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It’s probably the seat belt pre-tensioner like every other Honda of that vintage. Get the code, do any necessary diagnosis and replace the parts causing the code. If you have to go in for a Takata recall, they might even pull the code for free.
Modern vehicles, it’s all about the tuning. You can bolt on all the parts you can throw at it, but until you get a different fuel map in the ECU/PCM/whatever nothing’s going to really change.
For modern trucks, there’s all sorts of plug and play tuners available with preloaded tunes in them. Summit has 19 listings for ‘power programmers’ for your truck. From there, you could either just load one of the precreated tunes, or pay extra to have it dynotuned by an expert. I think most will support custom mapping, obviously don’t take my word for much. Different models offer different features, so you really have to do some research and find the one that fits your needs. If you go the custom tune route, anything like exhaust or a CAI modifications should be done first. But anyone doing tuning should probably tell you that anyway.
One of the real cool features about them, is they usually allow for more than 1 tune, so you could have your towing tune then your putting around town tune. And various shades of grey.
Just spend some time kicking around the internet reading information really. That’s the best way to learn about different products.
The in-channel type modifies the air seal the window makes. If you’re sensitive to wind noise, they aren’t the greatest idea.
The ones that stick on the outside, if they’re any good, would be pretty difficult to remove after a time. The in-channel ones come right out, kinda.
Beyond that, buy whatever you would prefer to see on your truck every day.
Nobody fixes radiators anymore. they replace them.
It’s probably worth doing some testing to make sure the engine isn’t cooked before too much time or money is spent on this endeavor.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
Alberta? Pffft. Roll coal to your hearts delight.*
As far as I’ve ever heard, no state will force their inspection standards upon visitors cars. The legal nightmare wouldn’t be worth the possible revenue.
*I understand that roll coal refers to diesels, but c’mon. Alberta.
21, 24 and to a lesser extent 27 are used here and there on suspension systems. Japanese lugnuts are 21 and many 3/4 ton trucks are 24.
I would suspect the alternator rectifier diodes if it increases with rpm. The only way to check it would be to pull the accessory belt off and start the engine, see if it’s there. To solve it, you could either disconnect the rear speakers, or replace the alternator which is probably starting to die anyway. If that’s what the issue is.
Instructions often lack key information. You either aren’t pulling hard enough on the carpet, or you have to loosen or remove the console.
Sometimes, you just have to keep removing parts until you can remove the one you need to. Or you can just cut stuff. Please don’t just cut stuff.
Warm it up with the hood open and see if the issue shows up to the same extent.
Then shut the hood and see if the symptoms change.
I’m thinking the pump may not be outputting enough to avoid fuel in the rail vaporizing and resisting flow. I’ve seen it a couple of times, it’s difficult to diagnose because you have to have the hood basically shut to properly diagnose.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues/fuel-delivery-problems
The measurable differences from a cold air intake are negligible. The thing you’ll really notice is more noise from the intake.
The best place to find out about local regulations is your local authorities. Aftermarket “50 state” exhaust systems might give you an indication if the have the resonator or not.
Ya, that show’s done.
It’s worth noting that the production company (velocity) cited that the technical segments were too difficult to produce cost effectively.
The good news is, that looks like it`s the one buried up above the drivers feet. Believe it or not, that’s the “easy” one on most vehicles.
http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/ac29/Skirmich/ACModeMotor2.jpg
The other 2 should be located behind the glovebox or somewhere there about. The basic layout is pretty standard across most makes.
The good news is, a misfire is usually pretty easy to track down. The bad news is the red glow is probably going to cost you.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/p0300-p0399#P0300
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues/performance-issues
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues/catalytic-converter-problems
[quote=”relative4″ post=185485]I apologize for being a pessimist, but stories that start with “I bought a Cardone reman PS pump from AutoZone” tend to end with “after 3 of those pieces of crap, I finally gave up and bought a new one.” Been there myself once, never again.[/quote]
I’ve installed Cardone professionally and don’t wish that garbage on anyone.
I understand that due to the nature of what they are, parts are going to fail. With Cardone, you wonder when a part is going to work. around 50% of racks failed within 6 months. And not just, oh, it’s leaking a bit. Nope, they would lose all the fluid.
If it’s the blower there are 2 separate common points of failure to look at, the blower motor and the resistor. Basically, you need a multi meter so you can confirm the motor is seeing power, if not is the resistor seeing power. You will probably need a wiring diagram.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems/electrical-issues
