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I am almost certain the cause of these problems was once again the positive battery cable.
I cleaned the terminal twice and the second time was just before the first new PCV elbow failed. I think I tightened the clamp too much and the terminal was not seated down enough on the post. The terminal was tight on the post but not entirely seated on it, so there was a lip of a few mms above the post.
Loosening the clamp and re-tightening seems to have made a big difference, which is deja vu all over again.
With the HVAC blower turned off, the car idles perfectly in park and every gear. There have been no further misfires while actually moving, on hills, the highway or otherwise. However there is still some roughness at idle in park or in gear with the HVAC blower turned on. It’s not nearly as bad as before, when I thought the car would stall out for sure.
I wonder if my many manipulations have left it useable but unfixable and the remaining cause of the problem?
I am almost certain the cause of these problems was once again the positive battery cable.
I cleaned the terminal twice and the second time was just before the first new PCV elbow failed. I think I tightened the clamp too much and the terminal was not seated down enough on the post. The terminal was tight on the post but not entirely seated on it, so there was a lip of a few mms above the post.
Loosening the clamp and re-tightening seems to have made a big difference, which is deja vu all over again.
With the HVAC blower turned off, the car idles perfectly in park and every gear. There have been no further misfires while actually moving, on hills, the highway or otherwise. However there is still some roughness at idle in park or in gear with the HVAC blower turned on. It’s not nearly as bad as before, when I thought the car would stall out for sure.
I wonder if my many manipulations have left it useable but unfixable and the remaining cause of the problem?
Well my unreliable POS finally threw a pending code tonight after it misfired as I was accelerating up hill on a highway – P0302.
My trusted mechanic is taking it on Monday.
Hopefully it’s something simply related to the previously failed PCV valve.
I will update with the outcome.
Well my unreliable POS finally threw a pending code tonight after it misfired as I was accelerating up hill on a highway – P0302.
My trusted mechanic is taking it on Monday.
Hopefully it’s something simply related to the previously failed PCV valve.
I will update with the outcome.
[quote=”college man” post=110038]It sounds like the place to start is with the oil in the spark
plug wells. The O rings need replacement. The oil will cause the
secondary voltage to leak. When you drive the car is the cel or
yellow light flashing? Are any codes stored? More in this link.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues%5B/quote%5D
Are these O rings, Spark plug tube seals by another name?
I have not seen the CEL flash and there are no stored codes or pending codes. It seems that whatever is happening is not a true misfire because it does not upset the fuel trims and does not set misfire codes, even if I’m at a red light and it happens five times in a row – bam, bam, bam, bam, bam, but not very loud. I can only sort of hear it in the car, with the radio and air blower turned off.
[quote=”college man” post=110038]It sounds like the place to start is with the oil in the spark
plug wells. The O rings need replacement. The oil will cause the
secondary voltage to leak. When you drive the car is the cel or
yellow light flashing? Are any codes stored? More in this link.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues%5B/quote%5D
Are these O rings, Spark plug tube seals by another name?
I have not seen the CEL flash and there are no stored codes or pending codes. It seems that whatever is happening is not a true misfire because it does not upset the fuel trims and does not set misfire codes, even if I’m at a red light and it happens five times in a row – bam, bam, bam, bam, bam, but not very loud. I can only sort of hear it in the car, with the radio and air blower turned off.
One can’t learn how to turn a wrench while “online”, but I’m seeing that one sure can learn a lot about ODB diagnostics. Just be careful about choosing your sources.
One can’t learn how to turn a wrench while “online”, but I’m seeing that one sure can learn a lot about ODB diagnostics. Just be careful about choosing your sources.
Well I did never get around to fully testing the cables, but I also think the “slow turnover” might have been a product of my (inexperience with cars) imagination. The battery seems to be charging normally and I can’t complain about the performance at startup. Thanks for the tips, Eric.
Well I did never get around to fully testing the cables, but I also think the “slow turnover” might have been a product of my (inexperience with cars) imagination. The battery seems to be charging normally and I can’t complain about the performance at startup. Thanks for the tips, Eric.
FWIW, I had this (perhaps) exact problem with the ’01 Taurus that I recently purchased. When the blower was turned on, for either hot or cold air, while idling in gear, the RPM would fluctuate. However not 300rpm, more like 100 rpm. But the cause seems to have been the outrageously heavily corroded positive battery terminal and a weak battery. I put in a new battery, cleaned up the terminal and the problem appears to be solved.
FWIW, I had this (perhaps) exact problem with the ’01 Taurus that I recently purchased. When the blower was turned on, for either hot or cold air, while idling in gear, the RPM would fluctuate. However not 300rpm, more like 100 rpm. But the cause seems to have been the outrageously heavily corroded positive battery terminal and a weak battery. I put in a new battery, cleaned up the terminal and the problem appears to be solved.
I thought you were going to ask a different question, so I hope you don’t mind that I’m going to add it.
In some cars, probably not the newest models, if one were to leave the HVAC blower setting on anything but the “off” position, with the engine turned off and the key removed, will this cause a key-off drain of the battery?