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When you were bleeding the brakes with pedal action, don’t you have to push down the pedal and keep it down, then close the bleeder, then release the pedal, open the bleeder and push down again, close the bleeder and then let the pedal back up?
When the pedal is released, old fluid from the bottle gets sucked back into the line, right?
So how does that get rid of the remaining air? Why not gravity bleed until no more air instead of just gravity bleeding for part of the procedure?
Thanks. See http://www.youtube DOT com/watch?v=vOiHgP33CM4 at 26 minute markYour site fails at attempting to self embed youtube videos
Also, why use anti-seize on the specified corners of the brake pads, but not the same silicone paste you used on the slider pins. Doesn’t work as well as petroleum based anti-seize for brake pad quietness?
Sylvania Silverstars are completely DOT legal high end halogens.
@EricTheCarGuy, congrats on the HID install. If they work well for you don’t change a thing and don’t worry about tickets because there is no need to worry. Try to find youtube videos of people pulled over for HIDs, there aren’t many and usually just for too blue of bulbs. Therefore since there is no police worry, it’s just up to people to not be selfish and do a proper retrofit. But many reflector housings can spread the light on the road enough for better midrange/longrange night vision, with of course light going everywhere else too. Aim the headlights up a tad if there is too much foreground illumination. Look at install pics/videos of your car to see if it will work well for your housings.Eric could have done a bit more research before publishing this video but he did a good job except for that color temp technicality.
Sylvania Silverstars are completely DOT legal high end halogens.
@EricTheCarGuy, congrats on the HID install. If they work well for you don’t change a thing and don’t worry about tickets because there is no need to worry. Try to find youtube videos of people pulled over for HIDs, there aren’t many and usually just for too blue of bulbs. Therefore since there is no police worry, it’s just up to people to not be selfish and do a proper retrofit. But many reflector housings can spread the light on the road enough for better midrange/longrange night vision, with of course light going everywhere else too. Aim the headlights up a tad if there is too much foreground illumination. Look at install pics/videos of your car to see if it will work well for your housings.Eric could have done a bit more research before publishing this video but he did a good job except for that color temp technicality.
It’s funny how many people noticed Scotty did a video about a week before Eric did on HIDs. Cool coincidence?
I liked the video too. It was a very similar install to my setup with my 1999 Civic. Same headlight connector type.
Instead of Motorfiend that has a 1 year warranty, I’d get them from DDMtuning which has a true lifetime warranty. It’s the only brand i know that offers such a warranty and I’ve used the warranty more than once so I know it’s legit (see below). Also a 55w HID kit rather than the 35w kits that Motorfiend and most HID kit sites have. More bang for your buck, about 40% brighter. Also 5000K (pure white color) so there is more useable light and no police attraction.
Headlight/control unit connector; Instead of the zip tie, I wrapped it thoroughly with electrical tape so moisture hopefully won’t get in there.
That ballast by the exhaust manifold, I hope it doesn’t get too hot.I used lots of zip ties too. I have a 35 watt reverse HID system hooked up too, very useful on dark nights or when doing a “Rockford” at night. (joking)
Who cares if it’s illegal, you can’t get in much trouble and they are very useful in most headlights. The people who flash their headlights at you are just jealous 😉
If you need the stock headlight system to pass inspection, I don’t think it would be that big of a deal to swap in your halogen bulbs while keeping the existing HID system put together to pass inspection.55w ballasts are a bit harder on the bulbs, so they don’t last quite as long. If you drive a lot and leave the headlights on during the day too, you might find that a bulb goes out every year or two. I have used the warranty many times and DDM has always been great to me.
One of the main reasons why I went to HID is because I had crappy halogens before that never burnt out but had horrible output. Then I went to Philips NightGuides which were a lot better, but they go out every 9 months and they were $45 a pair with practically a nonexistant warranty!
So, I said screw it and went to HIDs since high end halogens are expensive and have a short lifespan. The HID kit wasn’t much more than a new pair of high end Halogens and it was a one time purchase.It’s funny how many people noticed Scotty did a video about a week before Eric did on HIDs. Cool coincidence?
I liked the video too. It was a very similar install to my setup with my 1999 Civic. Same headlight connector type.
Instead of Motorfiend that has a 1 year warranty, I’d get them from DDMtuning which has a true lifetime warranty. It’s the only brand i know that offers such a warranty and I’ve used the warranty more than once so I know it’s legit (see below). Also a 55w HID kit rather than the 35w kits that Motorfiend and most HID kit sites have. More bang for your buck, about 40% brighter. Also 5000K (pure white color) so there is more useable light and no police attraction.
