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Better late than never for an update. The issue ended up being the wiring. I was able to replace that then used my code scanner and found out that one of my wheel sensors had gone bad. Popped a new one in and the ABS light has been off for good for three months now.
Just wanted to thank Eric and everyone for their assistance.
Better late than never for an update. The issue ended up being the wiring. I was able to replace that then used my code scanner and found out that one of my wheel sensors had gone bad. Popped a new one in and the ABS light has been off for good for three months now.
Just wanted to thank Eric and everyone for their assistance.
Well for specifics I posted that in my ABS thread under the Service and Repair questions forum.
However, I was hoping to use this thread as a vehicle for compiling a list of good overall sources and suppliers for OEM and Aftermarket replacement parts in general.
Well for specifics I posted that in my ABS thread under the Service and Repair questions forum.
However, I was hoping to use this thread as a vehicle for compiling a list of good overall sources and suppliers for OEM and Aftermarket replacement parts in general.
have you tried bleeding it? to see if that helps any…
Although its not a fix-all, it will help you get a better idea of how much fluid is actually in the power steering system, and if it was low due to air being trapped in the system then most likely the noise would go away unless there was an actual issue with one of the components, like those that Lord lhcalam has suggested.
have you tried bleeding it? to see if that helps any…
Although its not a fix-all, it will help you get a better idea of how much fluid is actually in the power steering system, and if it was low due to air being trapped in the system then most likely the noise would go away unless there was an actual issue with one of the components, like those that Lord lhcalam has suggested.
As far as my battery maintenance, I always clean the terminals and posts every oil change which runs about every 6 months on the daily driver. I also use the felt rings mentioned, I don’t know how much of an improvement that I can attest to, but checking every 6 months I rarely see any corrosion on the battery side of the wiring.
+1 on if there is any easy way to check the life of a battery, that didn’t come stamped.
voltage checks don’t help in letting me know how much life the battery has left, only if its good or not at the time
As far as my battery maintenance, I always clean the terminals and posts every oil change which runs about every 6 months on the daily driver. I also use the felt rings mentioned, I don’t know how much of an improvement that I can attest to, but checking every 6 months I rarely see any corrosion on the battery side of the wiring.
+1 on if there is any easy way to check the life of a battery, that didn’t come stamped.
voltage checks don’t help in letting me know how much life the battery has left, only if its good or not at the time
For right now this is just an update, as I currently have an idea what needs to taken care of just unsure where I am going to get the parts.
Yes you were right Eric, as I found out one of the few things that actually changed from my model year to the next (which is the only service manual I could find at the time I bought it) was the ABS System itself, the codes as well as the component locations. What the mechanic that I had taken it to called the control module was in fact the ABS ECU.
Well I found a used one online, as previously posted. I replaced it according to normal electronics procedures, (disconnecting battery — allowing it to re-integrate) and the ABS light was off, for about a day, before it came back on again.
After discovering the discrepancy in model years for this assembly, I finally found a good copy of the same year service manual for my car. I went through all of the voltage checks that it recommended, and everything except for the valve relay came up good at the ECU connector. However, once I get to the motor/relay box in the engine bay as the next step the readings were all over the charts, including giving me a different reading for the relays. I check the wiring diagrams and it turns out there are different colored wires in the wrong spot where they are supposed to be in the connector but its a factory part and doesn’t look like it was ripped into previously.
I finally had enough, and made an appointment with the dealer service shop, since they were the only one in town (that I know of) with the specific diagnostic tools. Came back to me as one bad wheel sensor, as well as an open circuit in the motor itself. While they were performing diag they also cut open some of the wiring shielding to check on that and it was all corroded from the inside, of which there were no apparent trouble symptoms from the connector terminations themselves.
I’m going to try and repair/replace the wiring before proceeding further with the motor, hoping that is why the ohm checks on the motor and relays are coming out funky in the first place. I’ve already got the correct wheel sensor on order from rockauto. So my question at this point is where is a good place to find replacement harnesses/wiring for dealer only parts that have already been discontinued, aside from the junkyard… where those parts might be just as bad?
Also, Eric I noticed on your ABS Codes page you were always looking for additions to the Honda codes that you currently have listed. From my service manuals I have the codes for 95-97 and 98-00 for the Avenger/Sebring/Eclipse/Talon models if you want them.
For right now this is just an update, as I currently have an idea what needs to taken care of just unsure where I am going to get the parts.
Yes you were right Eric, as I found out one of the few things that actually changed from my model year to the next (which is the only service manual I could find at the time I bought it) was the ABS System itself, the codes as well as the component locations. What the mechanic that I had taken it to called the control module was in fact the ABS ECU.
Well I found a used one online, as previously posted. I replaced it according to normal electronics procedures, (disconnecting battery — allowing it to re-integrate) and the ABS light was off, for about a day, before it came back on again.
After discovering the discrepancy in model years for this assembly, I finally found a good copy of the same year service manual for my car. I went through all of the voltage checks that it recommended, and everything except for the valve relay came up good at the ECU connector. However, once I get to the motor/relay box in the engine bay as the next step the readings were all over the charts, including giving me a different reading for the relays. I check the wiring diagrams and it turns out there are different colored wires in the wrong spot where they are supposed to be in the connector but its a factory part and doesn’t look like it was ripped into previously.
I finally had enough, and made an appointment with the dealer service shop, since they were the only one in town (that I know of) with the specific diagnostic tools. Came back to me as one bad wheel sensor, as well as an open circuit in the motor itself. While they were performing diag they also cut open some of the wiring shielding to check on that and it was all corroded from the inside, of which there were no apparent trouble symptoms from the connector terminations themselves.
I’m going to try and repair/replace the wiring before proceeding further with the motor, hoping that is why the ohm checks on the motor and relays are coming out funky in the first place. I’ve already got the correct wheel sensor on order from rockauto. So my question at this point is where is a good place to find replacement harnesses/wiring for dealer only parts that have already been discontinued, aside from the junkyard… where those parts might be just as bad?
Also, Eric I noticed on your ABS Codes page you were always looking for additions to the Honda codes that you currently have listed. From my service manuals I have the codes for 95-97 and 98-00 for the Avenger/Sebring/Eclipse/Talon models if you want them.
I’m not an expert, but wouldn’t you just bleed the brakes in that instance? How much did he get in there, and how many times have you had it running/driven since this happened? If you haven’t actually ran it since he did this and its just sitting in the reservoir you might be lucky and just have to pump it out manually. But one thing is that you don’t want the inconsistency of the fluids to remain (in actually driving it) for very long since its a hydraulic pressure system.