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I’m in Iowa what it stays single digits for several months and i always deal with cold cars. I’ve always let the car warm up for 5 to ten minutes. And then driven them gently for another five.
If you have a decent oil, your engine should be just fine after a remote start.Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
The temperature warmed up about 40 degrees. Started right up. Yes, I’m dumping some heat in the gas tank.
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The battery was old so I went ahead and replaced it. I put a test light on cylinder 1 and verified spark, but still no start.
Here is the video [video]https://youtu.be/v3PXdt3qTq4[video] next stop is fuel pressure testing, but I will need to get a tester for that.
As soon as I stopped cranking, I heard this funny suction sound. Frozen fuel line?Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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Follow up to this thread. There were two things happening here. First, I didn’t seat the ground on the alternator well enough when I installed it. A quick reseating of that fixed that issue worth the crazy high (25v) voltages. Secondly, there was a Crack in the plug on the motor that was making for an iffy connection. I swapped that part out, and alakazam it started functioning properly. All hail Eric, the Lord and master of this realm.
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[quote=”ArmedsouthernEr” post=154002]Do you have a generic code reader? If so the first thing i would do is check your short and long term fuel trims when the problem occurs. Your short term will constantly adjust but shouldn’t be more than 10% positive or negative. Long term should be the same although you shouldn’t see it adjust as much. Any number in the positive would indicate a lean condition. Any number in the negative would indicate a rich running condition. Anything + or – 15% I would consider excessive. See what the fuel trim is during the misfire event.[/quote]
Thanks for the tip. Between the fuel trims and experinentation, this came down to bad coils and clogged cats. All hail Eric, the Lord and master, for his brilliant videos.Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
It is a bit chilly here (-30 windchill), so ohm readings were a bit off at temp. Pulled the cam sensor and verified both ohm out okay.
Crank sensor 453 [cold]
Cam sensor 924 [cold] 1150 and climbing indoors.
I took it inside and warmed it up /cleaned it. Also tested it against a spinning metal wheel setup. That sensor looks good. The crank sensor is a bit trickier to get to, so I’m not going to try that unless there is a good reason.I’m going to go back to basics once I get a buddy to help me start it. Test for spark, compression, fuel. The only question is if I wait for it to warm up or not. I love iowa.. really.
I just gave it another try, Still the same thing. This time I had my OBD scanner on with a phone app. No error codes stored in the ECU. What gives?
Would timing just go like that and not generate any error codes?? Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors aren’t out of the question I guiess, but I figured I would at least get a code if they went out.
I just gave it another try, Still the same thing. This time I had my OBD scanner on with a phone app. No error codes stored in the ECU. What gives?
Would timing just go like that and not generate any error codes?? Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors aren’t out of the question I guiess, but I figured I would at least get a code if they went out.
this problem still vexes me.
I swapped the plugs, coils and wires, as well as EGR. this will run great until I come to a stop and try to take off. then it nearly stalls. Runs great on the interstate for almost 30 minutes. I would of figured that a fuel issue would of showed up in that timeframe.
does this lack of power / nearly stalling point to a vacuum leak? I need to regroup and get a new plan.
1) I just recently replaced the alternator on this vehicle less than 200 miles ago. It siezed and cracked so I got a cheap one from ebay. Not a fun job, however it had this wiper issue before that. I only say that because I think I have some significant electrical issues going on here, I can’t rule out this new alternator just yet for the other stuff.
2) I agree that I’m going to knock off the easy stuff first. The #3 cylinder requires pulling the intake so it’s going to be a few days until I get to that. It’s not difficult, just time consuming. It’s going to sit until then I guess.
4.)The schematic clearly has 5 wires going to it, not. I was wrong and thanks for helping me double check my work. I’m also not sure that I didn’t have autorange happening on my meter so I jumped back out there just now with my good meter.
EngineOFF battery = 11.91
EngineON battery = 14.91
EngineON measure @ connector = 15.52All the images, along with a wire diagram is in this album.
Imgur album with all the pictures
Here is the schematic
Car will run just fine for a day or so. Come off the interstate to a stop, take off and press on the pedal and there is almost no power. Then you get about 10 seconds of that before it really starts misfire and shaking, along with a blinking engine light for a P0300. It’s obviously not burning fuel when it does this as it makes the plugs covered in soot when I pull them.
Pull over, shut it off and lift the hood. Start it up and the misfire is still happening. Pull a plug wire from the coil just for a moment while it archs, then reseat the wire. Doesn’t matter which cylinder. Misfire goes away and all is good.
This happened in my driveway as well once before. I originally found that pulling the negative battery terminal would fix it. Then i was pulling plug wires to see if I could figure which cylinder(s) wasn’t contributing. That’s when I saw that pulling a plug wire and reseating it temporarily cleared up the issue.
The car is a 2003 Mazda protege5. It has a coil over plug on cylinder 2 with a plug wire going to cylinder 3. The other coil is over plug 4 with a wire to cylinder 1. I’ve done plugs twice (copper OEM) , coils, EGR. There is also the occasional P0421 in the cat, but I’ve duped the sensor (stacked non foulers on the 2nd o2) for now so it doesn’t come up. Last guy probably drove it with the misfire and cooked the cats. I’ll deal with that later. The battery is 5 years old and tests bad as well. That will be my next purchase for this vehicle.
What happens when I pull the plug and let it arch for a second? Why does that make the misfire go away?
I had a few minutes to check that fuel pressure, and heard a vacuum leak when I played back the video. FYI there seems to be plenty of pressure on the return line
Also I pulled the relay they are talking about in the video and saw this
[url=http://imgur.com/aXqsE6v]
[/urlI’m going to fix the vacuum leak, take a look at those contacts and that relay, and I’ll post another video. I think I still hear a miss but I ran out of time to shoot a video of it.
Wife called to let me know she felt like taking the car for a spin (thought it was fixed) and the light came on. She claims she drove right back to the house as soon as she saw the blinking CEL. She popped the hood, called me up and then asked me if the catalytic converters are always supposed to glow bright red like that. She felt bad and made me a cake to apologize.
I’m guessing the cats are going to have a nice rattle to them when I get home and check them out. I’ll let you know what I find.
Funny Story. I was pulling rotors on an 07 ford F150 2WD and I pounded on the rotor for 5 minutes before I figured out that I needed to pull the 36mm retention nut out of the middle. Came off quite readily once I did that.
If I busted the rotor like that, I would hang it on the wall of my shop. You are a BAD man!