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A few thoughts, first the spark plug seal is on the outside of the threads so no way to get penetrating oil to the threads until they are already broken loose and backed out a turn.
And as always since you didn’t say what plugs you bought, this is the D.I.S. version of the Vulcan 3.0 so being waste spark you can’t use single platinum plugs. Iridium, double platinum, and conventional are fine, though I have no experience with which of the 3 this engine likes best. I’d probably just go with the O.E. ones.
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If this is one of the cheap ELM327 clones stuff like this is to be expected. I have one myself and on a Chevrolet Lumina sedan I could make the PCM crash and reboot causing an engine stall if I polled a certain PID. On the 2000s GMs it wouldn’t even connect at all.
In my case I upgraded to the OBDLink MX Bluetooth, which itself is far from perfect but miles better than the cheapie. Its issue is locking up and refusing to connect until it is power cycled by unplugging it for a few seconds.
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It requires more than that. If you don’t have what I call a triple R machine (recover, recycle, recharge) then you have to do it all manually with the proper tools. You need:
Digital or proper scale analog gauges with low loss or core depressor and ball valve ends. Proper scale means 120PSI before retard on the low side gauge and a temp scale for the refrigerant in question.
A charging scale to weigh in refrigerant.
A 2 stage vacuum pump with new vacuum pump oil. Not single stage or air operated.
A micron vacuum gauge.
A cylinder of dry inert gas like nitrogen for leak checking.
Thermometers for vent temp and also preferably some clamp on ones so you can verify proper subcooling or superheat when applicable.
If converting to 134a you need the biggest parallel flow condenser that you can fit in front of the radiator, and it needs proper airflow. Seal the gaps around the edges between the condenser and radiator and if you don’t have a fan shroud either try to install one or upgrade to electric fans with an alternator upgrade to match.
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If it hasn’t already been done upgrade from the CSFI spider to the later style MPFI one. The instructions on how to do so are readily available online.
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Pressing the brake pedal disables the torque converter clutch from locking. You need a scan tool that can display tcc slip speed, which is a GM specific PID. I have experienced the exact surging you describe on a 1997 Lumina and it too was a TCC issue.
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[quote=”fredsmythson” post=176585]I have a 1996 Ford Thunderbird with a 4.6L engine. The car had some freon leaks in the AC system. I replaced the high and low pressure lines, dryer/accumulator, orifice tube and compressor. I charged up the AC system, but I’m getting some weird pressure readings from the manifold gauge.
Here are the psi readings:
AC on – normal setting = 60 psi low side / 340 psi high side
AC on – max setting = 58 psi low side / 330 psi high side
AC off – 120 psi low side / 140 psi high sideAll these pressures seemed to be too high. Temps coming out of the vents were around 55F degrees. Also, the AC compressor did not cycle on and off. The clutch would just stay engaged while the AC system was turned on. When I added the first can of freon, the compressor did cycle on and off – probably as a result of that the system was low on freon and hadn’t been fully charged yet.
I was working on the car in a city located in the Southern California desert, so the outside temperature was around 105F degrees. Would a high ambient temperature cause higher than normal AC pressure readings? Also, would the hot weather cause the AC compressor to constantly be engaged when the AC system is on? Are there any other AC system components I can look at to see why the system pressure is so high? Thanks![/quote]
First, 134a refrigerant is not a Freon, Freon is a DuPont Chemicals trademark, and they call R-134a “Suva”.Second Pressures by themselves are meaningless as they are dependent on temperature.
Third what micron level did you vacuum the system down to? That tiny vacuum section of an A/C low side gauge that reads 0-30″ is only accurate if you are at sea level since it reads relative to atmospheric pressure. A micron vacuum gauge reads absolute, and 1″ of vacuum is 25,400 microns, so 0 on a mechanical vacuum gauge is about 760,000 microns. A system is supposed to be vacuumed to less than 500 microns and then isolated and checked to make sure that it doesn’t rise above 1000. That tiny change won’t even make the needle twitch on a mechanical gauge.
I would be making sure that you have everything outside of the refrigerant loop correct first, radiator fans operating correctly, seal the perimeter of the gap between the condenser and radiator, make sure both are clean, etc.
One way to have a sensitive ammeter that can also handle large current surges would be to have 2 huge diodes rated for the max current expected in inverse parallel giving you a max voltage drop of 1 volt or less for standard silicon diodes. Also in parallel with the diodes would be a resistor and a voltmeter, say you use a 1 ohm resistor then amps would directly equal volts, IE your 10mA would become 10mV but be soft capped by the diodes starting at about .6V so any reading above .6 amps wouldn’t be accurate but at least you would know that it was at or above that current when it shouldn’t be.
