[Sean]

[quote=”nightflyr” post=202086]I would suggest repairing all your known faulty conditions before attempting to pinpoint the cause.[/quote]

Well, looks like i found the issue for sure now. But i sure ended up paying for it.

Lower right ball joint, ripped boot and got rusty. The whole ball popped out while driving 40 mph.
Machined a groove into the alloy (where the nut hit it).

Tow: $115
Replace both ball joints: $527

Steering is now back to normal, for a worn steering rack.

[Sean]

Ok new control arms are on.
Went out for a test drive, and the problem is pretty much gone now!

Curiously, now there is a creaking / clunk at the front when decelerating while turning right. Does not happen when braking. Assuming it is an axle. Could be the less flex (due to new bushings) is causing that to appear.
It is exactly the same location / sound that i get when reversing uphill. That noise started about a week ago.

Also, there is a clunking when going over bumps on the right side, but that could be from me forgetting to torque something.

This would be my THIRD axle from AutoZone/Advanced Auto that was supposedly “new”. Each had different problems.
At this point, i am feeling pretty beat up. I might just take it to a shop for a professional opinion.

[Sean]

[quote=”nightflyr” post=202086]I would suggest repairing all your known faulty conditions before attempting to pinpoint the cause.[/quote]

Gotcha, new lower controls arms for the front arrive on Wednesday. Luckily since i’m in Texas i don’t have any rust to deal with, so should be a simple job…
Power steering rack is a bit out of my budget right now, i’ll buy one next pay check later this month.

[Sean]

Could be an ignition switch?

If you jiggle the key around when it has no power, does it ever return?

[Sean]

Hey, just wanted to update anyone who finds this with the solution: it was air in the cooling system!

[Sean]

Thanks for the reply,

Unfortunately the car was in an accident since you replied, and it has not shown any symptoms of this after this accident. When/if it does come up i will check ignition like you suggested.

[Sean]

I thought this as well, but I checked around for vacuum leaks when the engine was hot, couldn’t find any.

The wires are fairly new, under 10k miles.

Could the wires effect idle speeds in this manner?

[Sean]

Upload to YouTube and link it here, the noise could help us diagnose it.

[Sean]

[quote=”relative4″ post=193171]To see if it’s fuel related, when having the trouble:
1. Test fuel pressure
2. Test injector signal with noid lights

To see if it’s spark related, use an inline spark tester when having the trouble.[/quote]

I already did the inline spark test, it showed no signs of issue.

I bought a fuel pressure gauge today and tested the car. It was holding a steady 48psi (spec is 49 psi). I couldn’t get it to reproduce the issue but I did notice there is a lot of air in the fuel line. This is a returnless system with the fuel pressure regulator attached to the fuel pump / fuel filter on the side of the tank.

This afternoon i will be driving the car to replicate the idle issue and then testing the pressure.

[Sean]

[quote=”relative4″ post=193151]Which cylinder(s) is/are misfiring? Have you tested fuel pressure?[/quote]

Only 1, 3, and 4 are showing in the OBD codes, however I have reason to believe it’s just a random misfire on all the cylinders.

I have yet to do a fuel pressure check (as my fuel pressure gauge is MIA) or a compression check.

Do you think it could be fuel related?

[Sean]

Problem i think is solved. Removing the thermostat caused the car to run just fine at the same temps. Had no pulsing in the upper rad hose.

I think the thermostat wasn’t opening, and as a result causing the inter-block coolant to turn to steam. That steam then escaped out of the bleeding valve on the thermostat, and is what i felt in the upper rad hose.

Will road test to make sure.

EDIT: Road test was successful.

[Sean]

UPDATE #2: The coolant filled up all the way to the coolant temp sensor hole, I then reinstalled it. The car did the exact same thing. Filled with coolant, got to quarter temp, fans kicked on then off after a few seconds, car then got to halfway, spill free funnel overflowed. Upper rad hose pulsing every half second or so.

🙁

[Sean]

UPDATE: There is indeed a coolant temp sensor right on the thermostat housing. Will remove, clean, fill, reinstall, etc. And then i will get back to you guys.

[Sean]

[quote=”Bonnieman” post=192282]Hopefully, they didn’t blow the head gasket or ruin the head.
Here’s how to check:
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysler/2.0L-2.4L/how-to-test-for-a-blown-head-gasket-1

On difficult to bleed cooling systems , it helps to drill a small hole in the thermostat.
On thermostats with a little brass piece dangling, you can just snip that off and it will serve the same purpose as the hole.
One very important part of the process is that the heater should be on max while bleeding.
If you have ramps, they may elevate the front enough to help move the air out.
A very nifty bleeder adapter is this, which has been recommended by nightflyr in another thread

Coolant Sight Glass

This site also has some ideas for bleeding the cooling system of “2.0,2.5 and similar” Chrysler engines.
https://www.allpar.com/fix/radiator-purge.html
This is a detailed write-up on the spill proof funnel method
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/%5B/quote%5D

Thank you very much for the quick reply. I have already checked for signs of head gasket failure, no coolant in oil, exhaust, and no “boiling” coolant even when the fans kick on.

I had already seen the 2.0, 2.5 and similar link, the 2.4l is a different style of engine than those. The rad cap is the highest point in the system. Also there is no bleeding screw near the thermostat.

The heater was on, blower motor set to off. During one of the bleeding attempts it blew very warm, which is promising. I am now thinking the thermostat brass bleeding valve is wedged in place and cannot open. So I will attempt to remove it, thanks for that advice. Should i try bleeding the system with no thermostat and reinstalling that (since most of the coolant is lower than that point, it wouldn’t be a huge change) after i verify no head gasket issues?

[Sean]

[quote=”college man” post=182694]see if this helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy5p-cUge5s%5B/quote%5D

Thanks! BTW I was able to pinpoint my rattle to a tee, the gasket that went from the cat to the mid-pipe (small one) had disintegrated, and every time the pipe flexed, the metal portion of the pipe would hit the cat flange, and rattle like crazy. Probably why the service bulletin Honda put out was to replace those gaskets / spring bolts.

Link to the TSB in question

[Author]

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