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I was in your shoes some time ago. When i got my first car, i knew nothing about how to turn a wrench let alone a simple oil change. I started by deciding to do my own oil changes. I would drive to my friends house and use his dads craftmen set.
My first set of tools i actually got from lowes called Task Force. It was the 179 piece set that came with everything i needed to do various jobs such as a timing belt, oil changes and other small jobs like brakes and suspension. I loved that tool set and i still have it 4 years later. i liked it because it came with larger sockets that the more expensive Kobalt set didnt. With the cheap set, i was able to remove the axle nut because it came with a 32 mm socket lol. Now i use a craftman set because i recived it as a gift from my father.
Most other tools you buy as you learn. Its more like a collection and arsenal than a necessity.
Alright now, it all depends how much you are willing to spend. Its nice to have a 301 piece set, but in my opinion its not necessary. you will do just fine with a 150 or 179 piece as long as it has ratchets and sockets of various sizes (1/2, 3/8, 1/4). most if those sets come with a standard sparkplug socket and various extensions. Next i suggest if funds allow to get a plier set, one long needle nose pleirs too. finally i would get a click style torque wrench to torque the wheels and other various bolts. It doesnt have to be expensive ( we’re not building engines here) i still have my $25 torque wrench that i bought a long time ago to torque wheels and other bolts. Specialty tools and sockets such as 02 sensor sockets and axlenut sockets you can rent from most autoparts stores so no need to buy. A jack and a set of jack stands is another thing too.
The brand is up to you. i never personaly used the Pittsburg brand ( harborfrieght) sockets (although people have used them with good results they will get the job done), but i have used a large stores cheap brand rather than their name brand ( task force rather than Kobalt, or great neck rather than craftman) with good results. I prefered the task force more or less because it was my first tool set, like a first love lol :). Are the name brands better than the off brand ?probably. Are there tools better than others, definitely. Right now ,on what ever you decide, the important thing is to learn how to use them. Start with oil changes, get a feel about how your ratchet works and how much torque your applying to a bolt. All the other tools youll get as you go. Im sure others will chime in and give better advice than what i have to offer lol. Im just letting you know from my experience. Youll learn alot about how a car works and more personally about your own car. I shouls say that over the years, the head aches and back aches were well worth thr experience of learning about the machine known as your car.
I hope that helps and i pray everything goes well for you
Happy wrenchingChris
I was in your shoes some time ago. When i got my first car, i knew nothing about how to turn a wrench let alone a simple oil change. I started by deciding to do my own oil changes. I would drive to my friends house and use his dads craftmen set.
My first set of tools i actually got from lowes called Task Force. It was the 179 piece set that came with everything i needed to do various jobs such as a timing belt, oil changes and other small jobs like brakes and suspension. I loved that tool set and i still have it 4 years later. i liked it because it came with larger sockets that the more expensive Kobalt set didnt. With the cheap set, i was able to remove the axle nut because it came with a 32 mm socket lol. Now i use a craftman set because i recived it as a gift from my father.
Most other tools you buy as you learn. Its more like a collection and arsenal than a necessity.
Alright now, it all depends how much you are willing to spend. Its nice to have a 301 piece set, but in my opinion its not necessary. you will do just fine with a 150 or 179 piece as long as it has ratchets and sockets of various sizes (1/2, 3/8, 1/4). most if those sets come with a standard sparkplug socket and various extensions. Next i suggest if funds allow to get a plier set, one long needle nose pleirs too. finally i would get a click style torque wrench to torque the wheels and other various bolts. It doesnt have to be expensive ( we’re not building engines here) i still have my $25 torque wrench that i bought a long time ago to torque wheels and other bolts. Specialty tools and sockets such as 02 sensor sockets and axlenut sockets you can rent from most autoparts stores so no need to buy. A jack and a set of jack stands is another thing too.
The brand is up to you. i never personaly used the Pittsburg brand ( harborfrieght) sockets (although people have used them with good results they will get the job done), but i have used a large stores cheap brand rather than their name brand ( task force rather than Kobalt, or great neck rather than craftman) with good results. I prefered the task force more or less because it was my first tool set, like a first love lol :). Are the name brands better than the off brand ?probably. Are there tools better than others, definitely. Right now ,on what ever you decide, the important thing is to learn how to use them. Start with oil changes, get a feel about how your ratchet works and how much torque your applying to a bolt. All the other tools youll get as you go. Im sure others will chime in and give better advice than what i have to offer lol. Im just letting you know from my experience. Youll learn alot about how a car works and more personally about your own car. I shouls say that over the years, the head aches and back aches were well worth thr experience of learning about the machine known as your car.
I hope that helps and i pray everything goes well for you
Happy wrenchingChris
I assumed that all honda heads used lost motion assemblies, the difference being the vtech assemblies having different oil passages that would activate when the car reaches a certain oil pressure that pushes a lock pin to activate the more aggressive cam lobes otherwise known as vtech. Thus why the assemblies from a vtech head look way different from a non vtech. I think eric explains it as well and there are various youtube vids that explain better than i just did.
