that was bad and I figured it out with a vacuum pump, a DVM and a 9v battery. It was also the first thing listed in the service manual under P1457 but I went for the Vent shutoff solenoid first because the Internet said that was the place to go.
Tested fine. So did the By-Pass valve. Canister held vacuum – but for the 0.020 requirement, that could be misleading.
As you (ETCG) say many many many times in your videos – “Get Data before buying parts!” – or something like that.
I have drunk the Eric Cook (ASE Master Tech) KoolAid and I live by that motto.
$41.65 later for the Purge solenoid, I fixed the EVAP (P1457) System, made my wife happy, and saved about $500 – more by dealer prices – and learned something – and looking back, had a good time. Yeah, it’s easy to say “had a good time” when my living isn’t depending on it ….
ETCG –Just curious as to why this procedure would be necessary.
The Honda service manual for the ’01 – ’04 Civic says so.
It is done if you don’t have a scantool with bi-directional – REAL bi directional capabilities. I don’t have $$$$$$ for the Bosch and consumer versions do not have REAL OBD2 mode 08.
Never the less, it was a purge solenoid that was bad and I figured it out with a vacuum pump, a DVM and a 9v battery. It was also the first thing listed in the service manual under P1457 but I went for the Vent shutoff solenoid first because the Internet said that was the place to go.
Tested fine. So did the By-Pass valve. Canister held vacuum – but for the 0.020 requirement, that could be misleading.
As you (ETCG) say many many many times in your videos – “Get Data before buying parts!” – or something like that.
I have drunk the Eric Cook (ASE Master Tech) KoolAid and I live by that motto.
$41.65 later for the Purge solenoid, I fixed the EVAP (P1457) System, made my wife happy, and saved about $500 – more by dealer prices – and learned something – and looking back, had a good time. Yeah, it’s easy to say “had a good time” when my living isn’t depending on it ….
Ah! So, you do not unplug anything – you stick those pins in (like back probing) and jump from there, yes?
Ah! So, you do not unplug anything – you stick those pins in (like back probing) and jump from there, yes?
[i]If I read this correctly. you would put the wire in B21 on
the diagnostic port.[/i]Yes, I understand that. But do you remove the connector from the ECU first and then insert the jumper into that terminal on the ECU or leave the connector in and back probe that terminal and ground the other end – which would seem unlikely since I think that would short the circuit and fry the ECU.
Can you post the procedure.
The rest of the procedure is irrelevent because my question is just how does one jump an ECU/PCM without ruining it?Besides, the rest of the procedure is just seeing if the valve holds a vacuum when turned on by the ECU.
[i]If I read this correctly. you would put the wire in B21 on
the diagnostic port.[/i]Yes, I understand that. But do you remove the connector from the ECU first and then insert the jumper into that terminal on the ECU or leave the connector in and back probe that terminal and ground the other end – which would seem unlikely since I think that would short the circuit and fry the ECU.
Can you post the procedure.
The rest of the procedure is irrelevent because my question is just how does one jump an ECU/PCM without ruining it?Besides, the rest of the procedure is just seeing if the valve holds a vacuum when turned on by the ECU.