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Totally agree with Eric. Focus your attention on your spark. This model uses an asd (auto shut down)relay that makes diagnostics a little tricky. With a 12v test light connected to grd. With the coil plugged in check for 12v at the coil on the green wire when the key is first turned on. You will only see this for a moment when key is first turned to the run position, so it helps to have someone turn your key while you check. If 12v is present on the green wire move your light to one of the other wires and have someone crank the engine and you should see the light flicker. Then do the same with the remaining wire.
If the 12v is missing on the green wire i would suspect the asd relay. If the flickering light is not happening then your problem is probably your crank sensor or less likely the pcm.
Totally agree with Eric. Focus your attention on your spark. This model uses an asd (auto shut down)relay that makes diagnostics a little tricky. With a 12v test light connected to grd. With the coil plugged in check for 12v at the coil on the green wire when the key is first turned on. You will only see this for a moment when key is first turned to the run position, so it helps to have someone turn your key while you check. If 12v is present on the green wire move your light to one of the other wires and have someone crank the engine and you should see the light flicker. Then do the same with the remaining wire.
If the 12v is missing on the green wire i would suspect the asd relay. If the flickering light is not happening then your problem is probably your crank sensor or less likely the pcm.
That model doesn’t have hubs that lock and unlock. Rather there is a coupler that locks the axles to the carrier inside the diff assm.
First verify that it is trans fluid in your lines. If so i would still suspect the switch. The fluid in your transfer case is ATF(trans fluid)and could only enter the lines through the Vac switch.
Another test you can do is to try to manually engage the diff by moving the diaphragm on the actuator you replaced. Squeeze it the direction that pulls the cable and the diff should engage. If it does then you have eliminated the diff as a possible problem. You have also eliminated the cable between the actuator and the diff.
That model doesn’t have hubs that lock and unlock. Rather there is a coupler that locks the axles to the carrier inside the diff assm.
First verify that it is trans fluid in your lines. If so i would still suspect the switch. The fluid in your transfer case is ATF(trans fluid)and could only enter the lines through the Vac switch.
Another test you can do is to try to manually engage the diff by moving the diaphragm on the actuator you replaced. Squeeze it the direction that pulls the cable and the diff should engage. If it does then you have eliminated the diff as a possible problem. You have also eliminated the cable between the actuator and the diff.
I would start at the connector under the seat. Unplug it and on the vehicle side of the harness put your volt meter across the 2 pis. With the switch on you should read Battery voltage. if you do then the problem is in the seat. If you don’t then you are missing either power or ground to the seat.
If you are missing either power or ground. First connect your volt meter to a good ground and test the vehicle harness for power on both pins (still unplugged) if you dont find batt.voltage on either pin iI would suspect a broken connection between the seat and switch or bad switch.
If you have batt voltage at the seat connector connect 1 lead to batt positive and probe the vehicle harness for ground (It would appear as batt voltage on your meter). If this is missing then track the bad ground wire or tap a new ground into the harness
I would start at the connector under the seat. Unplug it and on the vehicle side of the harness put your volt meter across the 2 pis. With the switch on you should read Battery voltage. if you do then the problem is in the seat. If you don’t then you are missing either power or ground to the seat.
If you are missing either power or ground. First connect your volt meter to a good ground and test the vehicle harness for power on both pins (still unplugged) if you dont find batt.voltage on either pin iI would suspect a broken connection between the seat and switch or bad switch.
If you have batt voltage at the seat connector connect 1 lead to batt positive and probe the vehicle harness for ground (It would appear as batt voltage on your meter). If this is missing then track the bad ground wire or tap a new ground into the harness
Success! After removing the harmonic balancer and cover I found 2 teeth broken off the reluctor ring that the Crank sensor senses. I’m really surprised it ran as well as it did. Had an old one in my scrap pile from an engine swap. Runs like a champ now. Now the hard part. I can’t possibly charge this guy all the time I have in it. The gorilla who changed the T-Belt should pay the bill.
Thanks to all who responded.