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Maybe vacuum hose leaks? Get under that hood and inspect your hoses as best you can. Keep it runnin!
Thank you. I don’t think there’s any refrigerant in the system to be purged so-to-speak, but I’m still worried. I still think there’s a correlation between transmission functionality and HVACs. Now I’m paranoid beyond reason.
No need to lift the vehicle while draining coolant unless your radiator doesn’t have a cock plug (forgot the name). Just drain the radiator, check your thermostat and replace (always a good time to replace if you’re draining coolant), then follow youtube steps. No need to drive the car after the new fluid comes in. I recommend the long lasting stuff..yellow bottle. Cannot for the life remember what it’s called and it’s probably discontinued, I think it’s Prestone high mileage maybe? 35k on my beater and her coolant is so light weight with a hint of green. Toyotas love that stuff.
I had the same issue on mine. Fortunately I was able to wire brush the caliper bracket to make braking worthwhile. Questions, did you put the clips in their respective places? And also, if you had to stop on a dime, could you? Rhetorical.
jonsey, exactly. Furthermore, if you drive past a dealership, pull a U-ey and ask their service department. There’s a lot of hot heads in there so don’t be discouraged.
I didnt read all of night’s suggestions, but maybe as simple as your radiator cap can be replaced. Look at your manual or just buy a cap thats 180psi or something (i’m probably wrong here). That is really strange tho… Your res tank’s cap popped off due to pressure and you know have a cat’s best lickable sugaryisqe liquid everywhere? Keep us updated if you’re telling the entire truth.
Just a guess, but maybe you have the exhaust system blues. It sound counterproductive, but next time you’re under your car, shake or move your exhaust around. It will (hopefully) cause a change in your harmonic vibrations and if you’re lucky, things will be more silent in the 2000RPM range. Or you need new fan shrouds.
4. my coolant is in good shape but you bring up a really good point because I’m honestly not too knowledgeable when it comes to line in integrity. I do have a slight leak somewhere, but most of my closed systems seem to be operating nicely. Good call for a check up on those pipes. Are they exclusively in the front or do I need to dive deeper?
Most automatic trans cars have a latency period before engagement, especially when cold. Try laying off the throttle and brake pedal while shifting to drive, then bitch for 5 minutes while your car heats up. Your motor mounts might be ready for replacement also. Ten dollars, you don’t respond more than twice.
Aw darn, you shouldn’t have wasted your money bringing it in. No one mentioned any leaks and it sounded like you were worried that you didn’t fill accordingly. I’m more interested in what kind of coolant you used because shops and dealerships will recommend their own. Sounds like you did everything right without details –> thermostat replaced –> radiator cap replaced. Most systems will ‘burp’ themselves at operating temperature, then you can add more fluid. This is a pertinent subject now that we’re into the late spring, early summer season.
It’s really silly, but inspecting the brake dust shield’s shape might be worth it. At slow speeds, something as simple as plates like I mentioned can be rubbing against the rotor and freak ya out! Buying used cars is no picnic. Good luck!
’98 Jag, nice. I’ve never heard of an inertia switch until now…maybe thought it was the distributor causing the problem. Great job figuring it out. Hopefully no electrical or more complex underlying issues are causing the hiccup.
It’s hard these days to buy a ‘pure’ conventional oil, but I wouldn’t worry for a while if you have a log. If your vehicle calls for synthetic, and you plan to keep it past 150k, or dust the vehicle next to you on an onramp, then switching to a mostly man-made synthetic is the way to go for the best engine torque and warranty. I’m talking out of my buttocks.