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I think I finally narrowed the sound down to the crank pulley, but would there be any quick tests like remove the belts and see if the noise is still there.
It is no longer squealing, but it is still clicking, growling.
I think I finally narrowed the sound down to the crank pulley, but would there be any quick tests like remove the belts and see if the noise is still there.
It is no longer squealing, but it is still clicking, growling.
[quote=”fitone” post=32939]I doubt that the cover bolts and crank pulley are interfering with one another. If you remove the lower cover you will see what I mean. The 2003-2007 V6 Accords did have an issue with the lower cover and crank pulley rubbing. Perhaps that is what that person was reffering to ? The timing belt(actually two belts under the cover) and water pump should be replaced every 90,000 miles on that generation Accord. So with 180,000 on your car you should be considering doing this maintenance unless you have records that tell you otherwise. I think the noise that you are hearing is related to either the pump or one of the idler pulleys.[/quote]
I think your right. But just as an update it is no longer squealing, it is now growling all the time.
[quote=”fitone” post=32939]I doubt that the cover bolts and crank pulley are interfering with one another. If you remove the lower cover you will see what I mean. The 2003-2007 V6 Accords did have an issue with the lower cover and crank pulley rubbing. Perhaps that is what that person was reffering to ? The timing belt(actually two belts under the cover) and water pump should be replaced every 90,000 miles on that generation Accord. So with 180,000 on your car you should be considering doing this maintenance unless you have records that tell you otherwise. I think the noise that you are hearing is related to either the pump or one of the idler pulleys.[/quote]
I think your right. But just as an update it is no longer squealing, it is now growling all the time.
I love it. I’ve used it for a couple of years now and you can find common issues and fixes. It also has OEM resources and online manuals.
It does cost a pretty penny a couple grand a year.
Here is there free version with a select few cars:
Just click on Click Here to try it out
I love it. I’ve used it for a couple of years now and you can find common issues and fixes. It also has OEM resources and online manuals.
It does cost a pretty penny a couple grand a year.
Here is there free version with a select few cars:
Just click on Click Here to try it out
Ya I have no idea when the timing belt was last changed. And the only other piece of info I can give is that the noise is not persistent, it comes and goes. It starts quiet then gets louder, then gurgles, then stops and starts all over again. I can even hear it when I’m driving.
It sounds like I’m being chased by birds when I’m driving the chirp is consistent.
On another site, someone said maybe it could be lower timing belt cover bolts rubbing on the crank pulley. Does that sound like it could be that? Either way i’m going to check tomorrow.
Ya I have no idea when the timing belt was last changed. And the only other piece of info I can give is that the noise is not persistent, it comes and goes. It starts quiet then gets louder, then gurgles, then stops and starts all over again. I can even hear it when I’m driving.
It sounds like I’m being chased by birds when I’m driving the chirp is consistent.
On another site, someone said maybe it could be lower timing belt cover bolts rubbing on the crank pulley. Does that sound like it could be that? Either way i’m going to check tomorrow.
Ya I just cleaned the IACV and FITV, and adjusted the FITV. The car I have is a 5-speed. I just did a tune up not long ago which included cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. And when I bought the car it was sitting for 2 years not running because of the dizzy. I changed the fuel filter fuel pressure regulator, and the coil and it ran good.
I would set my base idle, but the idle screw doesn’t move it is frozen. And you can’t heat the white metal well so that isn’t a idea either, The only thing I was thinking was to pull the TB again and put it in a vice then get my weight on the screw and maybe it will turn, but I don’t want to break it.
Today I reset the base timing to 15 degrees and the idle stopped dropping when I gave it gas then let it idle.
it will idle at 850 with headlights on and then not drop when I turn them off, but if I let it idle enough it will drop to 780.
Oh yeah right now my base idle is at 650, it used to be 550
I just went and checked the iacv it is throwing 12 ohms constant. So that is still good. I have the FITV screwed all the way backed out by 1/2 a turn. It warms up at 1600 and when it idles it does go down to 750, but after a little while it may or may not go up to 800. But it still drops way down when I press the gas and then let it idle, it will go up with the gas, then drop to about 600 then bounce back to 750-800.
Any other ideas. I have the starter valve disabled, because it causes a looping idle. It ran good before.
What can I check, coolant is good no air.throttle body is clean. throttle cable is good. IACV and FITV are clean, and working.
Oh yeah this is with no accessories. with accessories it idles consistanly at 850. But when I give it gas then let it drop it will drop to about 700 then bounce back.
The base idle is at 650, but I can’t adjust it.
In your opinion what should I do I already cleaned the IACV, FITV checked for vacuum leaks, made sure the butterfly is closed all the way, but still same story. Like I said it was all good until I removed the TB to clean it. Anyway that carbon was holding back air? Or the rip in the gasket is causing a small vacuum leak? Should I pull the TB again but this time add some silicone gasket the pop the gasket on then put it back together?
Oh yeah I also reset the ECU twice!
I didn’t over tighten the plug. I hand Tighten them then just snug them with the wrench. But I do think it has to do with that plug wire.
Ya thats what I thought was weird. It did snap on really well. Today I took off the boot so I could see the prong and it was stretched a little, so I bent them back in. I’ll see how it does and I’ll write back.
Today I removed the rubber boot off the plug wire and bent the two prongs in on the metal conductor thingy and it seems to have fixed my problem with both the plug wire riding up and the shudder.
My only question is does the rocker assembly have to be torqued down. Only because I don’t have a torque wrench here. I guess I can wait until school and borrow it form auto.
Do the valves become out of adjustment after you remove that? And if it is not torqued right will the valves come out of adjustment?