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Well, one code is generic, P0700, so ignore that one. Then you have 2 codes that reference the temperature sensor and a fourth code that is either referencing voltage supply to the control unit or a sensor that isn’t reading within parameters.
Easiest thing to do would be to check and make sure you have more than 9 volts to the control module at all times. If you have a suspect battery, it could be dropping during cranking and throwing the whole system off.
Next I would look at the temperature sensor and it’s operation. It is perfectly reasonable to believe that a failed (as far as codes outputted) temperature sensor would result in the control module putting the transmission into a limp mode.
Don’t forget basics like checking the fluid level and condition before you fire the parts cannon at it.
If you’re doing tires all day, I would go for something with less weight than a big old (design wise) Ingersoll. I have both an Aircat (nitrocat) 1200K and 1355XL. Once I got the small one, I only used the big one when I absolutely had to, which was very rare. They make the 1375XL, which is the same body as the 1355XL, only it has a 1/2 drive as opposed to a 3/8 drive.
The 1375XL is 2.75 pounds, the earthquake composite is 4.4 and the IR 236 is 5.3. I can almost guarantee the Aircat is also far, more quiet than the others. Even though you’re young, start thinking about protecting your body a bit.
It appears as if you’re in the 204 area code, so am I.
Feel free to shoot me a PM, on the profile page, if you’re in the peg I still have access to a previous employers indentifix account if you want to come by and give it a go.
The world we live in when you have to say that a built engine “only” has 575 horsepower. I still remember when the Viper came out and everyone was amazed by the seemingly gargantuan 400 horsepower.
Now my 2008 SRT4, with just under 300 at the crank isn’t even relevant. It’s a mad, mad world.
[quote=”relative4″ post=187689]Since it’s normally aspirated, you’ll PROBABLY be fine. But don’t pump and pray – test it. Log some hard pulls, look for knock and watch for the ECU pulling timing, especially at high revs.
If you don’t have OBD logging yet, the OBDLink MX and the TorquePro app are a powerful and affordable combination.[/quote]A modern NA engine will just adjust timing so the engine can operate safely. The same thing that happens if you put premium in a car that only requires regular. The computer just adjusts a few things and carries on.
Some cars will plain start to run like shit on lower octane fuel. Maybe not to the point of actually causing issues, but it can be noticeable.
Personally I drive a factory high output turbo engine. Even running lesser quality premium fuels will make it run like shit.
Honestly, for the few dollars difference a tank, there’s no reason not to run premium if your car requires it.
On some models you can just replace the motor, however I checked on Rockauto and it only lists the assemblies. I would wager if they don’t have a listing for just the motor, the option doesn’t exist.
Unless money is super tight, the cost benefit of pulling the whole assembly out to replace one motor is pretty low when the other one is potentially also on it’s last legs. In which case you could always try to source a used unit.
The AC isn’t working because the vehicle is overheating and it’s cutting off the AC to save itself.
Pull back the protective cover on the wires inside the door jamb on the driver’s door and perform a visual inspection. 9/10, especially on an older vehicle, an intermittent door related electrical issue is usually cracked wire insulation where the door opens.
Ya, I would fork out the few bucks to buy a kit and do it again. And you are right about the pressure needing somewhere to go. Especially if the engine was at temperature. If it was cold, it shouldn’t have built pressure/temperature that fast.
You don’t replace the head gasket on something a common and normal as a base Caliber. You put in a used motor. Less labour and used engines are everywhere for them. Even if you don’t do it yourself, you’re looking at maybe 6 hours for the R&R plus the engine. car-part.com is your friend.
The good news is, it looks like rear disc brakes were an option. That means you might be able to find some used parts, or parts that directly fit.
The bad news is, a quick googling didn’t return a quick ‘how-to’ result. What you’re going to need to do is track down diagrams and parts lists for each assembly and figure out what parts are different and what you will physically need to complete the job. Or simply head to the nearest junkyards and start looking for a PT with rear discs and simply take all those parts.
A lot of the difficulty level will depend on how crusty the rear suspension and associated bolts are from 14 years of driving. Bolts that pass through bushings don’t like to come apart without a fight, so you would definitely have to plan and budget to replace other parts.
I would look into the possibility of your Cherokee having either different sized rear drums, or one or more of the parts being incorrect. A quick look and it appears that there might be no less than 4 options for rear drum sizing.
If you’re stuck you might need to go to the dealer directly so they can use your VIN to properly identify the required size.
If the picture OP posted was actually of his truck, it doesn’t look like he has a cabin air filter. Where it would be is clearly factory sealed.
I’m also pretty sure the item marked actuator is actually the resistor for the blower motor.
The operation is exactly the same. The second hose is pretty much specific to that vehicle and bleeding, yes even on a system with only one hose going to the pressurized expansion tank, is completed the same way.
Larger engines are actually easier to bleed in my experience.