[Dmitry Tolstoy]

No. the fuel pressure reglator isn’t there.
Open your hood, remove the plastic cover from the engine, search for the Fuel Rail and you’ll see this regulator on it.
it will look something like this:

You’ll see a vacuum hose connected onto this round thing.
when your car is cold, disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator, and start the car, and look on the regulator for dripping fuel out of it.
It could take a while until it starts to leak, so keep the car running for few minutes and watch closely until it starts to show some dripping fuel.
If the regulator spits fuel – change it. (only this little regulator) 🙂
no need to throw money on guessing, know the problem source first.
you’re welcome.

Attachments:

• Ca111pture.jpg

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Try looking at the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
It might be leaking fuel into it’s vacuum hose.
disconnect the vacuum hose and check if there’s any fuel in.
also try to start the car, disconect the vacuum hose and look if there’s any fuel coming out of the Regulator. (Caution, test only on cold car)

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Right, I remember that your distributor is new and that you have a spark, but it might be an open circuit between the ecu and the distributor.
a broken wire / loose connection somewhere on the line between.. assuming the ecu is alive and operating the ignition module but cannot get the data from the cam sensor in the distributor, to correct the ignition timing.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

if the batt is new, the starter is new, yet has no power to crank or to maintain work without extra power supply…
I would first try testing for parasitic draw.
secondly, test for alternator if it’s working properly.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Talking about Spider injection… Reminded me Eric’s good video with surprising vac leak right at the connector, caused by someone who’s been there.
so you might want to try what he did, just in case:
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAjbAzWQ0cw[/video]

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

I’ve just found an epic article that might help you very much.
Good Luck!

P.S Sorry wrong link heres the accurate FiX: Testing the Igniter for the Triggering Signal

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

To me it’s seems like a bad ignition timing.. Check the connector that goes from the Distributor.
btw do you have any codes stored?

P.S
Do you have check engine light when you turn the key into ON position?
If the check engine light dosent turn on – might be a dead ecu.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

I cannot post here a higher res as far as I tried. but, I can link the pic from my copy cloud.
so here’s the link to the full res and re edited pic, with a download button on top for full quality:
High Res

Mapping:
1,2,3,4) suspected resistors – shape, burnt, color change.
?) Unknown Suspected as damaged – Might be a protective material layer air bubble? (to verify it I should take out the ecu again)

P.S If there’s a way to post a high res pic here, It would be helpful.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

I would check the Alternator, maybe it isn’t charging,
also check the wires that go to the headlight.. maybe some isolation is off and it’s shorting with the body of the car.. or a loose and corroded contacts.

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Thanks Eric!
after seeing this video, I think I actually DO need now need a timing..
as one of the official honda dealers garage adjusted it by hearing at idle.
“Bea..utifull!”

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Thanks Eric!
after seeing this video, I think I actually DO need now need a timing..
as one of the official honda dealers garage adjusted it by hearing at idle.
“Bea..utifull!”

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Ah! Thanks! 🙂

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Ah! Thanks! 🙂

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Although the serial number leads to some MAP sensor..it’s not, confused me at first.

Attachments:

• tmp_20140222_031026283298370.jpg

[Dmitry Tolstoy]

Although the serial number leads to some MAP sensor..it’s not, confused me at first.

Attachments:

• tmp_20140222_031026283298370.jpg

[Author]

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