Are these the assemblies you are referring to swapping? So in essence, you are removing the vtech assembly for a non vtech assembly? Correct me if I am wrong.
I run copper ngks in my honda always, however i have used champion plugs once for a little while due to unforeseen circumstances with no problems lol. My issue seems to be pinging possibly from the higher compression from the head being resurfaced or ignition or cam advance from the head being resurfaced throwing off the cam timing a lil.
Keep us posted on the job. =]
Chris
I assumed that all honda heads used lost motion assemblies, the difference being the vtech assemblies having different oil passages that would activate when the car reaches a certain oil pressure that pushes a lock pin to activate the more aggressive cam lobes otherwise known as vtech. Thus why the assemblies from a vtech head look way different from a non vtech. I think eric explains it as well and there are various youtube vids that explain better than i just did.
Are these the assemblies you are referring to swapping? So in essence, you are removing the vtech assembly for a non vtech assembly? Correct me if I am wrong.
I run copper ngks in my honda always, however i have used champion plugs once for a little while due to unforeseen circumstances with no problems lol. My issue seems to be pinging possibly from the higher compression from the head being resurfaced or ignition or cam advance from the head being resurfaced throwing off the cam timing a lil.
Keep us posted on the job. =]
Chris
Forgive me, it was on the right not the left side on ur civic.
Thanks Raistian77 for the correction and pics
Forgive me, it was on the right not the left side on ur civic.
Thanks Raistian77 for the correction and pics
There is no egr system on this engine. The only engine of that year that has an EGR system is the vx or the d16y5.
Im certain its pinging or detonation. When it does occur at partial throttle under load it sounds like rice randomly falling on foil. Its erratic, random, popping like. Valve train noise is systematic tapping that signifies a need for a valve adjustment. I had this car long enough to know the difference for I dealt with both noises. The first time it pinged way before the head gasket it was due to the valves being way out of adjustment and the ignition timing being a little too advanced. A new timing belt, ignition timing, and valve adjustment solved that issue. After that job it was a brand new motor. I wish i can say that about the head gasket job. I tried several valve adjustments, another timing belt, ignition timing adjustments with no avail 🙁 . I learned alot through the process however :cheer:
Thanks for the reply, im trying so hard to think back on what i did.
Chris
There is no egr system on this engine. The only engine of that year that has an EGR system is the vx or the d16y5.
Im certain its pinging or detonation. When it does occur at partial throttle under load it sounds like rice randomly falling on foil. Its erratic, random, popping like. Valve train noise is systematic tapping that signifies a need for a valve adjustment. I had this car long enough to know the difference for I dealt with both noises. The first time it pinged way before the head gasket it was due to the valves being way out of adjustment and the ignition timing being a little too advanced. A new timing belt, ignition timing, and valve adjustment solved that issue. After that job it was a brand new motor. I wish i can say that about the head gasket job. I tried several valve adjustments, another timing belt, ignition timing adjustments with no avail 🙁 . I learned alot through the process however :cheer:
Thanks for the reply, im trying so hard to think back on what i did.
Chris
Yes, look at ur fuel rail and youll see it on ur model civic on top towards the left. itll have a skinny vacuum hose comming out of it that leads to the intake manifold.
Yes, look at ur fuel rail and youll see it on ur model civic on top towards the left. itll have a skinny vacuum hose comming out of it that leads to the intake manifold.
again guys thanks for the responses.
The compression test is still on hold ( life, school and work happens, my wife is more important than a whole day with my car 😛 and i love that she is very forgiving), but will come eventually.
One thing i recall honda heads having are three to four little tabs that will let you know how much can be removed from the head without thowing off compression and timing enough to cause any issues. hopefully eric can correct my if im wrong. if my memory serves me those tabs on the head i received where untouched. lf there is anything other than higher compression that would cause my pinging issue please let me know
thank you
Chris
again guys thanks for the responses.
The compression test is still on hold ( life, school and work happens, my wife is more important than a whole day with my car 😛 and i love that she is very forgiving), but will come eventually.
One thing i recall honda heads having are three to four little tabs that will let you know how much can be removed from the head without thowing off compression and timing enough to cause any issues. hopefully eric can correct my if im wrong. if my memory serves me those tabs on the head i received where untouched. lf there is anything other than higher compression that would cause my pinging issue please let me know
thank you
Chris
Your symptoms are the same ones i had when my gasket blew. But like every one else said it could be alot of things. The over heating leads me to a head gasket because of the rough idle and stall after a hot shutoff for ten minutes, but then normal after that initial bad start. In my case it was a leak in the gasket that would cause coolant to seep by the pressure of the cooling system. My car would start rough and sometimes die after a hot shut off but run normal after that initial start. The only way i knew was for one, the cooling system was overly pressurized due to the compression gasses seeping past the leak, my over flow would have bubbles coming out like it was boiling, i blew several coolant hoses, and finally i removed my sparkplugs (when cold) stuck a vacuum hose in the cylinder and took it out. I found it covered in coolant (not alot but a very notable amount). my spark plugs where wet a little as well and not with fuel.
Again follow the others suggestions, but past experience tells me your mechanic is not far off