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Thanks for the reply Eric,
Sorry I should have been more specific. Nothing related to the indicators here, but these are seperate lights which light up only when the headlights are turned on. I think you call them directional side lights. I just wasn’t sure where I should wire them to. They are supposed to work with the the indicators only when the headlights are turned on but only one side will light up at a time depending on the direction you are indicating.Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply Eric,
Sorry I should have been more specific. Nothing related to the indicators here, but these are seperate lights which light up only when the headlights are turned on. I think you call them directional side lights. I just wasn’t sure where I should wire them to. They are supposed to work with the the indicators only when the headlights are turned on but only one side will light up at a time depending on the direction you are indicating.Hope this helps.
Hi Guys, just an update to let you know I have solved the problem._x000D_
I have a tester here at home myself so pulled it out to find out what was happening. And found that after jump starting the car, it would stay idle, but it measured only 12v and slowly stThanks for the awesome responses guys._x000D_
In theory the car should be able to idle without the battery. So my plan now is to swap out the batteries and see if the car has a better reading then, and also remove the battery and see if the car can hold its idlNew Zealand yes! – Sorry i’m used to using those terms 😉 ._x000D_
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Eric, thanks for the reply i’ll sort it out today and post back._x000D_
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ThanksNo worries, thank you guys. Seeing as this is a U.S Wagon here in New Zealand it is hard to find them at a wreaker with oil coolers. I just wanted to do something for now to get it driving until I can track down a pipe. As long as I will be fine to tap a
Yeah, I believe the Oil Filter Cooler line runs in from the the heater core and the outward flow from the cooler goes back into the main pipe. So seeing as the main pipe I put in was made for this car but without the oil cooler, I thought about just putti
I had the same issue, balancing and aligning the tires wouldn’t change anything. Turned out even though the rim was straight it had a balance issue. So the best idea to try first is rotate the wheels (Front to back) and see if there is any change. Once i
Thanks Eric. With my engine it also has a balancer belt… do you advice keeping that belt quite slack? I have the timing belt nice and tight but I left the balancer looser this time which fixed the noise. I may have to replace the tensioners at some point as the car makes a sound like this one – (not the first bit when the window is wound down but when they rev it slightly) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shMCT7yuXpA I am pretty sure it is the tensioners because it comes from somewhere in the timing covers. The waterpump was turning freely without grinding when I was in there so its either the tensioners or something else going on.
Let me know your view on this one.Thanks
DamienIf you are having the Head machined, you won’t need to clean the surface on that. However for the block, use a thumb sized piece of wet and dry sandpaper and gently work around the tops of the cylinders where the gasket seals. I find using your thumb works best for this. After your happy with the outcome, clean the dust off with a rag and use Mineral turpentine on the rag to clean around where you sanded. – Put some old rags in the oil passages and in the bores to help keep the dust out. But before bolting it all together again, just blast the bores out with compressed air.
Thanks for the replies!
Its not causing any issues at the moment, so I will get into it when I can. I spent some time re-building a new head as the old one warped and was loosing coolant into the cylinders. I have to drill out a manifold bolt which snapped (due to age and heat, not my torque measurements) anyway so i’ll re-check it all then. I originally had a faint noise, and since having all the timing belts and drive belts off I is now louder. So it could just be something simple.Will keep you posted.
I still need to find an easy way to get the bolt out :-/. Its the bolt which is closest to the power steering pump so I will have to take the bracket off the power steering pump and drill the bolt out. I had to drill out another as it also broke, but was easier to access so drilled down the center of the bolt and got a tool which you tap in to the hole with a hammer and use a spanner to turn the bolt out.
Thanks for your replies guys. The car will do this with the lights on or off, as the dash lights flicker as well. Same with the interior lights. The headlights just join in once they come on.
Couldn’t find an issue with the voltage or anything.
Cheers
Hi Guys,
getting back to the main issue of the topic! ‘Hot Start Problems’ I removed the main relay, and found some hairline cracks in a few of the pins. I re-soldered those so all I have to do is wait for another Hot day to see if it will play up.
One other point I would like to ask, is I have an issue with coolant.. In the overflow bottle I usually top it up in between the lines of where it should have fluid. However after a few drives all the water disappears from the overflow bottle, but the radiator still has coolant in it when I remove the cap (when cold) as it is at the top. I had a compression test done on the car yesterday, and all cylinders a dead equal so no trouble there. Anyone have any idea? there is no water in the oil or combustion chamber as I removed the sparks and they seem ok. No water leaks on the ground either.Cheers
Damien