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If the threaded are isn’t completely wrecked, you can probably run the appropriate tap through preferably from the side that still has threads and “save” it. I wouldn’t count on being able to put a whole lotta torque on it if the bolts don’t pass all the way through. Even then you’re dancing with the devil a bit. And make sure the bolt threads are in good shape as well.
Worst case scenario, you’re in the same place you are now.
With specialty aftermarket parts, being “direct fit” only means that it’s supposed to fit.
If it’s a choppy kind of feeling, you should be looking at the upper strut mounts or bearings as it may be. It is possible they are binding a bit when they are on center and have trouble coming off, but once they move past that point they’re OK. Although it’s usually more of a creaky effect.
With someone inside turning the wheel, placing a couple of fingers on the top of the strut, if it’s the mount you’ll feel it right there as it happens.
You could also try isolating a couple of different things out of the equation, because as you described it it’s a bit odd to me. You could (properly with jack stands) jack up the car so the front wheels are off the ground and see if anything changes when steering is applied. Ruling out the hydraulic portion as there would be very little load on it. You could also try, even at the same time, to remove the belt and completely remove the hydraulic assist. You could test drive for a short time, like around the block. Assume you’ll probably get a CEL and have to charge the battery afterwards as alternators are NOT designed to charge the battery, only maintain said charge.
You kind of want to approach it by removing the effect a component could have and testing if the vibration is still there.
You should be able to find it anywhere auto parts are sold.
If you have to go buy it, go for the spray and make sure it’s silicone.
Put the window all the way down and apply either silicon lubricant spray or paste into the tracks. It looks like it may be binding on the front track.
A relearn may be required.
I would check the fluid level. At operating temperature with the vehicle in park the fluid level should be in the hashing on the dipstick.
It could also be just a trait of the transmission that the 1-2 shift is a certain way.
Your QX4 is also known as a Nissan Pathfinder, there may be more information on that model and it’s issues available online.
Probably 7-8 depending on reasons.
If you drive anything other than a Honda or GM you can use any left over to do a power steering fluid change. Even Gms you can throw it in the power steering if you need to.
It usually isn’t necessary. There’s usually a handful of bolts that go up through the oil pan into the timing cover on cars where the timing cover meets the oil pan. They usually aren’t the easiest to get to, but removing the pan probably isn’t necessary. You might save some effort for yourself by jacking the engine up to remove said fasteners.
A steering wheels tendency to return to straight is a byproduct of the caster in its alignment. Generally the caster is either not adjustable or only adjustable by a small amount. Usually the only thing that will really throw it out is physical damage to the car.
You’re probably driving it a bit differently or paying extra close attention since the repair, it’s probably functioning the same it was before.
When it’s bad enough to damage something like the head gasket, the problem is most definitely between the seat and steering wheel.
That car should have a dual mass flywheel, if whatever mechanism that keeps it from rattling has failed, it is completely possible that it is causing your noise. If it’s the source of your issue, the flywheel needs to be replaced as dual mass flywheels can not be machined as far as I know.
My car has a dual mass flywheel and is at the point where I have to think about replacing the clutch. I’m heavily considering going with an aftermarket ‘performance’ single mass unit.
Another easy thing to check that can cause rattling at idle is the alternator overrun clutch. With the car at idle just look to see if the belt is running smooth or twitching like it’s having a seizure. If it’s twitching around the overrun clutch has failed and the rattle can permeate all through the drive train. I almost misdiagnosed a flywheel once when it was the overrun clutch on a Jetta of roughly the same vintage. Once it came off idle the noise just disappeared, clutch in did the same thing.
Very few headgaskets on modern cars randomly fail and over a decent sized sample you’ll usually see the pattern to any straight failure. So a particular engine from a particular manufacturer will have issues while other’s won’t.
Outside of the few cars where it is a common issue, it’s almost always a result of overheating. Since some time in the mid-late 90s manufacturers have all been using multi-layer metal head gaskets that aren’t as prone to failure as the older style composite, I think they were graphite based, designs were.
For sure the occurrence of warping due to overheating is in correlation with the materials being used. Aluminium is soft and simply won’t handle extreme temperatures.
You are going righty tighty, lefty loosey right? Just checking.
Head bolts are usually really, really tight since they are torque to yield on modern cars.
Like the torquing procedure, they should be loosened evenly (or close to) and in steps to avoid warping the head. Just give it what you can and brace yourself so you don’t get hurt if something fails really. If you can get your hands on a 3/4 bar and socket or adapter, then by all means feel free to do so. Personally I’ve always just used my chinesium 1/2 breaker bar without a problem. I would avoid using any sort of power tool for the initial loosening, once there’s no tension on them it doesn’t matter.