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You have the general idea of it, but the steps are actually ideally:
Recover refrigerant
Break slight vacuum with dry inert gas (Nitrogen)
Remove old parts
Plug lines
See if any oil is in the old condenser and receiver drier
Install new parts, adding oil as necessary when connecting them
Pressurize with dry inert gas to check for leaks
If no leaks under pressure then release pressure and connect vacuum pump and micron gauge
Vacuum to <500 microns then isolate system and make sure vacuum doesn't rise above 1000 microns. If the vacuum steadily rises you have a leak under vacuum, if it rises in jumps and then stabilizes you have moisture in the system. This will require a good 2 stage pump with fresh oil, a single stage probably won't work and an air operated venturi vacuum pump won't even make the micron gauge give a reading
If all OK then disconnect vacuum pump and connect refrigerant source on charging scale, but beware if using a standard 2 valve manifold with a single center port that you will have trapped air in the center, so preferably use a 4 valve manifold or a 2 valve with a tee center port and pull a vacuum on the hose to the refrigerant cylinder as well, using a valve in the hose to the vacuum pump or if it has one the valve in the pump itself. Make sure the manifold you use has the thumb screw core depressors on the quick connect fittings
Zero charging scale
Crack open cylinder valve long enough to break vacuum to just above atmospheric with refrigerant then disconnect vacuum pump
Note reading on scale, invert refrigerant cylinder to draw liquid and fully open cylinder valve
Zero scale again
Charge liquid only into the high side of the system stopping if the required system weight is reached, if not and the pressure equalizes first close the high side valve
Note reading on scale again and add to first reading, flip cylinder back upright for vapor, then zero scale again
Start engine, set controls for blower on highest speed and coldest temp
Slowly charge vapor into suction/low side to add remaining required amount of refrigerant
Monitor system for proper operation
Close refrigerant cylinder valve and high side thumb screw, but leave hoses connected
Slowly open both valves on manifold and let system operate for a few minutes to purge liquid trapped in high side hose back into the system
Set blower to low speed
When low side pressure is as low as possible close low side thumb screw then manifold valves then disconnect all hoses, at this point you should have A/C that works better than it has in quite some time.
Some notes:
134a refrigerant is not a Freon, DuPont calls it Suva.
Definitions, recover is to remove the refrigerant from the system and put it in a cylinder. Recycle is to use a self contained machine to purify the refrigerant as much as possible, IE remove any oil, moisture, acids, air, Etc. Reclaim is when a certified lab does the recycling but has the test gear to certify that the refrigerant is as pure as it was when it was new/virgin.
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And vacuum with a proper 2 stage pump with fresh oil and a micron vacuum gauge.
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I have used 2 myself, a cheap ELM clone, (the tiny translucent blue one with a tab on the connector) and an OBDLink MX. The cheap one worked for the most part but had issues on GM vehicles, mainly that it would not communicate at all with ’00s models and on some ’90s models there were certain PIDs that would crash and reboot the PCM causing the engine to stall if at idle and stumble if above idle.
The MX is far from perfect also, it works with everything that I have plugged it into so far but has locked up a couple times and had to be power cycled by unplugging it. Also it can only be paired with 2 devices at a time so I have to re-pair it every time I switch devices.Either way the info that can be obtained varies wildly with what vehicle you are in, a 3.6l 5th gen Chrysler van has PIDs galore, some others have very few. My favorite PIDs though are fuel trims and the GM specific ones like misfire history, knock retard and oil life percent. KR is great as it tells you if you need to use a higher octane rating fuel.
Also be aware that Bluetooth devices will not work with an Apple iOS device as iOS doesn’t allow Bluetooth SPP (serial port protocol).
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This is likely the usual Denso OSGR starter that is used in dozens of applications in various mounting configurations, tooth counts, and kilowatt ratings, they all have 2 things in common: they are great starters, and they have the Achilles heel of having the solenoid contacts wear out resulting in only the loud click of the solenoid plunger pulling in. If you are capable of removing the starter from the engine you should also be capable of replacing the contacts and plunger, it is far cheaper than buying a reman starter.
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DFCO is deceleration fuel cut-off, IE closed throttle fuel cut mode where the engine isn’t running, it is just being spun by the wheels. This loads the cat up with oxygen since air is passing through the engine unused. Exit means when the PCM starts injecting fuel again, it intentionally goes way rich to send oxygen depleted gasses through the cat, it then measures the time difference between when the upstream sensor goes rich and when the cat is depleted of stored oxygen causing the downstream to also go rich. The more seconds of storage the healthier the cat is. If there are too few seconds of oxygen storage it knows that the cat is weak and it sets the P0420. See ScannerDanner’s “How to Test a Catalytic Converter” on YouTube.
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Be aware that the Toyota hybrids don’t actually have a CVT in the conventional sense, with conventional being a variable pitch pulley system AKA cone and belt.
The Toyota hybrids are just called E-CVT because that is the closest existing category to lump them into. How they work is a planetary gear called the power split device and the 2 motor-generators. MG2 is connected to the final drive and ring gear, MG1 is connected to the sun gear, and the engine is connected to the planet carrier. The effective gear ratio is controlled by the speed and direction difference between the 3 components. If MG1 freewheels it is neutral, if it is turning faster than the engine and is generating power to feed MG2 it is a low gear, if it is turning slower than the engine or even backwards it is overdrive. To turn backwards the roles are reversed so power is actually drawn from MG2 to drive MG1, causing a recirculation of energy.
A note on the Prius specifically: be aware that the core purpose of this model is for low lung damaging emissions and it can and does sacrifice MPG for the sake of being cleaner. This means if you have many short trips of less than 20 minutes or so it won’t get very good fuel economy. This has always been true, the NHW11 model had the HCAC system, basically a special catalytic converter which trapped the cold start unburned fuel, the NHW20 had the hot coolant storage “Thermos” (vacuum Dewar) to help it heat up faster, and the ZVW30 you are considering has exhaust heat recovery, basically a coolant jacket around the exhaust system.