[Daniel]

Hello Eric! I can really recommend this spring compressor tool: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil—MC/Verktyg-och-Verkstadsutrustning/Chassi/Fjaderspannare-191355/

I have it and it works great! Superfast, easy and safe to use. You use it with an impact gun. It fits all sizes of springs. The area where the coil contacts the tool is slightly tapered to make the spring not slip out, instead it is more firmly held in the tool when compressed. It’s around 415 US dollars.

If you plan on getting a new tool after that near death experience, get this one!

Cheers Daniel.

[Daniel]

Hello Eric! I can really recommend this spring compressor tool: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil—MC/Verktyg-och-Verkstadsutrustning/Chassi/Fjaderspannare-191355/

I have it and it works great! Superfast, easy and safe to use. You use it with an impact gun. It fits all sizes of springs. The area where the coil contacts the tool is slightly tapered to make the spring not slip out, instead it is more firmly held in the tool when compressed. It’s around 415 US dollars.

If you plan on getting a new tool after that near death experience, get this one!

Cheers Daniel.

[Daniel]

Hey, just to give you guys an update on the O2 problem with the old Volvo, the guy traded it in for another car at som dealer in another town.

However, I do have a strong feeling now that the fault lied in the wiring, as he had to replace the battery, and after fiddling with the wires (since the car had a battery with the terminals on the wrong sides before) the light Went out for a day or two. Then it came on again and stayed like that for 2 months before he sold it.

So it will be someone elses headache now!

Thanks for the help you provided guys!

/ Daniel

[Daniel]

Hey, just to give you guys an update on the O2 problem with the old Volvo, the guy traded it in for another car at som dealer in another town.

However, I do have a strong feeling now that the fault lied in the wiring, as he had to replace the battery, and after fiddling with the wires (since the car had a battery with the terminals on the wrong sides before) the light Went out for a day or two. Then it came on again and stayed like that for 2 months before he sold it.

So it will be someone elses headache now!

Thanks for the help you provided guys!

/ Daniel

[Daniel]

The battery is old and will not hold a good charge. It will only read 12.1 – 12.2 Volts. And the positive terminal gets hot enough to burn your fingers when the Engine is running.
The alternator´s output voltage is correct though.

Yes, an ECM is expensive, but he was gonna try to get a hold of a used one.

My next step would be to measure the other sensors heater Circuit voltage. Maybe I should have done that already but I missed that.

Come to Think of it, if the connectors are the same, I might try switching them over to see if the problem moves, or remains the same.
If it moves, it should be the wiring/ECM or other, and that would indicate that the new sensor is capable of working.

If it stays the same with the rear sensor wires on the front sensor, I would say it´s the sensor.
Right?

[Daniel]

The battery is old and will not hold a good charge. It will only read 12.1 – 12.2 Volts. And the positive terminal gets hot enough to burn your fingers when the Engine is running.
The alternator´s output voltage is correct though.

Yes, an ECM is expensive, but he was gonna try to get a hold of a used one.

My next step would be to measure the other sensors heater Circuit voltage. Maybe I should have done that already but I missed that.

Come to Think of it, if the connectors are the same, I might try switching them over to see if the problem moves, or remains the same.
If it moves, it should be the wiring/ECM or other, and that would indicate that the new sensor is capable of working.

If it stays the same with the rear sensor wires on the front sensor, I would say it´s the sensor.
Right?

[Daniel]

I just had Another go at this thing. When turning on the key, there is a steady supply of 9 Volts going to the heater.
Why 9 Volts?
When viewing “live data” from my scanner, with Engine stopped, the working rear sensor shows a 0.000 Volts signal.
The front sensor Always shows a 0.500 Volt signal. This Reading stays the same when the Engine is running. The rear is switching normally between 0.1 and 0.9.

The cars owner now wants to try a new ECU, but we failed in removing the old one. No matter how much we pried and hammered away at the Purple colored lock tabs it just would not come loose. It´s as if the Connectors are melted or corroded in Place. We gave it a good 2 hours but could not get it loose. I have never seen something like this.

Also the battery is shot, don´t know if this is making matters worse.

What do you guys make of this?

I´m at wit´s end.

[Daniel]

I just had Another go at this thing. When turning on the key, there is a steady supply of 9 Volts going to the heater.
Why 9 Volts?
When viewing “live data” from my scanner, with Engine stopped, the working rear sensor shows a 0.000 Volts signal.
The front sensor Always shows a 0.500 Volt signal. This Reading stays the same when the Engine is running. The rear is switching normally between 0.1 and 0.9.

The cars owner now wants to try a new ECU, but we failed in removing the old one. No matter how much we pried and hammered away at the Purple colored lock tabs it just would not come loose. It´s as if the Connectors are melted or corroded in Place. We gave it a good 2 hours but could not get it loose. I have never seen something like this.

Also the battery is shot, don´t know if this is making matters worse.

What do you guys make of this?

I´m at wit´s end.

[Daniel]

Thanks, if he decides to go with another sensor I will tell him to get this one.

I don´t know how many times I have cleared that code now, I can always do it one more time. Haha.

[Daniel]

Thanks, if he decides to go with another sensor I will tell him to get this one.

I don´t know how many times I have cleared that code now, I can always do it one more time. Haha.

[Daniel]

These testers are cheap and easy to use. Just put it where the fuse goes, then put the fuse in the tool to protect the Circuit.

[Daniel]

These testers are cheap and easy to use. Just put it where the fuse goes, then put the fuse in the tool to protect the Circuit.

[Daniel]

Sweden. It´s actually closer to $375 now that I checked. Geez.

I will make sure there is power going to it first.

[Daniel]

Sweden. It´s actually closer to $375 now that I checked. Geez.

I will make sure there is power going to it first.

[Daniel]

Thanks, If I am to measure voltage through the heater circuit, when will/should there be 12 Volts going to it? All the time? Just in the beginning before the engine reaches temp?

I´m guessing the ECM controls this?

[Author]

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