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Thanks for your reply hpmax
I was aware of some calipers being screwed in to compress them. My old Accord had that setup. But this Accord is just a standard push in piston.
I have had a look around the car and followed the brake lines and cannot find any collapsed or damaged lines.
I had performed a fluid replacement and brake bleed when I originally replaced the caliper which was not long ago but sadly that made no difference.I am also wondering if the second hand caliper I put on also has an issue. I can compress the piston fine as if I was changing brake pads, but maybe it has an issue retracting. As all three of the other calipers are working with no issues at all and have the same temperature except for this one.
Thanks for your reply nightflyr
I think what I will do is take it for a small but hard drive around the block and come home and jack it up straight away and release the bleed valve and if it releases the piston I will know if it is the caliper or something with the hydraulics.Okay so a quick update:
Tonight I changed the gearbox oil (with genuine Honda CVT fluid) and that completely fixed the gearbox shudder. It’s running like a new car.
I also did an oil change, so that side of things is fine now.However I’m still having no luck with this idle.
I started with the basics again tonight and re-bled the cooling system, took the Idle Air Control Valve off and cleaned that out with brake clean, checked vacuum hoses and everything appeared ok.I did however notice the Check engine light was back on. I pulled the code and it’s giving me a P1167 code with the description: Air/Fuel Ration (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction A/F sensor heater, or Heated Oxygen Sensor Sensor 1 (Primary LAF H02S) Heater System Malfunction A/F sensor heater.
I had this code once before about a year ago which ended up being the oxygen sensor because it wasn’t getting a reading in the live view on the scanner. Upon replacing that last time the light went away, but the idle still remained.
Now that I have this code again, I checked the live view and both the oxygen sensors a reading fine.
Could this mean it’s the air flow sensor? – If so where on the D15B is it located?Thanks!
DamienNo previous codes. I checked with my code scanner when I had the CEL for the Oxygen Sensor.
The car in my profile picture is my Corolla RSI 🙂
OK – An update for those interested. After having stripped the Subaru engine down I have now finished the re build. I removed all the valves and had both heads skimmed. Once they came back they looked pretty nice.. Anyway I assembled those with new valve seals, cleaned up the valves and lapped them in. I ended up buying brand new head bolts to save the risk of breaking the old ones, so the heads bolted up nicely with the new three layer gaskets. (Definitely much more durable compared to the old gaskets). Obviously I also replaced the cam seals, crank seal etc. New waterpump & Cambelt – (FYI: If you buy a Gates brand Timing belt, they give you marks on it to help you line it up. Very useful for the DOHC engine as there are about 5 marks to line up overall, and there is no way to get it wrong) Then after that it was basically do the sump gasket and small things like that, and throw it back in the car. I got around to starting it the other night and have been driving it around the pass few days with no overheating. I can call this case closed!!
I have attached some pictures below for future reference:
This is how the old gaskets looked when I first removed the heads
I actually came across this, and the flexplate had cracked around the bolt holes, this ended up being the knocking noise I could hear.
My valve storage, didn’t fancy dropping them everywhere…
FYI: Leave the torque converter behind as it’s a time consuming process to get it back in…
Preeeeeeety heads 😀
Unfortunately in this photo I had moved the timing marks, so cannot point out the marks they give you on the belt
Closer shot
Thanks for all the great help!
OK – An update for those interested. After having stripped the Subaru engine down I have now finished the re build. I removed all the valves and had both heads skimmed. Once they came back they looked pretty nice.. Anyway I assembled those with new valve seals, cleaned up the valves and lapped them in. I ended up buying brand new head bolts to save the risk of breaking the old ones, so the heads bolted up nicely with the new three layer gaskets. (Definitely much more durable compared to the old gaskets). Obviously I also replaced the cam seals, crank seal etc. New waterpump & Cambelt – (FYI: If you buy a Gates brand Timing belt, they give you marks on it to help you line it up. Very useful for the DOHC engine as there are about 5 marks to line up overall, and there is no way to get it wrong) Then after that it was basically do the sump gasket and small things like that, and throw it back in the car. I got around to starting it the other night and have been driving it around the pass few days with no overheating. I can call this case closed!!
