[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Update:
I’ve gone mad with my multimeter, tested valves and sensors..
Guess what I found out?
The IACV is dead closed!
Changed it today, it seems to smoothen the ride even on cold engine.
Now I have to try harder to make the car jerk.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Update:
I’ve gone mad with my multimeter, tested valves and sensors..
Guess what I found out?
The IACV is dead closed!
Changed it today, it seems to smoothen the ride even on cold engine.
Now I have to try harder to make the car jerk.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Yesterday I washed out the Tap Water (!!) which filled the pervious owner.
I’ve Cleaned the thermostat housing, Installed a new Thermostat, Which for some reasone I’ve been told that it was removed.. (But surprise, it was tere!)
poured some local green “ready to use anti rust mixture”, Bled the air out of the cooling system, cooling fan kicked in properly.

Now the engine is heating well up to the middle, and the heat gauge stays in the middle during all the drive time outside and inside of the city.
(perviously outside of the city the engine was “freezing”)

Meanwhile It seems like the problem is much less pronounced if at all, when the engine work at it’s normal temperature range.

Today i’ve checked for leaks with a carb cleaner, sprayed it like you’ve shown in your video, no RPM change, engine sounds good, about 800 RPM steady warm Idle.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Yesterday I washed out the Tap Water (!!) which filled the pervious owner.
I’ve Cleaned the thermostat housing, Installed a new Thermostat, Which for some reasone I’ve been told that it was removed.. (But surprise, it was tere!)
poured some local green “ready to use anti rust mixture”, Bled the air out of the cooling system, cooling fan kicked in properly.

Now the engine is heating well up to the middle, and the heat gauge stays in the middle during all the drive time outside and inside of the city.
(perviously outside of the city the engine was “freezing”)

Meanwhile It seems like the problem is much less pronounced if at all, when the engine work at it’s normal temperature range.

Today i’ve checked for leaks with a carb cleaner, sprayed it like you’ve shown in your video, no RPM change, engine sounds good, about 800 RPM steady warm Idle.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Update:
I was wrong about the cable;

And still unable to find the source of the problem..
Meanwhile the steps I’ve done:

1)Got used Carbon cannister from a scrap car, cleaned it a bit with air pressure and connected to the lines.
1)Used K44.
2)After finishing the gas tank filled with K44, refueled and Changed the Fuel filter.
3)Listened with a Flat screwdriver to the Fuel Injectors. – all working.
4)Changed the Spark Plugs (NGK) & Cleaned the Distributor Cap (unable to find a fitting new).
5)Cleaned most of the wires from oil and corrosion, fixed some connections which broke in the process.
(due to dry plastic & overly corroded wires & ofc too much force used)
6)Cleaned most of the Vacuum lines & the Sensors which were connected to them.
7)Adjusted the Idle speed (Idle screw), Runs slower and smooth, around 800 stable warm.(lower would cause vibrations in the cabine)

Besides the moment when I realized that now I got a check engine light and my engine chokes and lowers from 3k to 2k RPMS suddenly when pressing the gas pedal.. (forgot to connect a sensor) :pinch:

Idk to tell if the engine runs smoother now or it’s just me happy that I’ve done something. B)

Inspected the problem Furturer, Reproduced it at a big parking ground.. decelerated accelerated, turned fully right and left circles (No clicking from CVs, CV boots look good)

Conclusions:
Very noitcible when playing with the gas pedal at 2K at 1st & 2nd gear – Decelerating and Accelerating (!)
Car jumps back and forth. (no rpms change)
Sometimes when I reverse and suddenly stop, I hear a Bang, like a brick moved inside.
Wierd, But I replaced an New Engne mounts, few weeks a go. 2 out of 3 (the right seems to be ok).

So what could it be?
Transmission problems? some kind of Torque converter In manual car?
Ujoints in daihatsu applause? =

Please help me at least diagnose the problem..
I can’t trust in my area at any mechanics, they want too much money for cheap parts and easy work which I could make myself like all above.
I’d better diagnose it with you and if I see I can’t handle the task, I’ll go to one mech and say exactly what I want to change so he wouldn’t throw in unneccery new parts that were working well as old.
Some say the fixing price on fly before even touching the car / looking under the hood! 🙁

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Update:
I was wrong about the cable;

And still unable to find the source of the problem..
Meanwhile the steps I’ve done:

1)Got used Carbon cannister from a scrap car, cleaned it a bit with air pressure and connected to the lines.
1)Used K44.
2)After finishing the gas tank filled with K44, refueled and Changed the Fuel filter.
3)Listened with a Flat screwdriver to the Fuel Injectors. – all working.
4)Changed the Spark Plugs (NGK) & Cleaned the Distributor Cap (unable to find a fitting new).
5)Cleaned most of the wires from oil and corrosion, fixed some connections which broke in the process.
(due to dry plastic & overly corroded wires & ofc too much force used)
6)Cleaned most of the Vacuum lines & the Sensors which were connected to them.
7)Adjusted the Idle speed (Idle screw), Runs slower and smooth, around 800 stable warm.(lower would cause vibrations in the cabine)

Besides the moment when I realized that now I got a check engine light and my engine chokes and lowers from 3k to 2k RPMS suddenly when pressing the gas pedal.. (forgot to connect a sensor) :pinch:

Idk to tell if the engine runs smoother now or it’s just me happy that I’ve done something. B)

Inspected the problem Furturer, Reproduced it at a big parking ground.. decelerated accelerated, turned fully right and left circles (No clicking from CVs, CV boots look good)

Conclusions:
Very noitcible when playing with the gas pedal at 2K at 1st & 2nd gear – Decelerating and Accelerating (!)
Car jumps back and forth. (no rpms change)
Sometimes when I reverse and suddenly stop, I hear a Bang, like a brick moved inside.
Wierd, But I replaced an New Engne mounts, few weeks a go. 2 out of 3 (the right seems to be ok).

