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Also adding to my comment above ^^^^
I did notice the other day after driving, the coolant in the overflow bottle was bubbling from the pipe going into it. Not sure if that was normal as being a hot day, but just thought I would add that. It wasn’t overheating though.The car is a 1993 Honda Accord U.S Wagon
F22a Engine
CB9 ChassisYep sorry about that,
Firstly, there is no way this light is going off. When I have the time I will get Honda Bulbs and try it with those, but in the meantime the indicator is still on.
Secondly, the hot starting issue is on the fence because I am waiting for a hot day and conditions to repeat the scenario to test if repairing the relay has helped or not.
I will report back when I know these two things are sorted.
Lastly, I was hoping I could add the coolant problem to this in the meantime while I await for the summary of the other two problems.Thanks
I’ll result to buying Honda Bulbs and report back when I do. Is their anything interesting behind the dash? or is the circuit just connected directly to a bulb?
Cheers.
Hey Eric,
Thank you for your reply! Sorry I should have mentioned, the sensors I replaced were OE Honda ones. I purchased them from a junk yard, and they looked in good condition. I did have some sucess the other day however, I hoped in the car and turned the key to II position and all the lights when off including the indicator thinking I had solved it. As soon as I cranked the engine the light came back on and has stayed on. I took half the boot out to find the connectors and cleaned those all up. So I am left stuck as I have new sensors, new bulbs and clean connectors. Would you suggest anything else I could check? Do you think genuine honda bulbs would help? or should I try cleaning the light fittings out more? as thats what I did prior to it going out for the time it did.Damien
Hey Guys, Quick update on the sensor situation..
I managed to locate the sensors (they were attached the outer lights) and I found some new ones for $7 and poped them in.
I still have the same issue as this did not fix anything. I have now replaced the bulbs, and sensors. And have no idea what is left in the circuit? The only things I can think of are something to do with the ground? But all the ground connectors look ok. Is their a fuse for this circuit?
Anyone have any more idea?Thanks
DamienThanks Bad_dude, and Eric.
I’ll try and replace the other two bulbs that I haven’t replaced yet..
Also I do want to find the sensor boxes so i can just have a look. Where do i find them on the station wagon? because the lights just have pop out fittings for the bulbs.Cheers
Hi Guys, I have officially replaced all the bulbs now, including the high brake lamp. Still have the ‘Brake Lamp’ Light on.
Does anyone know where the sensors are on the Honda Accord 1993 Wagon? The bulbs push into a holder which screw onto the light fitting so there is no box connected in the tail lights. Any ideas?
Cheers
Thanks for your replies! Much appreciated. I couldn’t get any more information. However I was reading this article I found which is related to my problem which might be of use http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3009319
I have the Accord Wagon so I am not sure where I am able to find the Sensors.Cheers
Thanks again for your replies! 🙂
Bad_dude: Thank you for your advice. My Honda is a 1993 Accord Wagon one of the U.S models. It has done 245,940km. But I am not sure where to locate the sensors on the wagon model. Might be worth having a look at the ignition switch actually.
I’ll try find the sensors, and re-solder the joints and seeing if that helps as sometimes they dry out.
I’ll post back if I can find them.
Cheers
I’m with Eric on checking the cluster for the tach.. As for the lights I know on some Accords they have a dimmer switch. If your model has one, I would investigate around that as well, as they have been know to go bad.
If your going to do a flush on a Honda Transmission, do it the ‘Honda way’. This involves draining the old fluid and topping it up with some new fluid *Making sure you use Genuine Honda Fluid* (3 quartz) Drive your car around for a while, then empty the fluid again and re-fill. Do this three times as this ensures the transmission is cleaned out properly. <---- Best was to go without getting a machine flush done.
Thanks for the replies guys. I’ll check out the ignition switch first, then check out the connections on the main relay. I should probably have mentioned that a while ago the key did get stuck in there once. meaning when you push it to remove it, it would get stuck. But I never forced anything I just kept gently moving it about until It finally let go. It hasn’t done it since. But I am wondering if something in there has worn out? I’ll investigate and report back.
Also if I may add, I have a brake indicator lamp on (Not the handbrake light) but the light which comes on when a bulb is out. I have checked all by bulbs and none are blown. I also ensured that all of them have a silver base. I can’t seem to work out what is going on here. The otherday when I was out at night, did notice that it went out for the first time, but when i started the car up it came back on again. I am guessing this is to do with the actual circuit? there appears to be no corrosion at any of the wires. Just thought I would see if anyone could help out there.Thanks
Hi Guys, Here is an update. I have had another look into this Brake Indicator Lamp Issue. I remember I brought two LED bulbs for the numberplate so I thought I would change those just to be sure. Also I checked the brake bulbs and found one side was a 6W and the other was a 5W so I went out and brought two new 5W bulbs for each side as well as new 5W numberplate bulbs. Still hasen’t fixed anything. Is their a fuse I need to pull to reset the warning? or should this just go out once the problem is resolved? My next area is too look at the circuit for this. I have the 1993 Accord Station Wagon. Any ideas where the circuit is located on these? I am guessing it is somewhere in the back?
Cheers
DamienAs Eric said, I would go with checking the fuses…
Also I recommend checking the voltage to the wiper motor with a multi meter.
If there is voltage at the motor but no operation then chances are it could be the motor. -
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