Headlight/control unit connector; Instead of the zip tie, I wrapped it thoroughly with electrical tape so moisture hopefully won’t get in there.
That ballast by the exhaust manifold, I hope it doesn’t get too hot.I used lots of zip ties too. I have a 35 watt reverse HID system hooked up too, very useful on dark nights or when doing a “Rockford” at night. (joking)
Who cares if it’s illegal, you can’t get in much trouble and they are very useful in most headlights. The people who flash their headlights at you are just jealous 😉
If you need the stock headlight system to pass inspection, I don’t think it would be that big of a deal to swap in your halogen bulbs while keeping the existing HID system put together to pass inspection.55w ballasts are a bit harder on the bulbs, so they don’t last quite as long. If you drive a lot and leave the headlights on during the day too, you might find that a bulb goes out every year or two. I have used the warranty many times and DDM has always been great to me.
One of the main reasons why I went to HID is because I had crappy halogens before that never burnt out but had horrible output. Then I went to Philips NightGuides which were a lot better, but they go out every 9 months and they were $45 a pair with practically a nonexistant warranty!
So, I said screw it and went to HIDs since high end halogens are expensive and have a short lifespan. The HID kit wasn’t much more than a new pair of high end Halogens and it was a one time purchase.[quote=”DoorBreaker” post=58368]Hey on a slightly different topic. For anyone in NY the laws on replacement convertors changes June 1st. The new law requires all replacement units to be CARB certified. Expect the price to go up from 20 – 75% on all the units sold because there are very few that can be certified.[/quote]
People will probably still just buy the regular plug and play kits. Do you have a link?[quote=”DoorBreaker” post=58368]Hey on a slightly different topic. For anyone in NY the laws on replacement convertors changes June 1st. The new law requires all replacement units to be CARB certified. Expect the price to go up from 20 – 75% on all the units sold because there are very few that can be certified.[/quote]
People will probably still just buy the regular plug and play kits. Do you have a link?You’ll find that older cars are sometimes more reliable than newer cars, like 1990s Honda Civics/Accords. If you keep the fluid clean and don’t go nuts with them they are very reliable (besides needing an updated new ignition switch part# and maybe an updated rear trailing arm bushings.
You’ll find that older cars are sometimes more reliable than newer cars, like 1990s Honda Civics/Accords. If you keep the fluid clean and don’t go nuts with them they are very reliable (besides needing an updated new ignition switch part# and maybe an updated rear trailing arm bushings.
[quote=”Passey” post=58119]
2. Fuel pumps in the gas tank with electricity I’m just curious who decided that would be a good idea to try? I know they have alot more pressure than the old mechanical ones but how would this cross your mind “lets put a cylinder thing in a pool of gas and add electrical current”[/quote]There is no oxygen in the gas, the gas pump is always submerged (unless you run dry). So unless it runs dry, there is no way a spark from the pump can cause ignition
[quote=”Passey” post=58119]
2. Fuel pumps in the gas tank with electricity I’m just curious who decided that would be a good idea to try? I know they have alot more pressure than the old mechanical ones but how would this cross your mind “lets put a cylinder thing in a pool of gas and add electrical current”[/quote]There is no oxygen in the gas, the gas pump is always submerged (unless you run dry). So unless it runs dry, there is no way a spark from the pump can cause ignition
Like BMW removing the transmission AND engine oil dipstick and I think it’s VW that requires a special tool to measure transmission fluid levels. Making it more difficult for DIYers to do stuff under the hood. BMW requiring you to replace the transmission fluid from down below with a fluid pump!
Apple using proprietary screw types for no reason.
Some might say it is a case of overengineering (making it more complex for no reason), others say it is to get more cars into the dealership repair shops. Other say it is natural and is necessary to make a more refined car. Ugh.
Cars are more complex these days with tighter tolerances, more parts, more electronics and that IS the natural progression of things. But certain design decisions make no sense from any point of view.
I’m in school for Computer Engineering/EE with an interest in automobiles, will be interestingLike BMW removing the transmission AND engine oil dipstick and I think it’s VW that requires a special tool to measure transmission fluid levels. Making it more difficult for DIYers to do stuff under the hood. BMW requiring you to replace the transmission fluid from down below with a fluid pump!
Apple using proprietary screw types for no reason.
Some might say it is a case of overengineering (making it more complex for no reason), others say it is to get more cars into the dealership repair shops. Other say it is natural and is necessary to make a more refined car. Ugh.
Cars are more complex these days with tighter tolerances, more parts, more electronics and that IS the natural progression of things. But certain design decisions make no sense from any point of view.
I’m in school for Computer Engineering/EE with an interest in automobiles, will be interesting