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I’m going to side with RogueTeddy and wysetech. Those Diesel filters are rediculously huge, especially when compared to the filter on something like a Nissan V6. And of course any newly built motor where you can’t prime the oil system.
I’m going to side with RogueTeddy and wysetech. Those Diesel filters are rediculously huge, especially when compared to the filter on something like a Nissan V6. And of course any newly built motor where you can’t prime the oil system.
Even if it’s at the proper mix? Because someone better let pretty much every maufacturer know if this effects performance in any way because anything with direct injection says you should add one every oilchange. Or more.
Even if it’s at the proper mix? Because someone better let pretty much every maufacturer know if this effects performance in any way because anything with direct injection says you should add one every oilchange. Or more.
yup
nope
pretty sure its doing it right now, intermittently of course.
nope
yup
not applicable
happened 2 weeks ago, took out a tire.
nope
nope
NA
no leak no problem…
nope
NA
nope
I keep a jug of 5w-30 in the trunk 🙂
Good work, very well written and organized.
What exactly is this GM piston ring cleaner you speak of? I put relatively higher miles on my car and at least trying it would be worth it, as running synthetic wouldn’t be worth it.
yup
nope
pretty sure its doing it right now, intermittently of course.
nope
yup
not applicable
happened 2 weeks ago, took out a tire.
nope
nope
NA
no leak no problem…
nope
NA
nope
I keep a jug of 5w-30 in the trunk 🙂
Good work, very well written and organized.
What exactly is this GM piston ring cleaner you speak of? I put relatively higher miles on my car and at least trying it would be worth it, as running synthetic wouldn’t be worth it.
I see what you’re getting at, but what would be the point of clipping it onto the battery cables? The idea is to save the memory when you remove the battery.
You also don’t need several amps of current. If you’re trying to run anything more than incidental lights (ie door) just hook the battery back up.
I see what you’re getting at, but what would be the point of clipping it onto the battery cables? The idea is to save the memory when you remove the battery.
You also don’t need several amps of current. If you’re trying to run anything more than incidental lights (ie door) just hook the battery back up.
I use a 1200K everyday. I love it. Once it wasn’t enough power, which resulted in me, a breaker bar and a 4 ft cheater bar.
I ordered a 1355XL from Snap-on a few weeks ago, haven’t seen it yet though. Yes they sell the 1200k and the 1355XL in their supplemental Equipment catalogue, Even though Mac rebrands them for their own purposes.
I use a 1200K everyday. I love it. Once it wasn’t enough power, which resulted in me, a breaker bar and a 4 ft cheater bar.
I ordered a 1355XL from Snap-on a few weeks ago, haven’t seen it yet though. Yes they sell the 1200k and the 1355XL in their supplemental Equipment catalogue, Even though Mac rebrands them for their own purposes.
Holy relevant Batman.
A guy at work has a Sequoia coming in in the next couple of day for one of those seals and he was telling me how long it took him to put the e-brake back together the other day.
Holy relevant Batman.
A guy at work has a Sequoia coming in in the next couple of day for one of those seals and he was telling me how long it took him to put the e-brake back together the other day.
If it’s intermittent and seemingly getting worse it could easily be the starter. You have to do a current draw test on the starter to check what kind of amperage it is drawing. Over time the space between the contacts will open up creating a spot that requires more amperage to bridge the gap. Eventually this will create a dead spot in the starter, causing your vehicle not to start.
I apologize but I seriously have no clue how to test this without professional grade equipment.
We check starter draw on every car that comes in with a cranking issue even if something like the battery is obviously toast.
If it’s intermittent and seemingly getting worse it could easily be the starter. You have to do a current draw test on the starter to check what kind of amperage it is drawing. Over time the space between the contacts will open up creating a spot that requires more amperage to bridge the gap. Eventually this will create a dead spot in the starter, causing your vehicle not to start.
I apologize but I seriously have no clue how to test this without professional grade equipment.
We check starter draw on every car that comes in with a cranking issue even if something like the battery is obviously toast.
Pull the dipstick and smell it. If it smells like gas change the oil. Alot of the flooded gas that washed down the cylinder walls ended up in the oil, making it not so completely oil anymore.
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