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And yes wire 3 was the one I was reading while applying vacuum, Like I said I did the same test on another Honda.
EDIT: I’ve ran it a bit since doing these voltage test too. I’m going to recheck these readings and post them tomorrow, I’ll also probe near the ecu on wire 3 to see if I get the same result. Thanks for helping so far, I think I’ve done nothing but confuse you too though.
I’m sorry if I’m confusing but if I’m getting the 5v power on wire 1, wire 2 is grounded correctly, and the map sensor works, I really should see the change in wire 3 whether I’m near the connector or at the ECU.
My view on this: Wire one supplies 5v that passes though the grounded map sensor which regulates the voltage that goes out through wire 3 depending on vacuum. NO other voltage is going through wire 3 other than what the map sensor sends. So why is 5v going through and not varying, Just really confused. Haha
I’m sorry if I’m confusing but if I’m getting the 5v power on wire 1, wire 2 is grounded correctly, and the map sensor works, I really should see the change in wire 3 whether I’m near the connector or at the ECU.
My view on this: Wire one supplies 5v that passes though the grounded map sensor which regulates the voltage that goes out through wire 3 depending on vacuum. NO other voltage is going through wire 3 other than what the map sensor sends. So why is 5v going through and not varying, Just really confused. Haha
I’ve tried searching a online diagram to help out but no luck. I have the one from the Haynes manual. All three wires do indeed go to the ECU So I believe the ECU does supply the ground.
Everything else looks correct.
Wire 3 should have the same voltage if it’s not bad/grounded near the ECU correct?
I’ve tried searching a online diagram to help out but no luck. I have the one from the Haynes manual. All three wires do indeed go to the ECU So I believe the ECU does supply the ground.
Everything else looks correct.
Wire 3 should have the same voltage if it’s not bad/grounded near the ECU correct?
Used this page to test it.
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.5L-1.6L/how-to-test-the-map-sensor-2
The 12v ground is plugging the second wire (ground wire) with one connector and touching the battery with the other.I have an ecu pinout so I can trace where the map sensor wires are going to in the ECU but after that I get lost in the sea of wires.
ECU does provide the Ground. So you’re telling me to test the voltage by piercing the control wire near the ECU to see if I’m getting the same reading? Or test the ground?
Used this page to test it.
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.5L-1.6L/how-to-test-the-map-sensor-2
The 12v ground is plugging the second wire (ground wire) with one connector and touching the battery with the other.I have an ecu pinout so I can trace where the map sensor wires are going to in the ECU but after that I get lost in the sea of wires.
ECU does provide the Ground. So you’re telling me to test the voltage by piercing the control wire near the ECU to see if I’m getting the same reading? Or test the ground?
91 honda CRX HF
Used ohm meter to test resistance (around 8 ohms, which is what I got just touching the two leads together, also used the beeping continuative setting. Terminal does not seem to be backed out of the ECU end, it’s tight with little play with gentle pulling. I replaced the connector on the map sensor end to see if it the connection just wasn’t good and no luck. I used my mouth to apply vacuum while checking with the meter (key on engine off tested, worked on the other Honda so I know it’s a viable way). I can move the map sensor to get to it easily so testing is easier than other cars. 🙂91 honda CRX HF
Used ohm meter to test resistance (around 8 ohms, which is what I got just touching the two leads together, also used the beeping continuative setting. Terminal does not seem to be backed out of the ECU end, it’s tight with little play with gentle pulling. I replaced the connector on the map sensor end to see if it the connection just wasn’t good and no luck. I used my mouth to apply vacuum while checking with the meter (key on engine off tested, worked on the other Honda so I know it’s a viable way). I can move the map sensor to get to it easily so testing is easier than other cars. 🙂Also the car is running pretty rich, you can smell gas pretty bad when it’s idling. I don’t have any other codes besides the Map sensor code 3/5 which that problem is addressed in another forum/ no answers on here so I decided it was better to keep it simple, but could that be causing it to idle high too? I know the ECT has something to do with running rich but no codes for that (bad sensor can make the car dump more fuel because it thinks it’s cold.) I don’t have radiator fans while it’s running but they do work and I’ve eliminated everything I can think of except the relay, I’ll be testing that tomorrow. Also no cat, sorry guys it was beat it out or spend money to get a new one quicker that I want to.
Also the car is running pretty rich, you can smell gas pretty bad when it’s idling. I don’t have any other codes besides the Map sensor code 3/5 which that problem is addressed in another forum/ no answers on here so I decided it was better to keep it simple, but could that be causing it to idle high too? I know the ECT has something to do with running rich but no codes for that (bad sensor can make the car dump more fuel because it thinks it’s cold.) I don’t have radiator fans while it’s running but they do work and I’ve eliminated everything I can think of except the relay, I’ll be testing that tomorrow. Also no cat, sorry guys it was beat it out or spend money to get a new one quicker that I want to.
It did lower it a bit when I covered the IAC passage but only to 1k. My Idle cable is set at the distance the Haynes manual says.
It did lower it a bit when I covered the IAC passage but only to 1k. My Idle cable is set at the distance the Haynes manual says.