So what could it be?
Transmission problems? some kind of Torque converter In manual car?
Ujoints in daihatsu applause? =

Please help me at least diagnose the problem..
I can’t trust in my area at any mechanics, they want too much money for cheap parts and easy work which I could make myself like all above.
I’d better diagnose it with you and if I see I can’t handle the task, I’ll go to one mech and say exactly what I want to change so he wouldn’t throw in unneccery new parts that were working well as old.
Some say the fixing price on fly before even touching the car / looking under the hood! 🙁

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Update:
Seems like im having trouble with the gas pedal itself..
I’ve read around the web that there could be a problem with a worn pedal spring that supposed to pull it back up..

I’ve checked it and it seems like what I got here..
I can move the gas pedal at some interval without actually activating the gas..so I think what happends is thst it jumps freely back and forth and causes the throttle go crazy..

Also I’ve checked the throttle cable tension, its maximum screw tensioned but still I can move the cable pretty freely inside the line.

Any thoughts on that one?

Edit:
here’s a topic with pictures from another forum about the issue

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Update:
Seems like im having trouble with the gas pedal itself..
I’ve read around the web that there could be a problem with a worn pedal spring that supposed to pull it back up..

I’ve checked it and it seems like what I got here..
I can move the gas pedal at some interval without actually activating the gas..so I think what happends is thst it jumps freely back and forth and causes the throttle go crazy..

Also I’ve checked the throttle cable tension, its maximum screw tensioned but still I can move the cable pretty freely inside the line.

Any thoughts on that one?

Edit:
here’s a topic with pictures from another forum about the issue

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

After letting friends and mechanics to drive on my car.. none of them could reproduce it.
The problem was found: Me.

Im used to drive on Diesel/Turbo Diesel vehicles like M-35 and Ford Connect..
So my poor Daihatsu is going to pass trough hell until I get used to it.

Still it sounds to me a bit wierd why would a vehicle jerk on leaving gas at 2-2.5K RPM..
Time to get a few driving courses? =

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

After letting friends and mechanics to drive on my car.. none of them could reproduce it.
The problem was found: Me.

Im used to drive on Diesel/Turbo Diesel vehicles like M-35 and Ford Connect..
So my poor Daihatsu is going to pass trough hell until I get used to it.

Still it sounds to me a bit wierd why would a vehicle jerk on leaving gas at 2-2.5K RPM..
Time to get a few driving courses? =

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Thanks Eric!
I’ve just got back from a ride so here’s a quick update before I go to bed;

I’ve noticed that when the engine is warmed up enough, it’s hard to reproduce the issue.
Also I’ve tested the gear on 2nd while holding the breaks and leaving slowly the clutch pedal, the engine stalls like it should.

Tomorrow I’ll see some local mechanic..he has more testing tools and experience, hope he would have a clue.

Surely I’ll keep you informed!

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Thanks Eric!
I’ve just got back from a ride so here’s a quick update before I go to bed;

I’ve noticed that when the engine is warmed up enough, it’s hard to reproduce the issue.
Also I’ve tested the gear on 2nd while holding the breaks and leaving slowly the clutch pedal, the engine stalls like it should.

Tomorrow I’ll see some local mechanic..he has more testing tools and experience, hope he would have a clue.

Surely I’ll keep you informed!

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

the engine sounds pretty clear to me, reving in neutral and dropping the gas cannot reproduce the symptom.
I can only reproduce it while driving in any gear.
(ofc lower gears would shake it very violently)

I’ll check for vaccum leaks, and try the sensors.. btw no check engine on.
The car is 97 but it’s engine is imported from japan.
atm supposed to stand at about 40,000km.
Besides unortunately I’m not from the states, it would be much easier with cars there..

edit: Which makes me think about possible transmission problem..
but on the other hand -why would it jerk on leaving the gas pedal?

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

the engine sounds pretty clear to me, reving in neutral and dropping the gas cannot reproduce the symptom.
I can only reproduce it while driving in any gear.
(ofc lower gears would shake it very violently)

I’ll check for vaccum leaks, and try the sensors.. btw no check engine on.
The car is 97 but it’s engine is imported from japan.
atm supposed to stand at about 40,000km.
Besides unortunately I’m not from the states, it would be much easier with cars there..

edit: Which makes me think about possible transmission problem..
but on the other hand -why would it jerk on leaving the gas pedal?

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

I guess you are right about the EVAP cannister.
made me a bit sad..as I don’t see it affects the gas pedal leaving jerking.
I’m far from finding the source again.

Don’t want to throw money on every possible part..
What so you think can lead to my car issue?

shall I track the other vaccum lines?

[Author]

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