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Cherokee Sport and Grand Cherokee are different models I don’t know much about the Grand Cherokee’s but my brother in law had one with 460,000 miles all original before it got totaled in a wreck.
I do do know the Cherokee’s before 2000 were nearly impossible to kill with normal maintenance but in 2000 they switched to a new head which was the 0331 head and it had a manufacturing flaw causing them to crack on a lot of them but not all so its confusing.
Straight 6 engines are usually more reliable. But every car is going to have its problems Honda’s, Chevy’s, Chrysler, Ford, Subaru, Nissan, Toyota, and so on all have there issues and bad ones in the bunch.
People these days assume that normal maintenance is just spark plugs and an oil change but its not and because of this they make good vehicles look bad.
I already watched that video, the actuator is fine no cracks, no dry rots, and the cable moves. The vacuum switch was replaced still no luck.
However earlier today I removed the TCCM to check for corrosion which it did not have any and put it back in and now it engages into 4hi and 4lo without issues but still will not engage into 2hi.
I might just replace the actuator next month since its the cheapest route and if that don’t work then go for a encoder motor replacement and if that don’t work then a TCCM replacement and eventually it should start working and it will all be brand new.
Bring it back to the guy who did the damage and refused to fix it or pay for it? no i’d rather do it myself.
It’s fixed now anyway, still needs some 4×4 work but 2hi and 4hi are working again.
4lo is out now and I am most likely going to convert it to a manual 4×4 system instead of vacuum/electronic.
There was a connector not connected on top of the transmission, it is now shifting correctly.
However the transfer case is still not working and it only seems to engage in to 4lo with the light flashing constantly when engaged. When you click 2hi it goes off but 2hi does not light up.
It seems to be acting like it is in RWD but I am not sure. What can be the cause of this is there a switch bad because the vacuum actuator under the battery tray looked fine it did not have tears or anything although it was sucked in. I checked the 4×4 fuse and it was fine but I replaced it anyway.
Yep the speedometer works just fine with the shift, RPM’s are steady when it shifts, no signs or feel of slipping, No clunking, No grinding.
And I know that if the car did slip or there was internal damage it is supposed to throw it in limp mode.
The fluid is a light brown with a red tinge to it. I already got the filter. I just need to order the fluid.
Mileage is 178,000 rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago and had zero issues. Engine replaced with one from an Astro van. Transfer case was rebuilt when the transmission was.
(Reason of the rebuild was because the original owner abused it with mudding and farm work but the body was in excellent condition so that is why the rebuild took place)
It was all new and there is no way it was on its way out it ran perfect before the seal was replaced.
I am going to dig into it myself tomorrow. I guess the saying goes if you want something done right you got to do it yourself.
Its destroyed.
Earlier today when running it to check the fluid level to ensure it was full (which it was) it started randomly switching back and forth from 4 hi to 4 lo non stop then all of a sudden the transfer case made a big cling which sounded like the drive shaft dropped (but it didn’t) so I am sure the transfer case is destroyed.
Also when that big cling happened the transmission made a grinding noise for a few seconds and it started rolling backwards in park and would not engage in any other gear.
Never again will I trust any shop or anybody to do this kind of job on my vehicles. A simple front main seal just when to $2000 worth of damage.
This is complete bullshit that thing had a lot of life left in it.
Wheel bearing, Have someone sit in the back while you drive it to help determine which side it is coming from. It can be hard to pinpoint in the driver seat its best to sit in the middle back seat.
I just did the passenger side rear wheel bearing/hub assembly on my 2003 Dodge Neon SXT. Should be pretty easy on the s2000.