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It will only go one way. There’s usually a mechanical lever of some sort that controls the actuation. Trying to move it with a screwdriver will only allow it to turn one way without considerable effort.
http://www.boyandjeep.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/d60-drums-29.jpg
Like the above statement, they all look different but are mechanically the same concept.
Clean, lubricate and adjust.
If they’re out of adjustment far enough they won’t be effectively applying braking pressure, causing it to feel as if the pedal has to travel further to get braking force. A simple way to check is to apply the emergency or parking brake. If should actuate in the first quarter of the handle or pedals range.
Although I would warn against it if it’s also been years since it was last engaged, if you apply it and one of the cables seizes in the applied position, you have another more pressing issue to deal with and now you can’t drive your car.
It sounds like you need a proper extractor (set). Like this one:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hanson-Hanson-25Pc-Set-Spline-E-1-8Thru7-8/19259916
If you do go that route, you will also need a new plug. Use an impact driver or some other ‘impact’ device if you have one.
Or you could head to your local wrecker and get the whole thermostat housing.
BBB industries
http://www.bbbind.com/Autozone (although I find it a mess)
http://www.autozone.com/A 2001 Durango DLC pinout
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ivestoy2/2011-07-03_221916_1.gifI think he likely was referring to cutting power to the fuel pump.
That would be a bit more difficult to pull off on a diesel, especially if it’s older.
Any reputable automotive “recycler” should warranty their used parts. at least they will in North America.
Ask around and get a quote for the rebuild with the transmission out of the car. If it’s a common transmission, the parts should be plentiful and maybe even cheap.
You could also search around to see if anyone offers rebuilt, or ‘re-certified’ units.
Anyway, ya. It’s a total crapshoot buying a used mechanical part that can’t be tested first.
The answer is both yes and no. The only failed lines I’ve seen are either collapsed or blown out. When they collapse, they just put through very little or no fluid. Pumping and opening the bleeder with someone inside paying attention will allow you to differentiate between the 2 sides to gauge any difference in the way the pedal travels down once the bleeder is opened. You can also just watch how the fluid leaves the bleeder itself.
If the pedal is spongy, your best bet is to target that first and go form there. It’s the easiest problem to attempt to solve first and what you find can point you in the right direction diagnostically.
I’m going to guess your car has rear drum brakes. Have you serviced and adjusted them lately, like in the last year? When they go out it can completely change how the pedal feels.
That sounds like it would be the correct bolt, I can tell you form personal experience that the threads on those are 12×1.75 and the length sounds right.
Good work detective.
I would personally just order 2 and replace both sides.
Cool, just making sure you make the best decision for you. Considering the issues with cam journals those engines have it isn’t worth chancing it with a used engine. I was working in a shop and we bought an F150 with the phaser knock and by the time we priced out getting the heads redone, etc, etc, it was almost the same as a rebuilt engine in our market.
Do some research on the timing chain, I’ve never handled one myself but I took a training course based on that engine and the instructor was talking about needing at least 1 special tool to block the chain where it passes through the head, but you can make your own with a piece of wood, or something to that effect. Just something to look into before you start ripping into things.
Afterwards, do yourself a favour and run only synthetic oil. The cam journals wear out and oblong leading to fluctuating oil pressure which usually leads to phaser knock, but has apparently gotten past that in your case and actual mechanical damage is occurring. If the heads are being rebuilt, set aside some money in case you need to replace a cam or other part. If you’re buying them already remanned, that isn’t an issue.
Those timing chains aren’t all that simple to replace and those heads are near impossible to remove with the engine installed and the cab attached.
If you’re going to be spending that much time and money on it, you should really think about just getting a rebuilt engine. By the time you do the heads and put everything back together you might be at that price already. I really think you should sit down and crunch some numbers on it.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
This could be any number of problems. If the rotors weren’t machined or replaced, there could be imperfections in the surface, ridges or rust build up, that stay in contact with the friction material. The caliper may not have been adequately cleaned when the new pads were installed so the pads are sticking in their sliders not pulling off the rotor the small amount they need to. The caliper slides might not have been properly serviced causing the same issue. All the diagnosis information you should need is available in the link provided.
Their opinion probably has more to do with it not being forced induction than a gas engine. With a turbo you can just crank up boost to get more power. That’s also why I suggested doing any upgrades first and getting a custom tune.
You could also look at upgrading your brake’s friction material and adding some sort of overload springs or airbags. Although with your truck being a 2500 I’m not too sure what kind of towing it’s set up for from the factory.
One cable controls left to right and another controls up and down, so if it’s a 6 speed manual it makes sense that a cable could either be broken, loose or otherwise not functioning properly.
