Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I’m Canadian, I have used RockAuto several times and will continue to.
They include customs and duties in the shipping prices and it’s in Canadian dollars.
I believe most larger places will include the customs fees int heir shipping, but the pricing is usually in USD. The few specialty Items I’ve priced out I just purchased locally for a small amount of money more and far less hassle.
Even with RockAuto’s low prices you have to apply some common sense and due diligence. Heavier, bulkier items cost exponentially more to ship than small items. You should also search out at least 1 quote from a local supplier and check for possible sales to figure if the extended time frame is worth the savings. The basic shipping is 5-8 business days and the faster shipping gets really expensive really fast. I upgraded my last order from 5-8 to 3-5 days and the shipping cost almost doubled. Likewise shipping 1 $10 cabin filter costs about $10.
In general though, even after shipping, the total including parts and shipping is around what most shops pay wholesale as far as I’ve witnessed.
Before you go ripping it apart, you would have to know what specifically failed in order to successfully repair it.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems/electrical-issues
Take a look at the wiring in the trunk and see if it’s rubbed through anywhere. Most wiring failures are at points of movement and most circuits are switched on the ground side. So if you have a broken ground wire, the light would still be seeing power at all times and getting a ground from the break.
Other than visual inspection, you’ll have to check out BBB Industries or Autozone also has wiring diagrams online and start going through it.
The p0420 is definitely a likely candidate for why you’re experiencing a loss of power.
As for the noise, I have no idea. Start by thinking about what changes when the clutch pedal is depressed and the clutch is disengaged. Maybe you have a squeaky mount somewhere, or a piece of the interior is coming loose and squeaking?
The joke in Canada at least is that you don’t buy a German car, you lease it. The only Euro brands we see are German aside from Fiat and they only sell one model.
Modern cars require a specialized skill set and access to the proper information to do anything beyond basic diagnosis on most of the time. Anyone worth their weight can easily go wherever they want and probably have. Leaving behind a bunch of unskilled yahoos. A shop has to be dedicated to ongoing education of their techs and those techs have to be dedicated to always learning as well. Ongoing training and the proper equipment are expensive and attitudes in general towards cars have changed in the last 30 years. People now think of them as disposable appliances and treat them as such.
I’m going to go one step further and say the whole culture of dealerships and auto service in general is fucking broken. It’s honestly worse than a joke, I’m not even sure what to say it is. I’ve worked for some real assholes, but nothing as vile as in the auto service industry. My superiors have felt the need to threaten me with physical violence, theft of property, willfully not submitting apprenticeship papers and one guy even suggested I get a gun and kill myself. Oh ya, did I mention I was in the middle of a small breakdown at the time? Needless to say, nobody will ever be able to pay me enough money to work at another shop.
I have a menial job in a steel shop and I’m making more money, more consistently than I did working flat rate for almost 3 years.
There isn’t a huge difference in rotors. Usually as long as you go to a mid-grade line you’re getting ones made to manufacturers spec. The cheap ones are usually made like crap with uneven material thickness etc.
Pads are the best way to improve your braking performance. I would suggest doing a bit of research and getting the best ones to suit your needs you can afford. I would steer clear of the high performance ones, you’ll usually get a fair amount of brake dust and noise from the friction materials as a result of their intended application.
Personally I run Raybestos Pro Grade rotors and their EHT (Enhanced Hybrid Technology) pads.
I would say most of that noise is valve train related. Most of what I found seems to indicate that it has valve lash adjusters, like a Honda. I personally couldn’t easily identify a repair procedure online.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks/engine-oil
The first leak appears to be the timing belt tensioner. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1307039&cc=1375297&jsn=422
Simply replace it next time you replace your timing belt.The main culprit that goes away when it warms up that comes to my mind is power steering fluid when it’s either a bit low or so dirty it has viscosity issues below freezing.
I would try disconnecting the battery, cycling the key on to drain any capacitors and letting it sit for a couple of minutes. Reconnect the battery and see what happens.
What method are you using to relearn the idle? Do you have an appropriate scan tool or are you using a manual method? Part of any relearn is the motor, or actuator, has to move along it’s path from start to finish. The clicking could easily be the throttle plate closing after it’s done it’s pass.
Simple solution, don’t go back to that shop unless you are required to. If that means paying for another inspection, so be it. Take your money elsewhere.
Maybe this will help:
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0405
The first thing I would do personally though is pull the EGR off and make sure the pintle is clean and clear. Reinstall, clear the code and retest.