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You could have also used some used oil the first change and used that to flush out the coolant. Who doesn’t have a jug of used oil kicking around.
If the oil pressure sending unit only has 1 wire, it’s a switch and no matter what the oil pressure if there is any will read the same spot. Not saying this is the case, but it is a possibility. Oil pressure would be changed with the temperature.
Now to quote a tech I worked with, this is according to his GM training “Gauges are simply there for the customers amusement.”
I guess a bit of it would depend on what exactly you mean by “high”. are we talking into the red zone.
If the oil pressure sending unit only has 1 wire, it’s a switch and no matter what the oil pressure if there is any will read the same spot. Not saying this is the case, but it is a possibility. Oil pressure would be changed with the temperature.
Now to quote a tech I worked with, this is according to his GM training “Gauges are simply there for the customers amusement.”
I guess a bit of it would depend on what exactly you mean by “high”. are we talking into the red zone.
It is very likely just warped rotors. Yes I said warped, it’s the easiest way to explain it. If it was/is an abs issue it would likely only be apparent when the ABS kicks in.
This is generally caused by heat. Your friend or whomever else drives that car probably rides the pedal more than they need to leading to warped rotors. They likely could be machined but by the time you pay, and then the time to remove them etc, your just making more work. Yes it might work out cheaper but what’s your time really worth to you? And then if the can’t be machined within spec they have to be replaced anyway. It’s a very common car so quality parts should be available without breaking the bank.
I would start with the front rotors, they take a majority of the abuse and in my experience cause most pulsation issues. Make sure you get OEM or better rotors, please. Buying cheap ones will only result in having messed up rotors again.
Before you install the new rotors, clean the mounting surface of the hub to remove any rust or dirt, a wire brush should work fine. Wash the rotors with soap and water first, then brake clean. Apply a small amount of anti-seize between the rotor and the hub to save swearing next time. Score up the pads a bit to get a good mating. This is also the perfect time to clean and lubricate the everything on the caliper.
Obviously if the pads are toast replace them too.
It is very likely just warped rotors. Yes I said warped, it’s the easiest way to explain it. If it was/is an abs issue it would likely only be apparent when the ABS kicks in.
This is generally caused by heat. Your friend or whomever else drives that car probably rides the pedal more than they need to leading to warped rotors. They likely could be machined but by the time you pay, and then the time to remove them etc, your just making more work. Yes it might work out cheaper but what’s your time really worth to you? And then if the can’t be machined within spec they have to be replaced anyway. It’s a very common car so quality parts should be available without breaking the bank.
I would start with the front rotors, they take a majority of the abuse and in my experience cause most pulsation issues. Make sure you get OEM or better rotors, please. Buying cheap ones will only result in having messed up rotors again.
Before you install the new rotors, clean the mounting surface of the hub to remove any rust or dirt, a wire brush should work fine. Wash the rotors with soap and water first, then brake clean. Apply a small amount of anti-seize between the rotor and the hub to save swearing next time. Score up the pads a bit to get a good mating. This is also the perfect time to clean and lubricate the everything on the caliper.
Obviously if the pads are toast replace them too.
So does it have some sort of issue?
A tech at work just spent 3 days (not constant) trying to verify an issue with a car. Intermittent means costly to diagnose.
So does it have some sort of issue?
A tech at work just spent 3 days (not constant) trying to verify an issue with a car. Intermittent means costly to diagnose.
It is possible, assuming the compressor sits in the open of the garage, that it was burning off dirt which had accumulated on the different parts which don’t usually get that hot under your use.
That being said anything electrical that smells like burning is usually an indication of something electrical burning out.
It is possible, assuming the compressor sits in the open of the garage, that it was burning off dirt which had accumulated on the different parts which don’t usually get that hot under your use.
That being said anything electrical that smells like burning is usually an indication of something electrical burning out.
“Foamy” or aerated power steering fluid is a sign that something has a leak, but instead of letting fluid out air is actually getting in. This generally indicates a pump issue but the hoses and rack have to be ruled out.
“Foamy” or aerated power steering fluid is a sign that something has a leak, but instead of letting fluid out air is actually getting in. This generally indicates a pump issue but the hoses and rack have to be ruled out.
Always use what the manufacturer recommends.
That being said most GM cars that spec 5w-30 or 10w30 usually state something to the effect of: Below 0c (freezing) use 5w-30 above 0c you can use 10w30.
Basically the 2 are interchangeable until you get into variable valve timing and whatnot.
Always use what the manufacturer recommends.
That being said most GM cars that spec 5w-30 or 10w30 usually state something to the effect of: Below 0c (freezing) use 5w-30 above 0c you can use 10w30.
Basically the 2 are interchangeable until you get into variable valve timing and whatnot.
I used a similar “de-carbon” foam from wynns at work and it made a difference. I definitely idled alot smoother. For the last few months we’ve been doing it on cars that need it, and it does work. There’s been a couple of cars even a newer truck (long story) that ran better than ever before.
Yes do use any product for your car per the manufacturers instructions, being aware of any warnings.
The most important things are to make sure the engine is at operating temperature when you start. Let is soak in, it should sit for a few minutes (5) between applications, afterwards take the vehicle out for a good boot to blow all the crap out. Both to literally blow crap out and 2 because it stinks. Most importantly, if you can avoid it don’t do it inside.
If you’re blowing out enough crap to bugger something up, you should have starting worrying about maintenance many miles ago.
I used a similar “de-carbon” foam from wynns at work and it made a difference. I definitely idled alot smoother. For the last few months we’ve been doing it on cars that need it, and it does work. There’s been a couple of cars even a newer truck (long story) that ran better than ever before.
Yes do use any product for your car per the manufacturers instructions, being aware of any warnings.
The most important things are to make sure the engine is at operating temperature when you start. Let is soak in, it should sit for a few minutes (5) between applications, afterwards take the vehicle out for a good boot to blow all the crap out. Both to literally blow crap out and 2 because it stinks. Most importantly, if you can avoid it don’t do it inside.
If you’re blowing out enough crap to bugger something up, you should have starting worrying about maintenance many miles ago.