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Success! After removing the harmonic balancer and cover I found 2 teeth broken off the reluctor ring that the Crank sensor senses. I’m really surprised it ran as well as it did. Had an old one in my scrap pile from an engine swap. Runs like a champ now. Now the hard part. I can’t possibly charge this guy all the time I have in it. The gorilla who changed the T-Belt should pay the bill.
Thanks to all who responded.
Its a common problem on that model for the 4wd vacuum switch on the transfer case to stick. you can see it on top of the transfer case just above the drive shaft it has 3 vacuum hoses attached. you will need a 7/8 or 22mm wrench to remove it. also you should check the condition of the vacuum hoses. 1 hose goes to a vacuum source 1 to the vacuum actuator you just replaced and 1 is a vent to release the vacuum when shifted back to 2wd
Its a common problem on that model for the 4wd vacuum switch on the transfer case to stick. you can see it on top of the transfer case just above the drive shaft it has 3 vacuum hoses attached. you will need a 7/8 or 22mm wrench to remove it. also you should check the condition of the vacuum hoses. 1 hose goes to a vacuum source 1 to the vacuum actuator you just replaced and 1 is a vent to release the vacuum when shifted back to 2wd
Did the cylinder balance test and found all cylinders are contributing the same. Still convinced its something due to the t belt replacement. i think im gonna pull the harmmie and the cover to look in there.
Did the cylinder balance test and found all cylinders are contributing the same. Still convinced its something due to the t belt replacement. i think im gonna pull the harmmie and the cover to look in there.
Yes it is on TDC although i have not removed the timing cover i used the marks on the harmie and used the sight plugs in the cover to see the marks.
Yes it is on TDC although i have not removed the timing cover i used the marks on the harmie and used the sight plugs in the cover to see the marks.
If your car is not reaching full operating temp then the car is probably never achieving closed loop operation. The vehicle will not be able to do its system tests unless it can achieve closed loop.You should replace the t-stat then try again.
If your car is not reaching full operating temp then the car is probably never achieving closed loop operation. The vehicle will not be able to do its system tests unless it can achieve closed loop.You should replace the t-stat then try again.
Its not so much the miles that you drive but more the number of “drive cycles” you have driven. A drive cycle varies from car to car but it usually begins when you start the car drive a certain amount of miles, reach a specific speed. and a specific operating temp. then key off the vehicle. the amount of miles you must drive and the speed you must achieve varies from car to car but i can usually get a car to complete its tests by making 3 drive cycles of 5 miles and maintaining 55 mph for at least 1 mile during each cycle. Hope this helps
Its not so much the miles that you drive but more the number of “drive cycles” you have driven. A drive cycle varies from car to car but it usually begins when you start the car drive a certain amount of miles, reach a specific speed. and a specific operating temp. then key off the vehicle. the amount of miles you must drive and the speed you must achieve varies from car to car but i can usually get a car to complete its tests by making 3 drive cycles of 5 miles and maintaining 55 mph for at least 1 mile during each cycle. Hope this helps
The block plugs are located in the middle of the block just under the exaust manifolds. they are hex head 15mm plug
The block plugs are located in the middle of the block just under the exaust manifolds. they are hex head 15mm plug
I have found Although voltage/load testing a charging system is usually enough to make an accurate diagnosis. Occasionally I also have to use an inductive amp meter to see if the alt is capable of producing enough amps even though voltages remain in the good range. the amp ratting is usually stamped on the housing of the alt. Sometimes I find the cable coming from the alt isn’t capable of carrying the full load.
I have found Although voltage/load testing a charging system is usually enough to make an accurate diagnosis. Occasionally I also have to use an inductive amp meter to see if the alt is capable of producing enough amps even though voltages remain in the good range. the amp ratting is usually stamped on the housing of the alt. Sometimes I find the cable coming from the alt isn’t capable of carrying the full load.