I have attached some pictures below for future reference:
This is how the old gaskets looked when I first removed the heads
I actually came across this, and the flexplate had cracked around the bolt holes, this ended up being the knocking noise I could hear.
My valve storage, didn’t fancy dropping them everywhere…
FYI: Leave the torque converter behind as it’s a time consuming process to get it back in…
Preeeeeeety heads 😀
Unfortunately in this photo I had moved the timing marks, so cannot point out the marks they give you on the belt
Closer shot
Thanks for all the great help!
Thanks for your reply valde, one thing I just found out.. The Oxygen sensor I replaced it with has the same plug but different colour wires. It has the same thread and came off the same car. But the end of it definitely looks smaller. Also when I put the replacement 02 Sensor on the CEL stays off for a long time compared to the old sensor. But the car idle bounces while accelerating with the new sensor in, so I put the faulty one back in. But what was interesting was the Code reader was showing no reading for the primary 02 while we were driving. Checked every fuse, and all is good.
Thanks for your reply valde, one thing I just found out.. The Oxygen sensor I replaced it with has the same plug but different colour wires. It has the same thread and came off the same car. But the end of it definitely looks smaller. Also when I put the replacement 02 Sensor on the CEL stays off for a long time compared to the old sensor. But the car idle bounces while accelerating with the new sensor in, so I put the faulty one back in. But what was interesting was the Code reader was showing no reading for the primary 02 while we were driving. Checked every fuse, and all is good.
So I have an update, had the car come back to me today for a good look. I had a spare 02 Sensor which I swapped out to see if it helped, but no joy, the CEL still came back on. So if the 02 Sensor isn’t throwing the code, what else is? (college man) -> Thanks for that link, i’ve had a look through the car and no fuses are blown. The 02 Sensor I changed was the one the Code Scanner listed (Primary). Need to get this sorted as soon as I can.
Appreciate all the help so far – Thank you guys
Cheers!!
So I have an update, had the car come back to me today for a good look. I had a spare 02 Sensor which I swapped out to see if it helped, but no joy, the CEL still came back on. So if the 02 Sensor isn’t throwing the code, what else is? (college man) -> Thanks for that link, i’ve had a look through the car and no fuses are blown. The 02 Sensor I changed was the one the Code Scanner listed (Primary). Need to get this sorted as soon as I can.
Appreciate all the help so far – Thank you guys
Cheers!!
Update: After having received the heads back from the machine shop I have lapped all the valves in, and I have them all ready to go. But I just have a bit of a question before I go any further… I hear these Subarus use Torque To Yield bolts. Just wanted to know the deal on these, are they able to be re-used? or are they a MUST to replace? don’t want to go to all this trouble and find they break half way through…
Cheers!
Update: After having received the heads back from the machine shop I have lapped all the valves in, and I have them all ready to go. But I just have a bit of a question before I go any further… I hear these Subarus use Torque To Yield bolts. Just wanted to know the deal on these, are they able to be re-used? or are they a MUST to replace? don’t want to go to all this trouble and find they break half way through…
Cheers!
Hey Guys, thought you might like an update… I’ve finally gotten around to pulling the engine and removing the heads… I have attached a photo of the headgasket still attached to the head. The otherside was exactly the same, and there was evidence of dried up coolant in in a couple of the cylinders. I think this might well be the overheating / misfire issue. Take a look…
Hey Guys, thought you might like an update… I’ve finally gotten around to pulling the engine and removing the heads… I have attached a photo of the headgasket still attached to the head. The otherside was exactly the same, and there was evidence of dried up coolant in in a couple of the cylinders. I think this might well be the overheating / misfire issue. Take a look…
Thanks for the reply Eric,
I too think this may be a head gasket issue. If I may ask your opinion.. is it easy enough to pull the engine and leave the gearbox behind? As it looks as though by removing the radiator and fans that if you loosen the gearbox from the engine it will just come forward and out. Anyway before I go this far, like you say I will do a compression test first and few other small bits.Will keep you guys posted.
Cheers!
